Which dust extractor for planer/thicknesser

[cgarry]

I have just finished assembling my new Metabo HC260C P/T and is has become apparent that my little Wickes wet and dry vacuum is probably not up to the job of extracting the waste from it. According to the HC260C manual, it has a suction port with a diameter of 100mm and requires an air flow volume of at least 550 m3/h.

So could somebody recommend a suitable extractor for use with my HC260C? Since starting this hobby I seem to be hemorrhaging money so something cheap would be nice!

Cheers,
Chris

 

[John15]

Axminster have quite a good chip extractor, their AWEDE2 for £175. I've got this model and have it permanently hooked up to my P/T -it does OK with just the occasional build-up of chips.

Cheers,

John

 

[SPSlick]

I use a 3hp vax upright connected to a rutlands cyclone that does the job on a 10" axminster p/t. £40 for the cyclone and another £40 for the vax from a local auction.

 

[cgarry]

Thanks for the responses guys, just the information I was looking for.

 

[Ollie78]

I have a Record power DX5000 which is great. It uses cheap plastic bags which I re use many times and it is good for fine dust too as it has a fleece filter paper filters and cartridge filters. Also it has 2 motors and is very powerful.

It is quite loud but then so is the planer.

Ollie

 

[Harbo]

+1 for the Record DX5000. I use one bag inside the other to prevent splittage - the suction is so powerful.

 

[deema]

If possible stick the dust extractor outside. A simple lean to shelter is a great place to hide the thing. Two reasons,

1. You can extract anything without worrying about the filter size. I.e MDF this takes down the cost of the unit.
2. It's a lot quiter inside your workshop and less dusty.

The only down side is that it extract the warm air in winter.

 

[Harbo]

That's not a problem - no heating in mine.

Rod

 

[cgarry]

In the end I bought the DK6683 chip and dust extractor from Rutlands:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... tor+dk6683

It is a little less powerful than the Axminster AWEDE2 model suggested, but is only £99 (on special offer) compared to £175 for the AWEDE2. As it turns out is works perfectly with my p/t, easily collecting the woodchips without any clogging issues so far. I would not want to use it as a dust extractor in my workshop though, I think fine dust would make it through the cloth filter bag.

If possible stick the dust extractor outside. A simple lean to shelter is a great place to hide the thing. Two reasons,

1. You can extract anything without worrying about the filter size. I.e MDF this takes down the cost of the unit.
2. It's a lot quiter inside your workshop and less dusty.

The only down side is that it extract the warm air in winter.

Actually because I am so tight on space I do wheel the extractor outside in order to use it. I had not realised that there were benefits other than freeing up space by doing this but obviously there are.

 

[Selwyn]

If you have the extractor in an outside space how do you turn it on via the nvr switch? do you just wire it in straight to a plug in the workshop?

 

[Sparkie]

Hi all. First post here, please go easy on me.

With regard to the DK6683, I’m wondering if I can improve it.
I use it on a JET JWP-12 thicknesser, (brilliant piece of kit BTW). What I do find though is that the thing clogs very very quickly, indeed, (the extractor that is).
Now looking closely, (I’ve not dismantled the thing completely yet), it seems that as chips are quite often actually miniature probably 30mm strips of wood probably 2mm wide and of minimal thickness that they catch at the point indicated in the attached.

I was thinking of seeing if I could remove that piece of metal.

Comments please?

 

[AJB Temple]

As others have pointed out in the past, it would be extremely silly to remove that piece of cross shaped metal as then you might be temped to shove your arm down the tube. So no one would ever recommend that. Even though this is exactly what everyone does.

I seem to recall reading it is there to comply with EU rules. One might conclude that it is not a fantastic piece of design.

Just don't poke you fingers where they are not supposed to go ;-)

 

[Sparkie]

As others have pointed out in the past, it would be extremely silly to remove that piece of cross shaped metal as then you might be temped to shove your arm down the tube. So no one would ever recommend that. Even though this is exactly what everyone does.

I seem to recall reading it is there to comply with EU rules. One might conclude that it is not a fantastic piece of design.

Just don't poke you fingers where they are not supposed to go ;-)

Thanks for that. I’ll have to remove it if I don’t want to be slowed down by significant amounts. Had a good visual and I did put my hand in, (whilst unplugged), and it didn’t appear to be anything structural.

 

[DennisCA]

That's a real dumb design, I would remove the cross and replace it with something that has the same function but not the same overinflated surface area.

 

[Sparkie]

That's a real dumb design, I would remove the cross and replace it with something that has the same function but not the same overinflated surface area.

But the question is what?
It can’t be a mesh or filter type insert. It would clog immediately. Also if it is an EU requirement it needs to be such that it leaves an aperture small enough that you can't get your hand in.
If possible, I’d make the intake like a curved tube. Long and curved enough, (whilst maintaining minimal bend radius), that it doesn’t obstruct airflow but also doesn’t allow an arm in.

 

[DennisCA]

I was thinking a cross design or a tri star shape. But instead of having the flat area in the path of the air stream and creating a big blockage like that, i was thinking you'd rotate the pieces so they where in line with the air stream and presented a minimal profile.

 

[DennisCA]

Here's a rough idea of what i mean

 

[Sparkie]

Here's a rough idea of what i mean

Looks very fancy that.

 

[tomatwark]

Just put a piece of solid pipe on that is longer than your forearm, then the flexi hose.

Ideally however if you can get rid of the flexi except where it joins the machine as it is reducing the air flow anyway.

 

[Sparkie]

Just put a piece of solid pipe on that is longer than your forearm, then the flexi hose.

Ideally however if you can get rid of the flexi except where it joins the machine as it is reducing the air flow anyway.

Aha. I see. Will give it some thought.

Thx.