Setting leg length on a Spindle Stool

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xy mosian

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I made two Spindle Stools recently and came up with this method of getting the seat to settle level, without wobble.
I don't remember seeing the method before, but may well have done.
Apologies if I have and I haven't credited someone.

This is the method I have used in the past.
IMG_0001-cr-reduce.JPG

First set a board, brown hardboard here but normally thicker, level. I am lucky the flag in the image is level.
Then adjust the seat to be level by using wedges under appropriate legs.
Measure the height of the seat from the floor, board, and subtract the required height.
Mark this distance up from the board on each leg, and cut.
As you may know, or can imagine, the opportunities for the whole lot to come adrift are many.


The method I now use, well twice anyway, is this.
IMG_0002-cr-reduce.JPG

Place the seat upside down on any flat(ish) surface.
Use a guide, piece of cardboard here, at the required seat height to mark the legs where they need cutting.
If a slopping seat is needed, chair for example, then wedge the seat away from the surface as needed, before marking.
If a chair has continuous back and legs then place the seat over the corner of a bench, or table.

I hope this may be of use to anyone getting all his legs the correct length.

xy.
 

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Xy, you might be over complicating this. In the real world sets of chairs or stools can have slight height variations, in the order of 2 or 3mm, without it being noticeable or objectional. And you can hit this standard easily enough with the first method you outlined, which is why that method is so widely used. Don't get me wrong, I'll build a jig at the drop of a hat when it comes to chair making. Just method two might be a jig too far!

Cracking stools by the way.
 
Hi custard,

Thanks for the comments.
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear. I use this method to make sure all the legs, on any given stool or chair, are the same length.
I find it easier than using al those wedges to level things up.

xy
 
I still don't get it Xy, using the cardboard template I can't see how you can scribe a line on the inside quadrant of each leg? To saw the leg to length, and then clean up with a block plane, you need a scribed line (or at least I need a scribed line!) right around the leg.
 
Ah I see!
Here's me in my ham fisted way, I have never worked a scribed line all around each leg. Perhaps that is because I don't have a long reach scribe.
I have relied upon a scribed line on the outer surface of the legs and cut with a fine tooth saw following the line by sight.
A smidgen off each leg with the block plane, or paring chisel, seems to work for me.
I must rig up a long reach scribe, to clear the levelling wedge ends, next time I make a seat, with legs.

xy
 
Rorschach":2wnfg4if said:
I just use a sharp pencil taped to a block of wood.

That'll get the job done, or a plane blade resting on a correctly sized block off-cut would also give you the reach you need.
 
Rorschach":10bnxai0 said:
I just use a sharp pencil taped to a block of wood.

So do I!

I prefer to keep it simple with little room for error. The pencil and block combo allow for a scribe line all the way around. I also level the seat prior to pegging and gluing.
 

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