Suggestions Please - Curved Wood

[Alex H]

I know that steam bending is the preferred solution, but I have neither the time or inclination, so please don't suggest it - Thank You.

The profile in the photo is the metal arm of an office chair. I want to make a wooden 'cover' to replace the leatherette / foam rubbish that has self-destructed.

Any suggestions are welcome (not including steam bending - see above) as to how I can achieve this.

 

[Jacob]

Just a line, means nothing, does the wood go above, below etc. Needs sketch of what you want or photo of existing chair?

 

[Alex H]

Wood above the line, the line being the actual length of the armrest

 

[Just4Fun]

Transverse cuts across the underside almost (but not quite) reaching the top. More cuts where the bend is tighter. Effectively leave not much more than a veneer which will bend easily. Bend to desired shape and glue.

 

[Ttrees]

Bicycle inner tube might be worth considering sourcing for the job,
if not wanting to build formers for either kerf cut solid or laminations.

 

[fatbob]

Steam bending!(sorry)
laminating
or mark out the profile and thickness you require on a sheet of thick ply, cut multiple copies and glue them side by side then sand or route the edges smooth.

 

[stuckinthemud]

the radius on that curve looks a little bit tight for saw kerfing but it might be worth a go as a first shout, I reckon cutting and gluing multiple copies as fatbob suggested is a good solution

 

[Dee J]

Bandsaw it out of a large slab. Preferably something with a gnarly twisted grain (like Elm?) . Or boat knee style - find a crook that follows the curve.

 

[ColinDeVelen]

How thick does it need to be? Assuming it's 1cm, and it's just visual, not load bearing, then cut from a thick piece if you have it (use that plywood curve as a template so that you can cut both sides), or make an oversized piece and then cut the curve (either as with making small wheels starting with straight parts, cutting to an octagon and then cutting the radius, or following the template).

 

[MikeJhn]

Get hold of a window board and cut one to 25mm deeper than the inside radius and two to 25mm above the outside radius (+arm thickness) laminate together, sand and finish to your taste, not a good description, but I am sure you get the idea.

 

[John on the Wirral]

I tend to run timber into thin strips and create the required shape as a former and glue the laminates together having covered the former with plastic sheet to prevent sticking

 

[Qwercus]

I know that steam bending is the preferred solution, but I have neither the time or inclination, so please don't suggest it - Thank You.

The profile in the photo is the metal arm of an office chair. I want to make a wooden 'cover' to replace the leatherette / foam rubbish that has self-destructed.

Any suggestions are welcome (not including steam bending - see above) as to how I can achieve this.

View attachment 165857

 

[Qwercus]

A few layers of "Bendy Plywood" glued and laminated?.

 

[custard]

Steam bending would not be my preferred solution.

The problem with steam bending is the significant and unpredictable degree of spring back. Where as it sounds like you need a component made to fairly tight tolerances to conform to a pre-existing member.

Laminating, especially when done with creep free adhesives, a well made former, and relatively thin lamina (say 3mm or under) will reliably deliver a much more precise result.

I do a huge amount of both steam bending and lamination work. Laminating yields components with typically two or three mill of spring back, the same components steam bent might exhibit anywhere from ten to fifty mill of spring back.

 

[Orraloon]

Laminate is the way to go. Thinner the wood strips the easier it will bend and the less spring back you will have. A lot of production chairs are made that way. Make a form the shape you want and clamp the glued strips to it. Plenty of online info on how to do it. I would say lams about 2 to 3mm would be what you need. A sanding drum on the drill press and a fence will let you make the strips any thickness you need
Regards
John

 

[recipio]

The most aesthetically pleasing result would be to find a chunk of interesting timber and bandsaw out the shape . A timber with interlocking grain would prevent any splits. If you have to use straight grain timber I would just estimate the appropriate angle and cut two half angles to allow them to fold to the correct angle of bend. Reinforcement with a tenon/ biscuit would of course be necessary and sanding back to a ' fair curve ' as the old timers used to say. Lamination is a lot of work and never looks quite ' right ' unless you are going to veneer over the laminations IMO.