Quickest way to stabilise crack in hardwood?

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Prizen

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Hi all

I have a 40mm thick slab of ash with a substantial crack going from the end 12” long( piece is 6ft long total) , about 5mm at its widest and the depth is getting very close to full thickness, probably 35mm.

It is for a desktop and
 
If you fancy going down the route of filling it with epoxy, Blacktail studio on youtube has some great videos that give a lot of tips and tricks. He does a lot of river tables but also has videos where he shows filling cracks like you mention.
 
Be aware that epoxy probably won't stop the crack expanding, or the crack extending, if that's what the slab wants to do.

Your first step is to get the slab to the same humidity condition as where the table will live, and to be sure its fully acclimatised to that humidity. If so, it won't move (much) more. It would be sensible to cleat the underside for safety, before filling.

If the slab isn't fully dried to that level, it will keep moving.
 
Once the slab is stable, start by wicking in runny cyano (superglue). This binds the very tip of the split, reached where even warmed-up epoxy doesn’t. I like to fill shakes with layers of shavings and PVA . Surprisingly strong, stable and difficult to spot if done well
 
I've never used a butterfly, but just wondering, if you have a butterfly on one side, limiting movement, would it not still allow the opposing face to move and turn splitting into cupping? or do you put butterflies on both sides to equalise the pressures?
 
👋 me, me, ask me!
😆 like being back at school

How about kitchen worktop clamps set in underneath?? They can end up roughly central in the slab
 
How about kitchen worktop clamps set in underneath?? They can end up roughly central in the slab
I have to say for function, speed and cost that is an ingenious solution, the only question I'd have is whether they'd be strong enough, after all worktops would be pretty stable (no expansion to speak of) , so the clamps would normally only really be holding together a butt joint for glue up. ?
 
I have to say for function, speed and cost that is an ingenious solution, the only question I'd have is whether they'd be strong enough, after all worktops would be pretty stable (no expansion to speak of) , so the clamps would normally only really be holding together a butt joint for glue up. ?
I'd be thinking they are just helping to stabilise, not to close anything, so I'd put 2 in 100mm in from the end and 200mm in, then just tighten up and add a bit more pressure. If o.p wanted, he could epoxy fill first, then route and fit clamps leaving them accessible in the future. Of course, if the timber can be taken down in moisture just beyond the the oevel of its final resting place, then jointed, it should only really swell a touch, not shrink. I.e, dont epoxy the gap unless moisture content is at or below the house conditions 🤷‍♂️
 
I have to say for function, speed and cost that is an ingenious solution, the only question I'd have is whether they'd be strong enough, after all worktops would be pretty stable (no expansion to speak of) , so the clamps would normally only really be holding together a butt joint for glue up. ?
More than strong enough if the slab is now dry 10% or less
 
There are special products just for such repairs. Mixture of colouring, adhesive and filler.This might give you a hint. If I find the one I remember, I'll post it.
Found it. This is repair. Less sure of adhesive action
 
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Put a butterfly in, doesn't take long, it's a skill someone who is making furniture should be able to accomplish with ease.
 
How far is the crack from the final edge?
Drive a screw in from the edge to bridge the crack.
Well you did ask for the quickest method 😉
Brian
 
To stop the crack propagating, drill a hole at the end where the two sides come together, then plug with timber. IIRC this is a method used to stop cracks in metal getting worse. If others on here thought it would work, you needn't use a round void you could chisel out a suitable shape.
 

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