Seals for boarded door with 4 centre arch

[MikeG.]

There are 4 parts to this question, as there are two similar shaped but different spec'd doors. Here is the door:

The outer door (shown in the above drawing) is ledged and boarded, and the door follows the shape of the arched head. I need a suitable level access threshold arrangement for such a door (I'll use a weatherbar to help with that detail). The edge seals along the straight bits are easy, but how do I cut a 2.5mm slot into a curved spandrel, and how do I deal with the short grain issues? I can't even think of a scratch-stock that would work for the job in oak.

The inner door is much chunkier (nearly 75mm thick), so I don't have the same problem at the bottom edge (where I also need a level access threshold seal), but I do have similar issues to the outer door at the arched head. Both inner and outer doors open in.

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[AndyT]

Is the curved spandrel in position or is it still on the bench?

Hand tool methods include a really skinny but deep chisel. If you can't find a new one you could grind down the tip of an old one. Mark out with a mortice gauge or ordinary marking gauge twice.
Another approach would be a hand held electric router freehand with a fence. You could use a small straight cutter or turn round 90 degrees and use a slot cutter. Maybe a biscuit jointer would be the right size?

Or for a left-field approach there was a wacky device called a Tek-tool which would do it.

There's an episode of the Woodwright's Shop on curved panel doors and Roy uses a 72 hand router to mark out the grooves.

Can you clarify which plane the groove needs to be in? Parallel to the door or at right angles to it?

 

[MikeG.]

The spandrels are still sitting outside in the form of a 12x4x8' beam.

I can't see a slot cutter working at all. As the router goes around the curve the slot will get wider and wider. 2.5mm straight cutter, in oak? Wow, that's asking a lot, but I guess it's just about possible (there might be a bit of smoke!). 2.5mm chisel? That's called a bradawl, isn't it?

 

[AndyT]

I'm really confused now. Could you do a sketch showing the curved piece and which way the groove goes?
Also the dimensions - I was assuming 2.5mm is the width but you don't say what the depth is.

 

[ColeyS1]

Something like this ?

Is the main problem the narrow groove ?
I've done it before using just the tip of a draughtstrip cutter, spindle moulder or router bit

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[MikeG.]

I imagine the depth would be 3 to 5 mm, depending on the chosen seal.

The seal would have to fit into the back face of the stop/ spandrel (ie squeezed between the door and the stop), rather than on the door posts.

 

[Hornbeam]

If the slot is in the back of the panel, why not make a guide template out of 6mm ply and then use a 2.5mm straight cutter and a guide bush.
Ian

 

[MikeG.]

Imgur is on the blink. I'll load a drawing when I can.

Panel, Hornbeam? What panel?

 

[ColeyS1]

If you were to join the front face of the frame with the back as per the sketch, you could just use a bearing guided rebate cutter before joining the two halves together (hidden joint aswell) Instead of forming a splitty chattery short grained rebate with some kind of cutter, you could just cut the shapes out on a bandsaw then stick em together.

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[MikeG.]

There is no frame. There's a bloody great oak post either side, already in situ.

 

[ColeyS1]

An inner frame would look really pretty [WINKING FACE]

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[MikeG.]

There's no room. No, it's just stops fixed to the posts.

 

[MikeG.]

Imgur still not working, so let's see if this works. This is a horizontal section through the door post, stop, and door (outside door).

 

[ColeyS1]

This is a daft question, but could the door be square on the top, with those curvey bits of the frame forming the shape on the outside ? Personally I'd sooner have a rebate in the chunk of oak then a pinned on stop.

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Edit- bit like this

 

[MikeG.]

No. Although that is an approach seen on some mediaeval buildings, it really isn't what I want to do.

 

[ColeyS1]

Fair enough, just thought it'd save you having to make finickity curvy stops.

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[ColeyS1]

I guess there's no reason you couldn't stick an inside board on the top to form a rebate - it'd also allow you to keep the nice shaped top.

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[Hornbeam]

Imgur is on the blink. I'll load a drawing when I can.

Panel, Hornbeam? What panel?

. The arched rail across the top of the door frame. Cut a template similar shape but shifted upwards and then use this to guide guide bush in a router with 2.5mm bit.

Ian

 

[MikeG.]

Ah, got you. Yes, that's do-able, but as I said, a 2.5mm straight cutter in oak is not going to be a pleasant experience!

 

[MikeG.]

I guess there's no reason you couldn't stick an inside board on the top to form a rebate - it'd also allow you to keep the nice shaped top.

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Well physically that's do-able, but the aesthetics are of chunky lumps of oak with pegs, so I'm reluctant.