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Resawing

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DTR

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Evening all,

I have some 8" wide, 1-1/4" thick sapele boards that I need to resaw. 8" is of course far too wide for my little band saw. Is a frame saw my best option?
 

thick_mike

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Just been resawing some 8" sapele this evening. I used a 3tpi rip saw, made sure I sharpened it just before sawing.

I only did 2ft though! Didn't feel like I needed to go to the gym afterwards.
 

Teckel

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I usually just run them on the rip saw. It will cut around 4" then flip it over.
If the board is wider than that I finish off bit to be cut with the bandsaw, then run through the thicknesser
 

woodbloke

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Teckel":ngthheei said:
I usually just run them on the rip saw. It will cut around 4" then flip it over.
If the board is wider than that I finish off bit to be cut with the bandsaw, then run through the thicknesser
I've done this on a table saw in the past and it's not best practice, as you have to remove the crown guard to do it. The so called technique of 'deep ripping' is illegal in any commercial and professional 'shop for that reason - Rob
 

mickthetree

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I ripped some 9" wide oak with a frame saw I made. 3tpi 1" wide bandsaw blade off cut worked very well. I didn't make the frame strong enough though so had to add some more bracing which looked very ugly. Worked though and quite fast. Most important thing was to hold the wood securely as it jumped all over the place. Saw horses and sitting on top would probably been the best option.

HTH
 

Chrispy

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I think the idea of the frame saw is that as the blade is in tension it can be much thinner than a pushed hand saw, thinner blade = less effort.

But the best tool to use is the bigger band saw that a mate has in his shed! (hammer)
 

Richard T

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Dave, the most useful tip I have been given about hand ripping, whatever type of saw, is to mark across the top and down both sides. You can start the cut along the top line and down the line of the side facing you - before turning the piece around and cutting down the line on the other side using the previous cut to guide the saw where you can no longer see it.
Seems obvious and you probably know it already but it has helped the accuracy of my hand ripping tremendously.
 

DTR

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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I had a go with my rip saw yesterday but it's not really up to the job (6tpi). I have a friend who could probably get it done at work but that's not an option I'd want to rely on.

mickthetree":3ozphrti said:
I ripped some 9" wide oak with a frame saw I made. 3tpi 1" wide bandsaw blade off cut worked very well.
Until I find an industrial size bandsaw down the back of the sofa I think this is going to be my best option. Can you give any details please? (Do I recall seeing a thread about this recently?)

Richard T":3ozphrti said:
Dave, the most useful tip I have been given about hand ripping, whatever type of saw, is to mark across the top and down both sides. You can start the cut along the top line and down the line of the side facing you
Thanks Richard. I did have this in mind already but the confirmation is reassuring, and definitely worth posting.

Corneel":3ozphrti said:
No pitsaw anyone?
That might be an option, it's about time Doris paid her way... (hammer)
 

mickthetree

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ah ha! I KNEW I had some pictures somewhere.

Click that link for the whole gallery, but here are a couple.



Frame was mortice and tenon joints, but the top rails were not man enough for the job, so I whacked on some lumps from a hardwood pallet. Looked a lot like maple I seem to recall and worked perfectly. I'd make the whole thing from pallet hardwood if I had to make one again.

The saw is long since gone, but I do still have the blades. You can have one for the cost of the postage if you cant find any.

The blade is attached to some threaded rod which I cut a slit into. The bolts were not strong enough and got replaced with some nails. I cut them short and bent them to stay in place.

 

Richard T

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Well Jim, there's not many of us mad enough to build such a thing and I have spent lots of time hand ripping previous to having it finished. Including all the long ripping involved in making it - the carriage rails especially. Chainsawn out of a log to start with, then re-sawn with a re - cut C/T saw ... 6" x 3" x 6' 9" each . Great fun.
And yes, I would have to make sacrificial wooden dogs to hold 1 - 1/4" .

so ... what did you use to rip the pieces for the frame Mick? :) (I guess that's how they came of the pallet?)
 

marcros

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what size was it Mick? is the width significant, i understand how length would be.
 

mickthetree

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TBH I didn't give it much thought. It was about shoulder width apart. If I did it again, I'd probably make it narrower and longer as I think it would reduce fatigue and longer strokes would reduce the number of strokes required.

I got the oak at almost those sizes already so no chicken and egg three Richard ;-). It was quite heath robinson, but very effective.

I've just realised that you probably cant see from those photos, but the threaded rod goes right through the end rails. There is a large washer and nut on the other side. Tighten the nuts at either end to bring the blade into tension.

As I mentioned the end rails were not man enough for the job, but those lumps of pallet wood certainly were. Could get a very nice 'ping' on the blade when plucked.
 

snikolaev28

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Hmm.... I've resawed a piece of ebony board, near 11 inches wide and near 1 meter length, board was 2 inches - 54 mm. Used ripToothed cataba (saw length 300 mm) for it. In my head were a lot of thoughts and about frame saw too. After resawing mentioned ebony board I've found a decision - bought a bandsaw.
So now use Kataba a little but only home and only for small projects.
But probably resawing by hand help to cut expenditures for fitness club.
 

speeder1987

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DTR":20r1r222 said:
Until I find an industrial size bandsaw down the back of the sofa I think this is going to be my best option. Can you give any details please? (Do I recall seeing a thread about this recently?)
Hi DTR, yes your right this is the link to the thread I created recently on frame saws

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/anyone-had-any-luck-with-one-of-these-t62164.html

I don't know if **** the best way, I made one to try and rip some walnut which was book matched for a box I was making. The saw worked ok but wandered (so didn't end up bookmatched) , think I might have fixed the problem with blade tension, or with a different blade.

I don't know about the suitability of a frame saw as a long term solution, depends how often the wood you need to rip is bigger than the capacity of your band saw. Its hard work and slow going but I imagine practice makes perfect and will speed the process and get better results.

Finally here is some interesting reading of frame saws and on building one if your interested

http://www.galoototron.com/tag/frame-saw/

http://www.hyperkitten.com/woodworking/frame_saw.php

Regards
John
 

DTR

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Thank you John, I will give those a read
 
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