What did you do in your workshop today ?

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Home alone for the week so getting some work done on my bench. Slow progress but very rewarding. That Paul Sellers makes it look mighty easy on YouTube... (hammer)

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Sold a bench and a bird table and filled that space with a new pile of wood ...
 
MrTeroo":2uba724j said:
Nice tidy mortice.

Keep the photo's coming?

:D

Your wish is my command.

The bench top is currently outside - the only space big enough for it to sit. It's also raining. Hopefully that tarpaulin will hold up...
 
El Barto":1c3xlscg said:
Home alone for the week so getting some work done on my bench. Slow progress but very rewarding. That Paul Sellers makes it look mighty easy on YouTube... (hammer)

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looking good man! =D>

that mortise is nice and clean, wait until you plane the bench top :lol:

the feeling you get when you put it together and use it for the first time is awesome

looking forward to seeing more
 
Thanks dudes. Nearly finished cutting the mortises now. On that note, the cuts on a couple (but not all) of them have not met in the middle and I'm left with ridges that need to be pared. Why is that, what causes it? Is it my technique? Like I said it's only happened on two of them and if nothing else I'd like to know why it happens and how I can avoid it.

I should note that all my marking up appears to be correct, using the gauge from the same face etc.
 
El Barto":2j8at5ea said:
Nearly finished cutting the mortises now. On that note, the cuts on a couple (but not all) of them have not met in the middle and I'm left with ridges that need to be pared. Why is that, what causes it? Is it my technique? Like I said it's only happened on two of them and if nothing else I'd like to know why it happens and how I can avoid it.

Turn that around and look at it another way.

You've never done any of this before, and yet you've managed to chop at least some through-mortices in thick stock that didn't have any ridge where they met.

That's a superb accomplishment!
 
El Barto":1dzj4zcy said:
Thanks dudes. Nearly finished cutting the mortises now. On that note, the cuts on a couple (but not all) of them have not met in the middle and I'm left with ridges that need to be pared. Why is that, what causes it? Is it my technique? Like I said it's only happened on two of them and if nothing else I'd like to know why it happens and how I can avoid it.

I should note that all my marking up appears to be correct, using the gauge from the same face etc.

that happened to me as well, it's nothing to worry about, as you have seen mine turned out just fine, when you get to rehearsal then glue-up you should find it's not a problem.
 
Cheers fellas. A few more pictures here (mod please let me know if you want to move this to a dedicated build thread or something).

I got all the mortises cut - glad that's over. Having tried Paul Sellers' method for chopping mortises (note: I'm calling it his method for the sake of this post; I'm sure he didn't invent it) and it just wasn't/isn't working for me. Perhaps I need more practice with it but I feel much more comfortable cutting mortises the way I originally learnt. It's definitely not as efficient as Paul's but I feel like I have more control overall with what I'm removing.

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This is as far as I got today - one tenon into one mortise. There are gaps but I'll take it for the first one. I tried a couple of different methods for cutting the tenon; safe to say chiseling away the waste is not my preferred choice.

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Finally, I took delivery of this rather disheveled Record 5 1/2. There's a bit more heavy rust than the photo shows but it should clean up nicely.

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Cheers guys. MrTeroo, thanks for the pic. The one joint is pretty snug at the moment so hopefully the rest will follow suit.
 
Got a bit more done today but not as much as I'd hoped. An oversight on my part was getting stock with rounded edges, I'm not sure why I did that, I probably told myself I could plane them out. Anyway, when it came to glueing up the aprons it was clear that although the roundovers looked small individually, once pieced together they'd take forever to plane out and just dung in general. So back to the timber yard for some planed pine and wow what a difference it makes to work with! I couldn't believe it. It just feels nicer. So apron number one is glued up - I decided to do them individually, too much stress clamping them both in one (wishing now I had more clamps). There are some ridges most of the way along the apron but only by a millimetre or so, hopefully they'll plane out good. There is definitely a lot of twist but hopefully that shouldn't be too bad to plane out (HA). This apron also looks the worse of the two, fingers crossed.

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I'm slightly annoyed that I've got that rounded rubbish on the underside of my bench top. I was tempted today to completely redo it with planed pine but as it's only on the bottom and won't really be seen it seems like an unnecessary expense. Live and learn.
 
You can never have too many clamps. Keep telling my OH that as its near Chistmas, but think it fell on deaf ears.

Mike
 
nice to see more progress with the bench, it was a wise idea doing the aprons separately, one thing I found from my experience which goes against what paul sellers says, is don't plane the sides/edges of the apron pieces, with PAR pine, that way you are guaranteeing that it's dead square, the problem I had was planing a surface dead square without a workbench was close to impossible, and it translated to twist when you add all 4 slightly out of square surfaces together, might sound obvious but I was surprised how much this affected things.
 
Bart. Just pointing out that taking woodworking advice from me is like paying double for a parachuting course run by a manic depressive.
That said. One option for cramps on the relative cheap is cramp heads if you haven't seen them. Paramo or Record are far better quality (about £15 a pair ebay prices) than the ones sold by Rutlands, but the Rutlands will work . Think they were designed for timber tbh but 3 or 4mm box steel is fairly cheap and it doesn't budge.
There's some info here plus some pro tips by people who actually know what they are about on fettling them.
clamp-choices-t93528-15.html
You can see the difference in quality from the pic. Good luck and start a bench WIP fergawdsake man.
 
Bm101":2sxaj5j3 said:
Bart. Just pointing out that taking woodworking advice from me is like paying double for a parachuting course run by a manic depressive.
That said. One option for cramps on the relative cheap is cramp heads if you haven't seen them. Paramo or Record are far better quality (about £15 a pair ebay prices) than the ones sold by Rutlands, but the Rutlands will work . Think they were designed for timber tbh but 3 or 4mm box steel is fairly cheap and it doesn't budge.
There's some info here plus some pro tips by people who actually know what they are about on fettling them.
clamp-choices-t93528-15.html
You can see the difference in quality from the pic. Good luck and start a bench WIP fergawdsake man.

That is a v useful link thanks matey. And roger on the wip thread! (homer)
 
Been testing some finishes for the crib. Top to bottom, shellac on walnut, same shellac on ash (ugh, not doing that), osmo clear thin wax on ash, milk paint on poplar (this will be the inside of the drawer, just for laughs). Goes on all vibrant and lovely:

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Then dries to a fairly dull look:

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But some osmo over the second coat of milk paint does bring it back up somewhat. And hell, it'll be the inside of a drawer.

BTW, anyone have any tips for applying different finishes to different parts of the same assembly? Asking on behalf of a complete amateur.

Oh, and got the back panel of the base of the crib almost finished.

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My first ever bandsaw box has just had its first coat of danish oil. Last minute Christmas present for my niece. Made from a chunk of ash sandwiched by oak and a cherry front & back (all Welsh/local). Flocking the drawers should be interesting!

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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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