Stick blender for paint
- Thread starter Jacob
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Jacob":1cbjzn4v said:
I just opened up a half full tin of Zinsser All coat to do some touch ups on my garage door. Last used 3 years ago when I painted the door and the masonry parts of the house. It was settled as expected but with a quick mix it was back to normal, went on lovely. So I am afraid you are wrong there.
That's gotta be a top shout for free eh?
Love a cheapo tip.
While we're talking about paint.
Seriously considering doing a gradual refurb on all the windows on my place with linseed paint after posts by Jacob and Coley.
Frames were ok generally here apart from the front bay which I stripped out and replaced almost entirely the external soft wood with hard wood when we moved here because they were finished. Did a proper job on all the rest in terms of painting. Rubbed down, 2 part epoxy filler where needed which was sparse, 2 coats + of primer, undercoat, gloss using a decent trade paint.
Ta Daaaaa!
3 (4?) years in a lot of the paint is showing minor cracking especially round putty and on the flat areas of the cills. (All round the house, not just on the 'new' bay window which get the worst of any afternoon sun.
I watched my Dad spend half his life rubbing down windows and repainting. Sod that tbh. (Sorry Dad :| )
Million Dollar Question.
Would I be better investing extra time and money in that linseed paint and stripping a window at a time, prepping and painting it rather than keep trying to make good with modern paints every 3 years. I can paint and decorate well. I have patience and fair skills at least for an amateur. I just have other things I'd rather do like push marbles into my eye sockets 3 at a time. I'd rather spend one lump of time on it now over a gradual process then leave it for what? 10-15 years? Is that a reasonable expectation for linseed paint if applied properly to sound frames?
Cheers now
Chris
Love a cheapo tip.
While we're talking about paint.
Seriously considering doing a gradual refurb on all the windows on my place with linseed paint after posts by Jacob and Coley.
Frames were ok generally here apart from the front bay which I stripped out and replaced almost entirely the external soft wood with hard wood when we moved here because they were finished. Did a proper job on all the rest in terms of painting. Rubbed down, 2 part epoxy filler where needed which was sparse, 2 coats + of primer, undercoat, gloss using a decent trade paint.
Ta Daaaaa!
3 (4?) years in a lot of the paint is showing minor cracking especially round putty and on the flat areas of the cills. (All round the house, not just on the 'new' bay window which get the worst of any afternoon sun.
I watched my Dad spend half his life rubbing down windows and repainting. Sod that tbh. (Sorry Dad :| )
Million Dollar Question.
Would I be better investing extra time and money in that linseed paint and stripping a window at a time, prepping and painting it rather than keep trying to make good with modern paints every 3 years. I can paint and decorate well. I have patience and fair skills at least for an amateur. I just have other things I'd rather do like push marbles into my eye sockets 3 at a time. I'd rather spend one lump of time on it now over a gradual process then leave it for what? 10-15 years? Is that a reasonable expectation for linseed paint if applied properly to sound frames?
Cheers now
Chris
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Hard to say for sure.
I don't think you could leave it for 10 / 15 years - in fact they say 7. But refreshing it is quick easy and it won't ever need stripping back.
I've done a variety of scenarios; on new wood, on old wood stripped, on ali primer, on failed paint rubbed down but not stripped entirely, on old PU varnish, on metal work. So far, over about 10 years, it's stuck very well everywhere, with hardly a hint of failure.
But - it's never as bright as high gloss, you don't get the colours, it can get mildewy (but it washes off easily) and it does slowly go chalky (faded and matt - think of old shutters in french towns).
But it seems to stick like sh*t to a blanket as they say.
And it goes a long way - you have to brush it out thin.
Touching up involves a wash down with soapy water and when dry just oil alone freshens it up for a few years. Very quick and easy to apply, no skill involved except brushing out thin.
If it's a bit faded then a new coat of paint, either direct or first prime with oil.
I'm totally sold on it, I won't be using anything else on external work.
Give it a go, remember it's very unlike modern paints, and brush it out thin.
I don't think you could leave it for 10 / 15 years - in fact they say 7. But refreshing it is quick easy and it won't ever need stripping back.
I've done a variety of scenarios; on new wood, on old wood stripped, on ali primer, on failed paint rubbed down but not stripped entirely, on old PU varnish, on metal work. So far, over about 10 years, it's stuck very well everywhere, with hardly a hint of failure.
But - it's never as bright as high gloss, you don't get the colours, it can get mildewy (but it washes off easily) and it does slowly go chalky (faded and matt - think of old shutters in french towns).
But it seems to stick like sh*t to a blanket as they say.
And it goes a long way - you have to brush it out thin.
Touching up involves a wash down with soapy water and when dry just oil alone freshens it up for a few years. Very quick and easy to apply, no skill involved except brushing out thin.
