Certainly making that distinction a part of the discussion at the outset would have set the course of conversation on a narrower track, but it wasn't so it didn't. So now we're here, discussing both at once without much distinction. We'll survive.bugbear":2ytzdu4f said:Agreed - but then it's common for the long-term cheapest solution to have higher capital costs, in many spheres of life.ED65":2ytzdu4f said:It can work really well but the standard objection is that while it's initially cheap over time you end up spending more than if you'd opted for oilstones, waterstones or diamond plates. Given a long enough timeframe abrasives will always work out to be the most expensive option, except possibly when compared to something like a Tormek :lol:
One might argue that your question should have specified wether cheapest was in terms of capital cost or "long term" running cost.
I teach sharpening at the local woodcraft store. Next week I have a student coming in who is starting from pretty much nothing. I want to bring her a range of stuff to try out. I have no idea her financial situation, but i doubt she'll want to drop hundreds of dollars on stones just starting out, nor would i advise her to. What I'll likely bring in:
*norton india medium, fine, chr.ox strop
*dmt extra coarse(250 ish), 600, 1200, chr.ox strop
*norton and king waterstones, i think 4 grits, chr.ox strop
*Soft ark, lilywhite ark, trans white, surgical black, extra fine spyderco ceramic
As a range of systems, roughly ascending cost. I suppose i should bring sandpaper on glass also, but i probably won't.