I'd want something a little more even than OSB. It's OK for roofing and possibly timber framing but not a workbench.
Workbench top wood selection
- Thread starter tibi
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Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Best off the shelf option could be a fire door - plain paint grade laminated ply. Available up to 8ft long. Dense and heavy.
Jameshow
Established Member
I was joking!!!
Jameshow
Established Member
I would love to reference off mine but that would mean clearing it!!
I'd be afraid to actually use the workbench for fear of accidentally scratching or marking the surface if I was using pear or walnut!
However, if your pockets are deep enough go for pear, but not the boards you showed pictures of as they have way too much sapwood (as pointed out by a previous poster).
I wish I was! My temporary bench is 4 years old, it now even has a leg vice. The positive is that I've no qualms about sawing into it, screwing a new stop/jig to it, spilling stuff on it.
johnnyb
Established Member
why is it better to not have a stable flat bench? one that is constantly moving is and always will be a complete pain. it's even more important to have a flat assembly table. thing glued will still need checking for wind but a washer under one clamp leg can sort it. seriously some tropical woods and walnut would only need flattening once....that's it then... for ever.amen
Jameshow
Established Member
Mine is 18mm softwood plywood!I wish I was! My temporary bench is 4 years old, it now even has a leg vice. The positive is that I've no qualms about sawing into it, screwing a new stop/jig to it, spilling stuff on it.
I'm planning on putting a layer of 2x6 on top and an apron on it this weekend.
Go with beech. Superb wood for workbenches (and nice to work with too) and you can easily get 50mm + thickness
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
The amount of movement in a beech bench top would be negligible as long as it was dry to start with. Wouldn't be a case of constant movement at all, as long as the bench itself was structurally sound, though of course you would make an effort to keep it reasonably flat!
Beech is highly favoured for bench tops but you perhaps wouldn't use it for panel doors.
Assembly table a good idea if you have the space but not many small workshops will have one as there are plenty of ways of keeping things out of wind, generally by sighting with winding sticks, straight edges etc. You'd have to check your assembly table too and adjust accordingly.
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Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Mine's Southern yellow pine and I keep it flat because I like having it flat and it's easier to build flat stuff on a flat bench.
YMMV however.
YMMV however.
I have a beech top on mine. If it gets dented/marked badly or even becomes uneven I put my no 7 to work all over it and flatten by hand.Beech is ideal and first choice if available IMHO.
Stability doesn't come into it with a workbench (within reason - has to be dry beech) but a lot of people have picked up fantasy woodwork nonsense about bench tops as "reference surfaces" - best ignored! .
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
TBH I've never "flattened" mine except when I first made it about 40 years ago, though I do occasionally go over it to remove any bumps, glue/paint blobs etc. It's the sticking up bits which cause a prob and can mark a workpiece, the dents don't matter.I have a beech top on mine. If it gets dented/marked badly or even becomes uneven I put my no 7 to work all over it and flatten by hand.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/large-bench-with-vice-and-dowel-plate-reduced.143340/
To conclude this topic, here is the picture of 70 mm thick oak slabs that I have bought for my workbench top and chop.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Be prepared for them to cup, just saying.
My builders merchant has sawn 12x2” pine which looks good and not too expensive with a little top planing
I was going to glue and dowel two pieces together but I only have one long sash clamp
was thinking of screwing a batten on both ends while the glue dries and sash clamping the middle- would that work?
my other thought was a ply backing underneath which I could screw and glue to the pine planks and maybe stop some cupping of the cheap wood
Thinking of a 6ft long bench but narrow bench and fed up with my bouncy plywood bench that is too low on desk legs - well - when I built it I wasn’t doing woodwork just a bit of everything
I was going to glue and dowel two pieces together but I only have one long sash clamp
was thinking of screwing a batten on both ends while the glue dries and sash clamping the middle- would that work?
my other thought was a ply backing underneath which I could screw and glue to the pine planks and maybe stop some cupping of the cheap wood
Thinking of a 6ft long bench but narrow bench and fed up with my bouncy plywood bench that is too low on desk legs - well - when I built it I wasn’t doing woodwork just a bit of everything
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
My new bench is 6ft long and narrow.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...st-thing-you-made.81798/page-456#post-1672438Your 12" boards would do for the aprons but you'd need thicker stiff for the top. Would it work to laminate two 12" boards to make one 12x4" piece? Possibly.
I need 4” thick? Yes I suppose I do for sturdiness when chisellingMy new bench is 6ft long and narrow.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...st-thing-you-made.81798/page-456#post-1672438Your 12" boards would do for the aprons but you'd need thicker stiff for the top. Would it work to laminate two 12" boards to make one 12x4" piece? Possibly.
need some sturdy legs under that too for support
Jameshow
Established Member
I think 2" will be fine?
Diagonal bracing is more important imo.
johnnyb
Established Member
4 inch thick seems a bit chunky. 2 or 3 should be fine . 12 by 2 will be spruce like scaffold boards. 9 by 2 redwood would be a lot better. especially for hand planing. quebec yellow pine is soft but lovely and stable and light big knots though.
