Cabinet door gap consistency

Help Support

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


Established Member
10 Oct 2008
Reaction score
St. Ives, Cornwall
I am about to fit H-hinges to doors that fit inside the face frame of a cabinet and sit flush with the frame. The gap around the door has to be consistent all round or it will be noticeable.

With the best will in the world, hinges are never 100% stable and tend to sag under weight. So, I can wedge the doors in place all I want but if the hinges sag once installed I'm sunk.

Are there any old woodworker's tips to mitigate this please?

Would you be able to bend the knuckle to adjust the gap at all. I've seen on youtube 'normal' hinges on doors being bent to pull the door gap one way or another, and wonder if the same could be done for H hinge? In my head I feel if you twisted the top left of the knuckle anticlockwise that would lift the bottom right of the door up. (Assuming the door is to the right of the hinge) I could be talking baloney, and am interested to hear what more experienced people would do.
Good quality hinges have very little play.
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to recommend a UK supplier.
I've had Euro style hinges sag under a relatively heavy door. Switching to a better brand solved the problem. No experience with H hinges but I know Soss hinges are rock solid and I imagine would look better. ?
I would put the hinges on the door first and pack it in position. When screwing the top hinge to the frame pull the hinge leaf in the direction away from the door, almost like you are stretching the hinge just to take up any slack and screw it on. Do the opposite with the bottom hinge so pushing it towards the door, again to take up any slack in the hinge and screw it on. Hopefully when the packings come out it shouldn't sag!
If not too severe you can often just trim 45º from the arris of an edge to bring it visually into line - no need to take the door off or trim the whole thickness of the edge.
Block plane is the ideal tool, plus paring chisel for bits you can't get at.