Record Power BS300 tensioner broken

[Wuffles]

I've been playing around with this all afternoon, trying to figure out why it won't tension and it turns out the thread appears to have stripped itself?

Can't loosen the top handle fitting to just replace with a bit of threaded bar either. Would this normally be a simple fix, I can't believe it's happened if I'm honest.

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[Wuffles]

Actually, the metal butcher is currently in session

It was very stripped indeed.

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[CHJ]

Not an unknown problem I'm afraid, amazing so many brands skimp on the metal quality and/or stock dimension for something that is obviously going to take and be adjusted under load with little or no lubrication.

 

[Myfordman]

After finding a replacement make a brass or bronze nut and grease the thread and it should last longer.

 

[Wuffles]

Can't figure out how the handle end connects, I've tried drilling it out as it wouldn't come out with a vice and set of mole grips. I can see "easy adjustment" being a feature lacking on this particular band saw very very soon.

 

[CHJ]

On one machine I made up a longer sleeve nut from hex bar for someone, this spread the load over 30mm or so of threads, spindle was repaired by connecting a short length of all-thread to the cut off shaft with a sleeve and grub screws. If it ever happens on my machine I suspect I will do likewise and go up in diameter for the stud and nut.

 

[Wuffles]

On one machine I made up a longer sleeve nut from hex bar for someone, this spread the load over 30mm or so of threads, spindle was repaired by connecting a short length of all-thread to the cut off shaft with a sleeve and grub screws. If it ever happens on my machine I suspect I will do likewise and go up in diameter for the stud and nut.

There is a sound my brain is making when reading that, sort of a whooshing noise

I think I'd need a picture.

Meanwhile, I should be able to get this one back up and running in the meanwhile with the threaded bar I had knocking about.

 

[CHJ]

I think I'd need a picture.

 

[Wuffles]

Riiiiight. I got you. I was going to weld a nut onto the protruding bit and make an iffy handle of sorts.

I'll take a photo of that nonsense for you if I do it tonight.

I'm struggling to see how it should work, there's a couple of nuts between the handle section and the long washer that I'm not sure should be tight against anything.


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[woodpig]

The tensioner was one of the first things I replaced on mine.

record-bs300e-upgrades-t54641.html

I used stainless threaded rod and it's not worn at all. I also fitted a thrust washer and a decent handle.

 

[Wuffles]

I'll have a read later, thanks all.

Doesn't look as good as this though does it?

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[Wuffles]

So, it turns out I'd already read that thread and more or less ignored all of it, 'cos that's how I roll.

But, one thing did strike me, yours is a newer model I think, looks like a different tensioning "rod" length, unless I'm wrong? I was struggling to get my head around how it all goes together to actually create any kind of tension, but I think I got there in the end.

How do you lot check for the right tension - I'd imagine the built in "yellow" arrow is rubbish?

I'm rocking a shiny new M42 3tpi blade - that's how this all came about, Ian delivered that today and it was then I realised the tensioner must have been stuffed for a while, which explained the cr@ppy cuts I'd been getting - I thought it was the older Tuffsaws blade that was in there was knackered, perhaps not.

 

[woodpig]

Mines the BS300E model, you'd have to compare the exploded diagrams of the two models to see if there's a difference in the tensioner.
The original tensioner rod and knob from mine is shown in the picture above though.

I use the tension indicator as a basic guide on mine but check the deflection of the blade if in doubt.

Alex has posted a link to a YouTube video on blade tension before, hopefully he'll be along in a minute!

 

[Alexam]

The video for tensioning is at the bottom of this post:-
THE BEST FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well, but if you want to get the best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
For checking the tension of your blade - A Flutter test Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8zZuDosSy0

The yellow indicator is only an 'approximation' as already stated, but set it there to start with, then do the test above, but you do need to have set the blade in the right position first,with gullet of the teeth in the centre of the upper wheel and the guides and read bearings just off touching.

Malcolm

 

[Wuffles]

I've posted the Alex Snodgrass video myself before now, so I'm all over that. I'll try the flutter test video later.

Thanks.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Going back to the original problem (stripped thread), Toolstation do what they call "Connector Nuts":
M8: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86819

I've had the same problem on my SIP, but thankfully it hasn't gone completely yet. I treat it as a regular lubrication task (usually hypoid oil). I find it bound too much if I merely greased it, and picked up far too much sawdust too. It still picks up sawdust, but it can be removed more easily with a paintbrush and a vacuum cleaner nozzle. (Probably doesn't hurt even if it's left, I suppose). I was also using the wrong grease, I'd guess (but I tried copperslip and lithium, being what I had handy).

The tensioning arrangement is pretty rubbish, but it seems to be almost identical on all saws that size.

E.

 

[woodpig]

The tensioning arrangement is pretty rubbish, but it seems to be almost identical on all saws that size.

It's also compounded by using poor quality steel for the parts.

 

[sunnybob]

Arent they all such crap? My new axminster 350N adjuster has a spring to (presumably) keep the tension steady under load.
Guess what, it doesnt. It compresses completely with every coil touching way before any blade achieves the flutter test standard. It serves no function at all except as a spacer.

woodworking machines have to have the worst quality control of any other type of machine.

 

[Wuffles]

I'm drawing a bit of a blank with the crank(ed) handle. Amazon or nothing from what I can tell. Any suggestions of places that do this kind of thing so I can grab a few bits together? I've tried all the local outfits - including Nuts & Bolts, but nada.

 

[Eric The Viking]

http://www.axminster.co.uk/accessor...s/general-machinery-accessories/handles-knobs

I bought some of their handwheels - eminently suitable for this but will need a boss as they're 12mm i.d.