This is how I cut tenons on a bandsaw – well it works for me.

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Cabinetman

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First of all I would like to say I don’t know if I do it right I don’t if I do it wrong but it works for me and it’s relatively full proof.
I first of all use a pencil gauge and put a line along a piece of scrap the same distance in as the tenon is from the edge of the wood. I then cut along this line freehand and without moving it turn the bandsaw off. Two bits of masking tape to show where the edge of the bit of scrap was. I then bringing my home-made fence lump and line it up with the edges of the masking tape and G cramp it down.
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Having difficulty uploading photos today, the bit of wood marked 3/8 tenons is the clever bit you cut one side of the tenon and then take that piece of wood away and cut the next one, it takes a bit of trial and error to get that piece of wood the exact thickness so that your tenons are a nice fit, which is why it’s got a couple of pieces of black tape on the back!
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The uploading is not going very well at all today sorry about this folks, photos in the wrong order photos missing.
Obviously as you can see there is a depth stop G cramped at the back.
I should’ve said at the beginning the reason I followed the pencil line by freehand and then mark the angle that that particular blade cuts at is so that I can line the fence up with that angle it’s to stop the blade wandering on long tenons. I use the same method for resawing
 
the 3/8ths piece of wood is the thickness of the tenon plus the kerf of the bandsaw i think.
That’s just about right but I always do lots of samples to be sure, and blister yes I don’t know how that photo shows that, obviously when it stops at the stop it stops!
 
Haha, no just an old bit of worktop but it’s done its job, makes a brilliant resaw fence.
Either I’ve made this not very easy to understand, or perhaps everybody always does it this way. Anyway it’s out there, if anybody’s not sure what I’m rambling on about please don’t be afraid to ask . Ian
 
I used to make bridle joints on a bandsaw with a sheet metal insert attached to the fence that was the thickness of the kerf.
I'd cut the cheeks of the mortise without the insert and then do the tenons with the attached insert.
Or was it the other way 'round? :)
There was also a depth stop involved.
 
Hi dzj, I hardly ever do bridle joints but that’s a good way – thanks. It does take a minute or 2 to get your head around the right way to do it with the thickness of the kerf, quite easy to get it wrong!
 
Hi Cabinetman. I do use a Startrite saw (8" model) and a resaw fence, but there our methods part ways!! I am still a bit wobbly on my pinions or I would demonstrate; so bear with me please.

John
 
Usibng a spacer is a good idea, but there are challenges, especially if you use different blades. It doesn't take much of a change in kerf for a joint to go from Right to Too Loose/Tight.

I, too, use spacers, but my spacers are the exact size of the mortice, so I have a carefully-made set of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8" spacers which match the mortices made by my mortice chisels. My jig then AUTOMATICALLY COMPENSATES for the thickness of the kerf, regardless of what blade I am using. It takes less than a minute to calibrate the jig to the blade and then it is set until I change the blade. And yes, it also does bridle and halving joints.

With a fine-adjuster rip fence, M&T joints come out perfect, not just in fit, but in position, too. Face-frames come out dead flush, even if the original mortice is not perfectly central.

It's called The Ultimate Bandsaw Tenon Jig and I know that when I die I have left something excellent behind for woodworking-kind.

There is a very youthful geezer extoling its virtues here:

 
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Thanks Steve I will devour it at my leisure. Cheers Ian
PS that’s probably why I had to put three layers of tape on the back as I had changed the blade, I wondered why!
 
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