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As above, these (shown in the OP) aren't really substantial enough. If you want one on a budget, then the Lumberjack versions are similar but cheaper. I bought one and added some ply under the thin Beachwood top to thicken it up (drilling the dog holes through) and stiffened it by screwing a ply back to it. All for less than the cost of either of the above. It's done me proud for a fair few years. Vice is rubbish but this can be replaced.

The one built by imageel above is spot on, lovely bit of work. Personally, I like to leave a lip all round the worktop which helps when clamping work.
Thanks for pointing that out, decided to take advantage of the ebay/nectar Power Hour promo and take a punt on it.
 
I think a bench needs to be made to fit each person, those benches are far too low for me so would need modifying anyway. I say build your own.

Ollie
 
I think a bench needs to be made to fit each person, those benches are far too low for me so would need modifying anyway. I say build your own.

Ollie
I have done several times now, getting better with (almost) each attempt however, for the 'new' workshop, I fancied something a bit more polished. Not entirely convinced any of those referenced in this thread will have that much polish about them but I had so many nectar points burning a whole in my digital pocket that actual cost to me is less than two sheets of B&Q plywood would be.
 
I think a bench needs to be made to fit each person, those benches are far too low for me so would need modifying anyway. I say build your own.

Ollie
Yes, quite true

Luckily, the lumberjack one with mods came to 820mm tall which suits me perfectly otherwise I'd have built my own. My main assembly bench is 820mm tall as is by pure coincidence, my cabinet saw table top. Trouble presently is with some benches you'd struggle to buy the timber for what they produce them for and the quality ones are a frightening cost as in several thousand, but that's I guess what any of us would charge if making one to those standards.

Whatever you buy it's worth making up a square worktop extension on castors which is th same height. I recently made one with substantial braked castors for a cost of around £120 all in and it's been invaluable. Serves as an extension to the main assembly bench when I need to vacuum press veneer large panels, or to help clamp lonf work pieces up to alongsie the main bench or as an infeed table for my table saw. When not in use it slots neatly in beside my smaller workbench and acts as additional tool storage.

Shown here in the corner of my workshop

IMG_0384.jpg
 
Anyone familiar with the above bench? would the similar looking Axminster one at nearly twice the price be that much better?
Well, one is 30 kg, another is 44 kg.

I bought something similar, namely Sjöbergs Junior/Senior workbench, for my kids (although they apparently do not need it nor use it, ahh).

Vices are not anything special and rather basic, compared to Veritas dual screw that I have on my bench that I built myself.
That was main reason for me to buy and not to build - to get vices.
After playing with it a little I wouldn't buy it again.
Instead I would choose some great vice and build the rest myself.
Would also cost more then.

It is stable enough, doesn't feel flimsy or shaky.
It has a shelf underneath that you can load with some weight to make it even more stable.
And you can attach some rubber pads to the legs so it doesn't slide.

AXMINSTER looks better than SIP.
Also Sjöbergs Junior looks better than SIP.
In my opinion.
 
Yes, quite true

Luckily, the lumberjack one with mods came to 820mm tall which suits me perfectly otherwise I'd have built my own. My main assembly bench is 820mm tall as is by pure coincidence, my cabinet saw table top. Trouble presently is with some benches you'd struggle to buy the timber for what they produce them for and the quality ones are a frightening cost as in several thousand, but that's I guess what any of us would charge if making one to those standards.

Whatever you buy it's worth making up a square worktop extension on castors which is th same height. I recently made one with substantial braked castors for a cost of around £120 all in and it's been invaluable. Serves as an extension to the main assembly bench when I need to vacuum press veneer large panels, or to help clamp lonf work pieces up to alongsie the main bench or as an infeed table for my table saw. When not in use it slots neatly in beside my smaller workbench and acts as additional tool storage.

Shown here in the corner of my workshop

View attachment 153417
I like the idea of the extension cabinet, could house a router in that and use the dog holes to locate my Incra LS positioner
 
Well, one is 30 kg, another is 44 kg.

