traditional jig for holding doors

[thetyreman]

somewhere I've seen it, the thing is a notch cut out of 4 x 2 and you use two wedges to hold the door in place whilst you install hinges or plane the edge, what is it called? and does anyone have a reference for making one. I think jacob had a photo of it so would appreciate any tips, I am currently fitting a firedoor and could do with one to hold it in place whilst I work on it.

regards,

Ben.

 

[Ttrees]

Sorry Ben, can't recall what that particular birdsmouth arrangement is called, but a big clamp and a few offcuts would likely be as good.

Tom

 

[Doug71]

Think I still have one I made somewhere in the workshop, will post a pic tomorrow if I find it.

You only need one wedge as you cut one side of the notch the same angle as the wedge if that makes sense.

These things are infinitely better though and worth every penny, don't know why they sell them in pairs as you only need one.

https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product....xeqPbKXKBieGuMFdyChoCgRUQAvD_BwE#.YiAM6OjP3IU

 

[Woodwoodpecka]

Hi Ben,

Think this is what you’re after…

https://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/Saddle-and-Block.html
I ended up buying the Magic Gripper clamps instead after a recommendation and they are really good

Cheers, Dave

 

[thetyreman]

Hi Ben,

Think this is what you’re after…

https://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/Saddle-and-Block.html
I ended up buying the Magic Gripper clamps instead after a recommendation and they are really good

Cheers, Dave

that's it! thanks dave.

 

[Doug71]

Sounds like you are sorted but here is a photo of what I used to use.

 

[DBC]

Always a few of these in the van

 

[Jacob]

Not exactly a "traditional" jig it's just as useful now as it ever was! If you haven't got one you can knock one up on site in a few minutes. Better with two, for door fitting etc.
Planed faces and a long shallow angle wedge is tighter and less likely to leave a mark on the workpiece. Best to leave a square end on the pointy end so you can tap it out.
Can be clamped to saw-stools for holding a board for edge planing, etc

 

[thetyreman]

I'm going to make a couple of them tomorrow, thanks for the tips everyone, I've been enjoying fitting this door, it is very satisfying.

 

[Bingy man]

As a amateur woodworker I struggled with this issue over the years -especially with fire doors and hardwood exterior doors . last year with 8 internal doors to hang the cust went out and purchased a trend door stand as he saw the struggle I had - I’ve not looked back since , had 5 fire doors to hang recently and got a second one . Not a traditional fix but they work well , a couple of shims to protect softer/ hollow doors is all you need. They will accept doors up to 55mm approx.

 

[Linwoodjoinery]

The Trend one is superb. When someone showed it me I laughed at it. I’d managed 20 years without it. I wouldn’t hang a door without it now.

 

[Linwoodjoinery]

https://www.trend-uk.com/d-stand-a-trend-door-stand-secures-doors-vertically-or-horizontally

 

[Jacob]

It's the age old gadget issue!
The DIY wooden one is free (scrap wood), quicker to set up and sturdier in use. Bigger surface area means less likely to leave a mark.
You can easily bodge one to hold vertically - using a bit of ply for the base and adding wedgy bits.

 

[hlvd]

somewhere I've seen it, the thing is a notch cut out of 4 x 2 and you use two wedges to hold the door in place whilst you install hinges or plane the edge, what is it called? and does anyone have a reference for making one. I think jacob had a photo of it so would appreciate any tips, I am currently fitting a firedoor and could do with one to hold it in place whilst I work on it.

regards,

Ben.

I’ve got one I made years ago, but stole the idea from the 62 year old joiner I was working with as a 17 year old apprentice.

It’s made out of a length of 4”x2” with a notch for the door to sit in. The notch’s shoulders are square one side and tapered the other. You only need one wedge with a matching taper.
The bottom of the 4”x2” has the underside relived so that only the outer 3” touch the floor for stability.
I’ve used it for every door I’ve hung since, an invaluable tool.

 

[Jacob]

Here's mine in action on a very dusty old door! One will do, two is better.

 

[Pedronicus]

I feel a quick weekend build coming on!

 

[deema]

There Is an autogrip door holder you can make. If you take a piece of say 12mm ply, about 300mm long, glue at either end small square pieces of the same ply, to make feet. Now on the opposite side to the feet screw in two blocks of wood 1 or 2 mm wider than the door you want to grip ti create jamb blocks. Your now good to go. As you drop the door into the jamb created by the blocks of wood the ply bends and causes them to grip the door. As you lift the door out the ply springs back and releases the door. It’s what I use, just make one when needed.

 

[johnnyb]

hit the wedge to clamp hit the jack to unclamp. seems daft to buy one but if it a better I suppose maybe. when first got into speedy door fitting I liked vix bits but they tend to snap so now just use a drill( the vix bits are good on 4 inch hinges though) a wedge is useful nay essential when your hanging heavy doors so always have one with the traditional one.

 

[Doug71]

Once you use the gripper type you will never use any other, they are just so simple. You lay the door in and it holds it then lift the door up and it releases it, no wedging, no tightening things, you really appreciate them if you have been hanging fire doors all day..

 

[hlvd]

Once you use the gripper type you will never use any other, they are just so simple. You lay the door in and it holds it then lift the door up and it releases it, no wedging, no tightening things, you really appreciate them if you have been hanging fire doors all day..

I usually put the end of my block against the door casing when I’m planning so it doesn’t move forward, how well does the Trend version resist forward thrust?