Wood turning tool sharper

[Fred1980]

What does everyone use to get there tools razor sharp

 

[marcros]

I use a proedge. It may or may not get them any sharper than alternative methods, but in my opinion it gets them sharp enough and the learning curve to using it is virtually zero.

There are certainly cheaper options out there and no shortage of people who have managed perfectly well without one.

 

[sneggysteve]

+1 Proedge
Can touch up all the tools you have used after each turning session in a few minutes

 

[loftyhermes]

Record 6" grinder with a white and a ruby wheel works for me.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I would try to find someone with a ProEdge to try before spending the money - I know good turners who swear by them but I also know good turners who don't like them because they're used to hollow grinds.

 

[Dalboy]

I use a wide wheeled grinder and sharpen free hand not many people do now as they say it is quicker but I can sharpen a gauge quicker than many can using a pro edge but the learning curve is a bit longer to grind freehand.
Turning tools need to be sharp but not razor sharp unlike carpenters tools where razor sharp is needed in many cases as the edge is soon removed within seconds, in some cases the only ones I have razor sharp are my skew type chisels
The choice is your sometimes this can be governed by how much you want to spend.
You can buy jigs to go onto a standard grinder which will make it easier as beginner to sharpening. Keep a pot of water next to the grinder to cool the steel and don't hold it on the wheel or belt for too long

 

[CHJ]

What does everyone use to get there tools razor sharp

Don't know your turning experience, but if you are new to the pleasure don't get too embroiled in the 'razor sharp' edge discussed in flatwork circles.

Turning involves wood cutting speeds possibly in factors of one hundred times that of hand cabinet work and invariably using less than compliant wood.

Hence exotic cutting edges are removed in a fraction of a second in anything other than most 'perfectionist' finishing cuts.

A sharp robust edge is what is needed, and for most turners a consistent repeatable profile that meets their turning style. ( 120 grade grit is about the workhorse level)

It's very difficult to refine your cutting technique if you don't have the same profile on the tool every time you sharpen it.

I personally started with good quality grinding wheels on cheap grinders,(they are still going strong after 13+ yrs), recently invested in a Pro-edge.

The latter is the easiest overall for convenience and repeatability but has not made the grinders redundant, just means they remain set up for specific tasks where they avoid changing jigs, tool rests etc.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Keep a pot of water next to the grinder to cool the steel ...

Or don't, if it's HSS.

 

[Lazurus]

Creusen slow speed grinder with wide white wheels, couples with a sorby fingernail jig, a few seconds and gouges are keen to go.... tried various other methods over the years but this is quick, efficient and easy to repeat grinds.

 

[Trevanion]

When I started I didn't have a grinder so I used a couple of oil stones. Spent more time sharpening than turning!

Makes me appreciate the grinder everytime I use it.

I then fitted out the grinder with the Tormek Jigs on the cheap.

Makes me appreciate it even more!

 

[J-G]

Keep a pot of water next to the grinder to cool the steel ...

Or don't, if it's HSS.

Can't let that statement go unchallenged!

Do keep a pot of water available whatever material the tools are made from. Just do not ever get the tool too hot - certainly never to glow red - dunk the tool after every visit to the wheel and don't let the tool 'linger'.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'll wait for someone else to challenge that. Everything I've ever read and very pro I 've ever spoken to has said never quench HHS.

 

[Lazurus]

Never used water for my tools and never has an issue with heat build up as not on the grinder long enough when sharpening, it is literally a few seconds then beck to the lathe..........

 

[TopCat 32]

Pro edge for me, i was heading the tormek way, so glad i didn't, i know some experienced turners will say learn to sharpen freehand, and i can only look and wonder how they do it, and admire there skill, but truth is i would rather be turning than learning sharpening, and the pro edge is nearly foolproof

 

[Rorschach]

No need to quench HSS or carbide, may even be detrimental. I only dunk mine so it doesn't burn my fingers.

 

[Robbo3]

I agree that everything that I've read or been told about HSS is not to cool with water as it introduces micro cracks in the metal - something to do with thermal shock?. Whether these are detrimental & in what way wasn't stated.
If your sharpening rather than re-profiling then the tool shouldn't get that hot anyway. So if you don't get the tool hot it won't need cooling.

 

[Jacob]

Sand paper on a plywood disc on the outboard end will do almost everything at very little cost.
MDF or ply disc with autosol or similar will polish, edge of disc can be shaped for inside edge of gouges.
There's a lot to be said for keeping it simple, with trial and error with DIY bits n bobs. You may find you don't need much else.

 

[mpcpba]

I have settled on a Sorby Pro edge like a few others who have posted. I am a firm convert to this system and have got a few other fellow turners to go that way too. It is simple and angles and grinds are totally repeatable. You can grind down a tradtional bowl gouge grind to a fingernail grind (if you follow the Sorby guidance) easily or easily and very quickly just touch up your tools and gte back to the turning. The different belt grades and jigs also mean that you can do carving tools and all other blade types too.
But I didnt get there easily
I started off with Record Power 6" white wheel grinder with an ebay 'wolverine copy' jig system. I found the jig system cumbersome and awkward so sold the jig and bought a second hand sorby 'universal jig' system . This proved to be very fiddly in daily usage albeit it was much more compact. Swapping the jig around between sharpening skews and gouges for me was just too fiddly.And it was a faff to get the angles the same for skews despite having made some angle templates.
I almost bought the woodcut jig at that point. And if I had I doubt I would have gone to the pro edge as my observation of others using it is that it does what you need to make the best out of a bench grinder in all regards. Quick, repeatable and compact and uses the standard white wheel grinder that is most people's entry to sharpening.
I personally would steer away from the wet very slow speed wheel systems. You will definitely be able to (eventually) get beautiful edges to all your tools that you can admire and show off to your friends but you would never want to reprofile a tool using one- just too slow. I have used them and they are wonderful for carving tools amd carbon steel blades to aboid any chance of overheating - but just don't see them as an all round turners tool. And expensive too!
So if you are a die hard 'hollow grind is best' then go the woodcut jig way with a medium speed white wheel bench grinder and you will not need to look further plus you will find many others who can help and advise on using such a set up. If you want a simple life, can afford a little bit more and haven't already got a bench grinder then Sorby Pro Edge all day long for me.

 

[paulm]

Pro Edge all day long for me too

My torment was sold shortly after to someone with a lot more patience than me who didn't mind water all over his workshop !

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[paulm]

Tormek not torment although quite apt !!!

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