Solid Wood Edgebanding on MDF Workbench Top

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supertom44

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I'm currently building a Rob Cosman workbench, one of the additions he has made is to add a solid wood edgebanding to protect the mdf edges.

He uses torrefied wood to eliminate and movement and glues it directly to the mdf edges.

The top is made up of 3 1 inch layers of mdf glued together.

I have some sapele that's 100mm wide and 20mm thick, however as it's not stabalised I'm concerned with it moving and causing issues with the top.

Would glueing the edgebanding to only the top most layer of mdf, be sufficient and prevent any issues futher down the line?

Attached an image of the mdf top, note the top is currently upside down, hence the holes.
PXL_20230911_144904195.jpg

Thanks.
 
Torrified wood (thermally modified) is brittle, I wouldn't use it as edge banding/protection. That's just me.
I have used DF and Birch for banding around MDF tops and it's just fine, movement is minimal.
 
There is minimal change in length during drying so you shouldnt have any issuses. I would biscuit or loose tongue the edging to the MDF. Leave it very slightly proud of the MDF and then plane back carefully once your glue has set
 
I was considering using domino's on either the middle layer or bottom layer of mdf, wanna avoid the top layer just in case there is any swelling or anything.
 
I was considering using domino's on either the middle layer or bottom layer of mdf, wanna avoid the top layer just in case there is any swelling or anything.
If you domino into the top layer though any movement will be mainly downwards where it won't make much difference?

Dominos are quite loose iirc.
 
If you domino into the top layer though any movement will be mainly downwards where it won't make much difference?

Dominos are quite loose iirc.
That's a good point.
I got some off cuts from the top so I can do a test to see if it causes any issues, I don't imagine it will. Just a bit paranoid of runining the top ha.
 
The edge banding is sacrificial, I screw mine in place for replacement if necessary.
If you use some type of floating tenon I wouldn't glue it, just use it for alignment/strength, then screw.
Once you glue it on, it becomes more or less permanent.
just suggestions, it's your choice
 
Just make sure its dry and glue it on, or even use screws. Might as well domino it if you have one.
If you are going all the way around the MDF part then fit the short "end" pieces inside the longer "face" pieces but don`t fix / glue the edgeing to itself at the corners. This way if it does move it wont break apart.

Ollie
 
Just make sure its dry and glue it on, or even use screws. Might as well domino it if you have one.
If you are going all the way around the MDF part then fit the short "end" pieces inside the longer "face" pieces but don`t fix / glue the edgeing to itself at the corners. This way if it does move it wont break apart.

Ollie
Thanks for the suggestion, I was going to put the smaller bits between longer ones anyway as the visible end will be covered by vice.
Didn't think about not glueing it to itself at the corners, thanks.

I've decided to go with dominos and glue in top layer.

Set the depth of domino to 25mm for the top, then set it to 28mm for the edgebanding so it protruded above the top.
Tomorrow I'll either plane it flush or use a flush trim bit in my router.
 
I built one of these about 15 years ago and still have it. I just screwed on the edges with dry biscuits to help alignment.
I varnished the top to help the wear.
The only problem I had was a vice I attached that caused a section to sag.
 

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