My Christmas project (a computer desk) has dragged on a bit longer than planned but the end may be in sight. The next job is the buttons holding the top to the rails. The top is about 1" thick. Is there any particular recommendation for the thickness of the tenons of the buttons? I'm guessing that anything thinner than 1/4" might be too weak. Is there a rule of thumb for this? All components are of cherry.
Thickness of tenons on buttons
- Thread starter Andy Kev.
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undergroundhunter
Established Member
I would use 1/4" tenons 3/8" down the rail so the total thickness of the buttons is 5/8". If you go to www.woodworkingmasterclasses.com and register for a free account Paul sellers has video showing a quick way of mass producing turn buttons.
Matt
Matt
custard
Established Member
The Barnsley Workshops use a particularly elegant style of button,
This button style has been widely adopted by furniture makers and they're not that much extra work if you batch them out,
Anyhow, the originals use a 1/4" tenon thickness, so 6.4mm. I know some makers cut button mortices with a Domino, 6mm for small furniture, 8mm for large, and then size the button tenons 0.1mm less and place the tenon 0.1-0.2mm lower than the mortice.
Good luck with your computer table!
This button style has been widely adopted by furniture makers and they're not that much extra work if you batch them out,
Anyhow, the originals use a 1/4" tenon thickness, so 6.4mm. I know some makers cut button mortices with a Domino, 6mm for small furniture, 8mm for large, and then size the button tenons 0.1mm less and place the tenon 0.1-0.2mm lower than the mortice.
Good luck with your computer table!
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undergroundhunter
Established Member
I like those buttons Custard!
Matt
Matt
Biliphuster
Established Member
custard":13eewdv6 said:
Maybe I have misunderstood this, but are you using buttons and corner blocks screwed to the underside of the top there? Do the corner blocks restrain the top enough to risk splitting?
Very good looking blocks though.
custard
Established Member
Biliphuster":30u4nzch said:
Well spotted, and my mistake for not explaining. There's a small gap between the corner block and the top, plus the clearance hole is countersunk on both sides. Net result the screw effectively holds down the top but pivots enough to accommodate shrinkage.
Thanks for the replies chaps. I can see another minor delay coming on while I make some of those Barnsley Buttons!
