Not chalk and cheese, but 'different'.Be interesting to see what you think of them compared.
They seem the best to me from the few I've tried.
Nevertheless are more durable in terms of abuse, and you won't be too miffed even if you couldn't buy just the one.
Have you noticed the hardness being consistent throughout Dave?
Keep her lit!
I actually have one of those, bought donkey’s years ago by my father for cutting Formica. It takes standard 12” blades.Having written the piece, I can confirm that the saw shown is not included, sorry. Reason? A) I don't think I've ever used one; B) I don't own one; C) though I was (vaguely) aware of their existence, I'd forgotten all about them when writing the piece. Sorry.
P.S. I don't know what size blade they take - I THOUGHT the "standard" 12 inch but I could well be wrong.
The blade fixing at the handle end pivots about the upper rivet, and is locked in place with a knurled screw. You can’t put much tension on the blade, as the saw plate then bends. Not sure how effective it would be for Dave’s application, but it works well for long cuts in sheet materia.Good point about tensioning them! As pointed out, you want a straight line, you need a well tensioned saw!
I do wonder what the two upper ?rivets? are all about... though I can't see how they could be used to tension the blade.
Yeah, AND you'd only need to smooth file the cut endS afterwards - you ARE cutting BOTH ends to get an accurate 90 degs at both ends aren't you? The 32 TPI blade/s will leave SUCH a lovely bright & smooo0ooth finish to start you off with the fine finishing.I really think you are trying to short cut this and missing all the enjoyment of the job. Try a 32tpi to get the best possible finish.
VERY well done that man. Are you going to send pix to that bloke who wrote about railway lines, what steel they're made of, and added that nobody should try to cut a piece with a hacksaw?
I'm interested in your reasoning too BTW novocaine. The Rockwell Hardness number quoted is high ("hard") - was it 60+? - I forget - but a decent hacksaw blade will cut it, albeit slowly. pe2dave certainly couldn't have reduced the temper by cutting it, so how do you think it was "de-tempered"? Do "they" perhaps "de-temper" rails when they're cutting them up for scrap? I dunno, and am interested (in a sort of idle curiosity way)? Come to that, what makes a rail scrap anyway? Cracked?I must admit to be slightly worried that your track has lost it's temper.
Fantastic piece of film novocaine, thanks.I'm worried because you managed to cut it. it isn't going to really matter though for your use, crack on.
how do they temper it (ok, heat treat it is the words I was aiming for), a pineapple big forge that's "painted".
I had to do an assessment at a track manufacturer (I can't mention a name but it's ever so patriotic), and spent most the time amazed at the sheer scale of the operation.
Yeah, I can well imagine that any cracking would start around the fishplate holes (but aren't rails welded these days, so no fishplates? I dunno). Interesting that they regrind the crowns. That must be an interesting process (and machine come to that). As you say, pure "wonder what/why/how" stuff from me - MILES away from the sort of stuff I used to mess about with.oh I wasn't suggesting Dave and his hacksaw had changed the temper of the steel, honest.
Ohhh good!!!!!!!!! (AES)
I was just surprised that he got through it as well as he did.
this was all just idle speculation as the topic is pretty much over. Given that the steel grade is work hardening, I'd sort of assumed if it had been used it would be somewhat harder than 280HB (about 31HRc for rockwell C scale) but I guess not. I wondered, almost as you are if the gas axe could reduce the hardness but that was sort of an idle speculation to be honest.
what makes a rail scrap? normally a completely worn crown. It gets reground a fair few times but when the head becomes to thin it's aimed at a very large fuckit buckit. they are inspected for cracks but most often these aren't obvious and would normally be hidden around the fishplate as they crack at the fishbolt holes.
I haven't done a lot of work in rail, but we have a rail division and I am slowly poaching some of their guys to work with me, so I went and asked.
you are completely correct, which shows how out of practice I am with rail stuff. the assessment at the foundry had little to do with rail as an industry.Yeah, I can well imagine that any cracking would start around the fishplate holes (but aren't rails welded these days, so no fishplates? I dunno).