The Super Smoother thing...

[iNewbie]

Excuse my newbie ignorance.

I've noticed a recommendation of using the 5 1/2 Jack as a Super Smoother. Would this do-away with the need for a 4 1/2 smoother?


Thanks for any advice.

 

[Racers]

Hi, iNewbie

No, its considered bad form not to own at least on of each size/type of plane.

Pete

p.s. the extra mass and length helps.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

and you definitely need a Stanley, a Record and a Marples in each size as well.

 

[MIGNAL]

Excuse my newbie ignorance.

I've noticed a recommendation of using the 5 1/2 Jack as a Super Smoother. Would this do-away with the need for a 4 1/2 smoother?


Thanks for any advice.

In the vast majority of cases, yes. Of course a 5 1/2 is a lot longer and heavier than a No.4 so if you have a LOT of smoothing to do then the No.4 might be a little less tiring. I suppose it also depends on the actual size of the timber you need to smooth.

 

[Vann]

I've noticed a recommendation of using the 5 1/2 Jack as a Super Smoother. Would this do-away with the need for a 4 1/2 smoother?

Maybe it would do away with the need for a large smoother like the No.4½, making a No.4, or even a No.3, a better choice as a second smoother - for finer work :|

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Jacob]

Excuse my newbie ignorance.

I've noticed a recommendation of using the 5 1/2 Jack as a Super Smoother.

Really? A bit big for a smoother but ideal as a jack -if you only have one this is the one to have.

Would this do-away with the need for a 4 1/2 smoother?


Thanks for any advice.

I've never found much use for a 4 1/2 - it's also a bit big for a smoother but if you have one you could keep it set up for smoothing - less camber, steeper effective angle etc. Or swap it for a 4.

 

[Racers]

I was using a No8 on a small very thin piece of wood the other day. it had a long enough toe to cover the whole piece of wood, and hold it down against the bench stop, I was having problems with it shooting over the stop as the top is slightly chewed up.
So you don't know when a different sized plain will come in useful.

Pete

 

[iNewbie]

No, its considered bad form not to own at least on of each size/type of plane.

I have no intent in becoming the Imelda Marcos of planes.

 

[bugbear]

Excuse my newbie ignorance.

I've noticed a recommendation of using the 5 1/2 Jack as a Super Smoother. Would this do-away with the need for a 4 1/2 smoother?


Thanks for any advice.

Smoothers are conventionally as short as is convenient, since they're meant to alter the surface texture, not the surface shape.

The workpiece should already be flat when you smooth it, courtesy of long planes used in earlier stages of stock prep.

So - in short - I wouldn't recommend the #5 1/2 as a smoother, certainly not a dedicated one.

BugBear

 

[Fromey]

I agree with Bugbear. Arguably you use longer planes to true up boards so they are flat. One use for a smoother is to work on localised areas of tearout. That will, by necessity, create small areas of depressions in the wood (hopefully not so much as to be noticeable). If using a longer plane (like a 5 1/2) you may find it gets progressively more difficult to cut down into the depressions and so smooth out the tearout. Just my off the cuff thoughts on the matter.

 

[speeder1987]

Until Christmas my shortest plane was a no.5 which I used for pretty much everything.

For Christmas I got a qangsheng (excuse the spelling) no as a dedicated smoother. It makes a big difference, much easier to work on localized areas of the wood. There's a reason why they makes planes of different lengths!!

So you can use a no5 if you needed to, but I definitely recommend a dedicated smoother.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bugbear]

One use for a smoother is to work on localised areas of tearout.

I saw Mario Rodriguez demonstrate this using a LN #102 block plane with a narrow mouth (special order) and a high EP blade.

That's a mighty localised smoother.

BugBear

 

[iNewbie]

Luthier Brian Burn's only plane is a standard Veritas Block Plane - with an extra blade for figured wood. :shock:

 

[Jacob]

Alan Peters is reputed to have only used a no 7. That's a daft idea too!

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Since all the bench planes - numbers 1 to 8 - are of pretty much the same basic design, differing only in length, width and consquently mass, you could in theory make any of them perform any bench planing task. There's no law saying you can't if you want to, either.

However, it's usually most convenient for most woodworkers to use a medium-sized plane with a coarse setting and a wide mouth for preparation work, a long plane with a tightish mouth and not-too-deep setting for truing-up boards after initial heavy stock removal, and a small nimble plane with a tight mouth and fine setting for final finishing and refining surfaces for fit or finish.

So in general - number 5 or 5 1/2 for heavy stock removal, 7 or 8 for truing up, 3, 4 or 4 1/2 for smoothing. Which one you choose is as much down to the scale of the workpiece and to personal prejudices and preferences as anything else.

But, if you fancy using a 5 1/2 as a smoother, go right ahead. Ain't no law agin it!

 

[David C]

I would bet fairly large sums, that those advising you not to tune a 5 1/2 as a smoother, have never tried it.

What have you got to lose? It can always be detuned again.

The small workshop usually has a planer thicknesser. I do not often find myself hand planing away more than a few thou, to remove machine ripple and snipe, and to check accuracy.

No 4s feel light and insubstantial to me, local removal of tearout with one of these is going to produce hollows in a surface. The length of a 5 1/2 is a very useful aid to maintaining straightness.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth.

And Alan Peters was in no way daft.

 

[iNewbie]

Hi David. Do you still use the 5 1/2 when you come up against gnarly wood? Or, what do you do. Thanks.

 

[David C]

Yes, with a back beveled blade.

David

 

[Jacob]

I would bet fairly large sums, that those advising you not to tune a 5 1/2 as a smoother, have never tried it.

What have you got to lose? It can always be detuned again.

Yebbut why bother when you have a better alternative i.e. a smaller plane? If you have it working nicely as a jack it's best to leave well alone IMHO.

The small workshop usually has a planer thicknesser. I do not often find myself hand planing away more than a few thou, to remove machine ripple and snipe, and to check accuracy.

No 4s feel light and insubstantial to me, local removal of tearout with one of these is going to produce hollows in a surface. The length of a 5 1/2 is a very useful aid to maintaining straightness.

Except you are likely to get new areas of tear-out if you attempt to smooth the whole of a surface, which is why you want a small plane to enable you to get at small areas of tear-out. Bin there dunnit - and got the belt sander out!

And Alan Peters was in no way daft.

So do you use a 7 for everything? If not why not?

 

[Fromey]

So this begs the question, why were No 1 through to 4 1/2 ever made?