If it's a bit faded then a new coat of paint, either direct or first prime with oil.
I'm totally sold on it, I won't be using anything else on external work.
Give it a go, remember it's very unlike modern paints, and brush it out thin.
Many thanks Jacob. Much appreciate you sharing your experience with it.
I think I will you know.
Will probably be next years work after doing the extension I'm a bit tired of it all tbh. Need a break from the house and the windows as they are will easily will last that long. Be nice to have a bit of time in the shed finally.
None of the 'negatives' you mention bother me really. Not especially fond of high gloss finish, think its become standard because it's what's become available. Appreciate the honesty of your response.
Just mentioned it to the Wise One. 'No brainer' she said.
'That's good' I said 'You can crack on then....'
I'm sure she'll be back later meanwhile I'll cook my own dinner.
I think I will you know.
Will probably be next years work after doing the extension I'm a bit tired of it all tbh. Need a break from the house and the windows as they are will easily will last that long. Be nice to have a bit of time in the shed finally.
None of the 'negatives' you mention bother me really. Not especially fond of high gloss finish, think its become standard because it's what's become available. Appreciate the honesty of your response.
Just mentioned it to the Wise One. 'No brainer' she said.
'That's good' I said 'You can crack on then....'
I'm sure she'll be back later meanwhile I'll cook my own dinner.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Just a thought:
Linseed paints stick very well to everything I've tried it on, including on top of modern gloss paint.
Would it work the other way - build up a good base of oil as primer plus one or two coats linseed oil paint, then modern gloss as top coat - giving you brighter colours and easier to clean surface?
I might have a go.
Linseed paints stick very well to everything I've tried it on, including on top of modern gloss paint.
Would it work the other way - build up a good base of oil as primer plus one or two coats linseed oil paint, then modern gloss as top coat - giving you brighter colours and easier to clean surface?
I might have a go.
AES
Established Member
I should also like to add my thinks to both Jacob and Coley (for me, like other members here, that "Like" button just doesn't do it, sorry).
Anyway, I have an outside oak garden bench to do. It should be done this year but perhaps it won't! But whenever it finally happens, based on the inputs from you two I'm definitely going to try it. It will be a new one for me (personally I find the smell of linseed oil pretty disgusting, but it really sounds as though the benefits will outweigh that small disadvantage). AND the supplier is a tool shop I definitely want to visit again - in Munich, which isn't exactly just around the corner, but a nice drive if the weather's nice.
Anyway, I have an outside oak garden bench to do. It should be done this year but perhaps it won't! But whenever it finally happens, based on the inputs from you two I'm definitely going to try it. It will be a new one for me (personally I find the smell of linseed oil pretty disgusting, but it really sounds as though the benefits will outweigh that small disadvantage). AND the supplier is a tool shop I definitely want to visit again - in Munich, which isn't exactly just around the corner, but a nice drive if the weather's nice.
There's a particular technique that gets whisks to introduce air in a big way and it's not achieved by simply twirling it in the liquid. As it is all thorough mixing introduces some air to the paint.mbartlett99":2w38kl5u said:
Take a look at the contents of a power-shaken tin sometime for a bit of a shocker!
Obviously where there are lots of bubbles formed you just need to wait a bit for the majority of to rise out, but if you're decanting and not painting from the original container (as you should) this can be used to get rid of a lot of rest, plus any dilution will further diminish them. And many finishes benefit from a smidge of dilution.
Yeah, within the industry-standard shelf life. But I bet Jacob's using a few paints that are a trifle older than that! [Typed before I read down and saw he'd specified what he was using.]thick_mike":1m6z37qy said:
I, uh, still have numerous paints I bought in the 20th century :-"
There's a practical reason for it that was found out years ago (before any of us were born) through industry testing: all other things being equal gloss surfaces shed surface contaminants most efficiently and cleaner surfaces age better. That's one reason why you don't see satin or matt finishes on aircraft or on a yacht.Bm101":9rgweozm said:
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
This is true. Gloss paint is relatively self cleaning, or easier to clean.ED65":2b5hya9t said:
Unfortunately it is also relatively not so well attached - hence peeling paint flaking off but still retaining the high gloss finish (on the flakes that is)!
thick_mike
Wood Shortener
Actually the best self cleaning paints have a satin finish based on similar morphology to the lotus flower. Hydrophobic fibres sticking up from the surface don’t allow dirty water to wet the surface and the dirt is shed immediately. Not sure if there are commercial products available now, but we were working on them when I was in the industry ten years ago.
"All other things being equal" Mike. With an additive like that the surface morphology becomes essentially irrelevant, but a gloss finish is now possible with this type of thing as can be seen (or actually not!) when applied to glass.
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