I bought something similar, namely Sjöbergs Junior/Senior workbench, for my kids (although they apparently do not need it nor use it, ahh).

Vices are not anything special and rather basic, compared to Veritas dual screw that I have on my bench that I built myself.
That was main reason for me to buy and not to build - to get vices.
After playing with it a little I wouldn't buy it again.
Instead I would choose some great vice and build the rest myself.
Would also cost more then.

It is stable enough, doesn't feel flimsy or shaky.
It has a shelf underneath that you can load with some weight to make it even more stable.
And you can attach some rubber pads to the legs so it doesn't slide.

AXMINSTER looks better than SIP.
Also Sjöbergs Junior looks better than SIP.
In my opinion.
Thanks for that
 
If timber alone cost £290 in 2019, I wonder how much that figure would be now?
I paid £290 back in Dec 2022, not sure where you got 2019 from?

Bought a bit more than needed - delivery too. I'm not a trade's person so paid whatever price they had.
 
Bolt your bench top to a wall.

This is like adding a turbocharger to a motor.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That would be fine in a large workshop or one with little else in it but within he limitations of a typical UK sized single-car garage, whether I like to or not, I am constantly shifting things around to either use them or get access to something else that they're in the way of!

Then the next best is to attach the bench top to the wall with hinges so it can fold down, and use legs that fold up with it.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Bolt your bench top to a wall.

This is like adding a turbocharger to a motor.
Utterly!! My slightly cheap Sjoberg's derivitive, bolted to the garage wall, plus the 4" pitch pine top I made for it = Rock of Gibralter steady!

Make sure your bolting is two (vertically spaced apart) connections per leg. This emulates fastening a sheet of ply on the back of the frame to prevent "racking". Just two bolts, one at each leg frame, CAN allow some twisting movement, even with a masonry wall as the anchor.
 
Sorry I’m a bit late to the thread, I built my first workbench in about 1974. Fine Woodworking magazine was brand new and I was studying design at the university. I had a photo in a catalog of a German joiners bench and purchased a pile of hard (sugar) maple. The timber was 16/4, all rough 4 inches thick. The vise hardware came from the same catalog, Woodcraft Supply of Woburn Mass. I used the bench for twenty years, knocked it apart and rebuilt it.

24496A33-21EE-4E04-B24B-3F9A4462370F.jpeg
24496A33-21EE-4E04-B24B-3F9A4462370F.jpeg
 
SAM_4060.JPG


There's a lot to be said for a solid freestanding base which won't rack, should materials for a top not crop up.
might as well post mine, which has proved to be super versatile, having a floating top.

Nice and all the joinery aspect of things, well not this bench...haha,
but it doesn't lend itself to altercations should one change tack down the road.
(a thicker top would be nice but would make the bench too high)

I suggest using knock down hardware, M10 in this case was good.
Some have brought up needing to cinch down these as they come loose....never had to do such a
thing with this bench.

Space for feet underneath, two pair of strechers for rigidity, and space for a large clamp to fit under,
will likely give one very very little choice to do much designing,
especially if wanting a thicker top.
Two "solid core" doors, like fire doors for example would provide plenty of thickness,
or whatever, might need to be shimmed/choked up to stop it sagging as these doors are heavy, would be an instant solution.


I'd not be dissuaded from using steel either.

Once again just an opinion as I was without enough timber to make a top at the time,
but had lots of shorter lengths.
Was planning on having a taller bench, but plonked this lab top on it one day,
and by chance turned out to be perfect planing height, which is the most important task for me,
not really wanting a PT for multiple reasons.

SAM_6842.JPG
Someday, I'm likely going to lop an inch off the handles on a pair of large f-clamps,(middle isle inliddles) so they fit underneath.
SAM_6721.JPG


ps Very nice bench John.

All the best
Tom
 
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