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Record power BS400 vs Hammer N4400

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Prizen

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Looking for a new bandsaw. Is the Hammer N4400 really worth almost double the price of the BS400 from record power?
 

Prizen

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Cheers. Read almost all of that. Just wondering if anyone has seen or used both of these, or perhaps the Hammer and another brand. Have the Hammer in mind
 

shed9

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I own a Hammer N4400 but have also used a BS400, albeit an old one. They will both do what you ask of them.

That said, the Hammer is superb and if you can stretch to the price go for it, you will not be disappointed. I know people who bought BS400's and decided to return them however I have yet to meet a Hammer owner who has done this.

Just my opinion.
 

AJB Temple

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You are comparing DIY with genuine trade. If you plan light use, Record is probably fine (but has plastic knobs etc and Record test their kit via consumer returns in practice). You pays your money and makes your choice.

I have a couple of bits of Record gear (disk sander and lathe). I would not have them at the top of my list if I planned heavy use. Disk sander was replaced by Record after a few hours use and has since has a capacitor failure and a switch failure. Lathe has been OK, but I don't use it much.
 

Ttrees

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Always going to recommend sencondhand but new..
Are both showrooms local?
Like for like would be the 503 vs the N4400, add ACM, Jet, Laguna to name a few aswell as Holtzmann and Charnwood.
Axi seem to only do stout looking smaller saws now.
What do you want to do with it, rip and resaw mostly, or cut curves half the time?

What I'd want if its for ripping/resawing is weight, as its the best bet the frame will tension a 3/4" blade to a decent amount.
I wouldn't care too much about tool free guides on something that can cope without them.
That would be that 503 weighing 220kg , or an ACM saw on top of that list.

The guides on some cheaper machines are made from pot metal, and going back and fourth might
be the end of them...
Open to correction on this, but I don't believe any have the same mounting bar system that can take those premium guides like you'd see on the Italian/European and Wadkin's.

If I wanted to use a small blade often then tool-less guides are a lot nicer.
The tires on the N4400 are flat which might make adjusting the tracking a bit more effort going back and fourth if swapping blades compared to crowned tires.
Someone who has nice flat tires can chime in here as my ones are a bit of both due to its former life.
I can't comment on this.

I chose my saw and the previous budget saw (that needed to go back) for ripping and resawing
I would want to see the saw running in person before I parted with my cash on a budget machine.
Simple as they are they can be troublesome.

Check for no fluttering of blades with guides out of the way,
Check guidepost is moving parallel with the blade.
This you can set guides close, any sideways misalignments will contact a side roller guide
as will be apparent with the thrust guide rubbing against the back of the blade if not right either.

Apart from the table being way out, not much else to go wrong.
Wheel bearings are as cheap as a pint if you need them.
I suppose you could argue over motor quality also.

Am I making a case for secondhand yet? :roll:

Tom
 

shed9

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Ttrees":3034aewi said:
The tires on the N4400 are flat which might make adjusting the tracking a bit more effort going back and fourth if swapping blades compared to crowned tires.
Someone who has nice flat tires can chime in here as my ones are a bit of both due to its former life.
I can't comment on this.
To jump in again, can't say I have ever had a tracking issue in initial setup or during use with the Hammer. I appreciate comparing a BS400 to an N4400 is not a fair comparison but then I read the OP's choice as one between a higher end consumer unit or a lower end pro unit, i.e. is the cost difference worth it. When I bought mine it was a toss up between the Startrite you mention and the Hammer version. The Startrite at the time was, as is now, the more cost effective option and to be honest there is little between them. They both have pedigree and have similar spec.

As up there, in my opinion if you can stretch to the better saw go for it. I have yet to regret buying better kit whereas buying the cheaper of two options is less consistent. I know there is a limited mindset within the forum that paying more for equipment can be folly and will often point the finger at the individual for not being able to bandsaw wood with some elastic bands, sharp spoons and an ironing board but equipment is built to a price point. That's the choice being made here, what level of design and manufacture makes sense for your pocket offset against your needs and expectations.

Price depreciation is also something to consider. The BS400 seems to drop 25-35% whereas you may probably see a larger drop with the Hammer. That said, the used route would then be in your favour and you and your descendants won't end up on Felders xmas card list until the end of time if you don't buy new.
 

Prizen

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shed9":3ffss49i said:
That said, the used route would then be in your favour and you and your descendants won't end up on Felders xmas card list until the end of time if you don't buy new.
:-D :-D :-D
 

Ttrees

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"Quote Shed9"
"To jump in again, can't say I have ever had a tracking issue in initial setup or during use"

Shed9
I wasn't referring to any possible issues or setup with the flat tires.
I am curious on the amount of winding on the tracking wheel, if going regularly between narrow and wide blades compared to a saw with crowned tires.
If it is a noticeable amount compared with another saw that you may have used?
This wouldn't be an issue whatsoever, for anyone who had not experienced this,
I was merely curious.

Whatever the saw, take off the tension from the blade when adjusting the tracking wheel
or you risk damaging the threads, especially if installing a wide blade.
My tracking bolt is shorter now, because I only half done this, along with the previous owner.

Tom
 
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