Two cherries chisels

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scooby

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After reading that japanese chisels can be struck with steel hammers (I presuming claw hammers?) can the same be said of the 2 cherries chisels?

Both having the steel rings around the top of the handles makes me hopeful.

The only time I have used a mallet on chisels was back during my apprentice when our college tutors would verbally batter us for using hammers. Fair enough as they were the colleges chisels.

So do I need to get a mallet?

I don't mind (too much) getting one and using it at home, etc but it's just another to carry whilst working on site, etc. But if it means not having split handles then so be it.

Forgot to mention these are bevelled edge chisels so I won't be clobbering the hell out of them (like mortice chisels) but I do sometimes work with some reallly hard timber and firm strikes are needed.
 
Yep. My 2 cherries have a steel ferrule on the top of the handle and striking them with a hammer is no problem - all I used for ages. However, I have a carving mallet for my AIs and so tend to use this with the 2 cherries these days
 
You can buy japanese hammers to go with japanese chisels, they are quite nicely balanced with one face slightly domed to drive nails below the surface, I have this one

I rarely use a mallet, if on site then its the side of my claw hammer that does the job.

Jason
 
jasonB":1yyxyhl4 said:
I rarely use a mallet, if on site then its the side of my claw hammer that does the job.

Jason

Yep, since finishing my apprenticeship I've always used the side of my claw hammer to strike chisels but the majority were Footprint & Marples with supposedly split proof plastic handles. Having said that I did break the handle on 1 of the Footprints :oops:

Just wanted to make sure the 2 cherries and Oire Nomis were ok with hammers as I really don't like mallets (especially Timmy Mallet :x ) :D
 
If you are worried about splitting handles then perhaps you should try these :lol:

They are actually very good, I use the 40mm one for green oak timber framing and they hold an edge very well.

Jason

BTW do you drive a Scooby :?:

Jason
 
jasonB":2z52oxo5 said:
If you are worried about splitting handles then perhaps you should try these :lol:

They are actually very good, I use the 40mm one for green oak timber framing and they hold an edge very well.

Jason

BTW do you drive a Scooby :?:

Jason

Those chisels look evil :evil:

I'm not overly worried about splitting handles as I don't usually have the need to club them really hard. I've got some old blue handle Stanleys for that :D

hehe, no I don't drive a Scooby. Polar opposite actually as I drive an old shape Mini Cooper.
The username happened from my lack of imagination. When I signed up on my first forum I couldn't think of a name and just used the name of the name of the song I was listening to at the time (Scooby Snacks). Then after joining other forums it got shortened to Scooby :?
 
How shiney are the unpolished 2 cherries chisels? I ordered a 24mm unpolished from Dieter Schmid last week and received it today. The handle looks like the unpolished model, with flat spots in it. However, the blade is uber shiney. I'm not overly bothered, just curious as it seems like right handle, wrong blade.

Is there some sort of protective used in the polishing phase or are they just as susceptible to rust as normal chisels.
 
scooby":vu6vy3sf said:
How shiney are the unpolished 2 cherries chisels? I ordered a 24mm unpolished from Dieter Schmid last week and received it today. The handle looks like the unpolished model, with flat spots in it. However, the blade is uber shiney. I'm not overly bothered, just curious as it seems like right handle, wrong blade.

Is there some sort of protective used in the polishing phase or are they just as susceptible to rust as normal chisels.

AFAIK the unpolished have been ground, so they're gonna be "metal coloured", and rust my be an issue.

Of course, there's nothing to stop you polishing the top and bevel - just leave the back alone.

BugBear
 
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