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jillybob

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i have the chance of an, mckellar table saw,looks ok, looks in reasonable nick.the owner has been upfront(maybe) and says the only problem is the blade will not turn but the motor runs perfectly?my question is should i go for it or be wary as the price is so low?
thanks for any thoughts
 

studders

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Safety?

But seriously.....

I think these are direct drive from the motor, no belts, so it doesn't sound too promising, especially as there are so many, cheap, working examples to be had.
 

bosshogg

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If as studders points out, that this may be a direct drive from the motor, how could the seller asses that the motor runs perfectly but it will not turn the blade?
If on the the hand, it drives the blade via a pulley and bearing mounted shaft, then most likely the bearing(s) are seized, not the most demanding of repair jobs.
Ask to hear the motor running independently, as the seller must have done to make this statement, if he refuses for any reason, walk away...bosshogg
 

Karl

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This saw is fcked and the seller knows it.

It is a direct drive (brush) motor.
 

OldSchoolTools

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I agree with all who have replied, I dont buy any electrical gear its just not worth it,
If it was an easy fix believe me the seller would have it done and get more money.

beware.
 

Woody Alan

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From the net someone with the same problem with the same saw.

"Where can I get parts for a Mckeller MCKM23 table saw?
I am in need of a geared spindle for my MCKM23 10" table saw?, as the teath have worn off."

Sounds like a theme :D certainly explains motor running and stationary sharp bits.

Alan
 

Lord Kitchener

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It's most unlikely that any circular saw (hand or table) would be direct drive, parly because the speed would be wrong, too fast for a series motor, to slow dfor an induction motor, and also because the body of the motor would reduce the available depth of cut.


Having said that, the saw being offered is NFG
 

Karl

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LK - if it's not direct drive, are you suggesting that all saws are belt driven?
 

studders

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Direct drive was probably the wrong words to use when what I meant was 'not belt driven'. There's usually some gearing between the motor and the blade, and it often seems to be this that fails; not easily/viably fixable unlike a broken belt.
 

Karl

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studders":2wm0cgjh said:
Direct drive was probably the wrong words to use when what I meant was 'not belt driven'. There's usually some gearing between the motor and the blade, and it often seems to be this that fails; not easily/viably fixable unlike a broken belt.
I've always known it (and seen it referred to) as direct drive, gearing or not.
 

studders

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Me too, which was why I used that term. My compressor is the same, being called direct drive, even though it isn't direct from the motor shaft.
 

maltrout512

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I had one once :oops: It was one of those moments site saw (mobile) that sounds good. Gave it away few days later. Should have been called a s.ite saw. There were more than a couple of things wrong with it which did not justify sorting to what I had expected. Just my point of view.
 

ricky9

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The McKeller MCKM23 table saw has a small woodruf key in the gearbox which has a tendancy to shear. Never been able to trace one. WOULD NOT RECOMEND THIS TOOL.
 

flh801978

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LK
these type of saws use a brush motor and a spur gear on the end of the motor driving a 10 times bigger gear that then drives the blade
theres no belts hence direct drive
brush motors tend to run at 30,000rpm and with the 10:1 gearing the blade runs at 3000
they fit under the table but are a lot smaller in diameter than induction motors so the available cut isnt so diminished
But they are screamers because of the motor and crude gearbox

Ian
 
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