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Thats about as ambitious as you can get on that lathe. The stand is a bit light so likely not helping either. I also sometimes resort to an electric plane to take off the high spots on out of balance blanks. For those wanting to try this its with the lathe stopped. Skim some off, spin up and if still too much bounce stop, identify heavy point and repeat. The heavy point rotates to the bottom if you take the belt tension off. Easy to do on those lathes where the weight of the motor supplies the tension.
Regards
John
Definately at the limits of the lathe, even now I can't get the tool rest under the piece which is a PITA but if I reduce it down to get the rest under it I will have to drastically reduce the length too or the whole thing will look out of proportion. I'll get it there just gonna be a slow process. Need to get some more shaping done then a good amount of hardener on it to get my final cuts done.
 
@paulrbarnard that's beautiful. I only just started the other half present today and to be honest it's scaring the cr@p out of me at the minute, I mounted it between centres then had to use a small plane to remove some high spots, then on my lowest speed (450) I had to chase the lathe around the garage while I rounded it off, it bounced so much that even now with it "rounded" it still wobbles isn't perfectly round to the centres.
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More wood than lathe................I love it.
 
This year's Christmas presents for the family

These build on the prototype pot-pourri style box I made last September, For these I have embellished the kumiko lids with more detail. The boxes are made from beech offcuts with maple lining. The kumiko is also cut from maple.

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A couple of photos from the journey

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This year's Christmas presents for the family

These build on the prototype pot-pourri style box I made last September, For these I have embellished the kumiko lids with more detail. The boxes are made from beech offcuts with maple lining. The kumiko is also cut from maple.

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A couple of photos from the journey

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Wow those are stunning, bet it takes some serious patience to put all those little pieces together.
 
As Stigmorgan is posting pictures of logs I thought I'd join in. I was given a few Yew logs some time ago and I thought they would have dried out enough to use for Christmas presents. However the logs were much wetter than I expected and turning them was like unwrapping hot spaghetti.
I wanted to show the contrasting colours of the grain on a pot with a lid I was making but realised that none of the heart wood would show so I gave it a stem which makes it a bit urn like, rather morbid. I went in just over 10cm which was quite difficult with such a tight space to work inside.
I decided that candle sticks would show up the colours better. I've had to cook the pieces in the microwave to get them dry enough to put some wax on.
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As Stigmorgan is posting pictures of logs I thought I'd join in. I was given a few Yew logs some time ago and I thought they would have dried out enough to use for Christmas presents. However the logs were much wetter than I expected and turning them was like unwrapping hot spaghetti.
I wanted to show the contrasting colours of the grain on a pot with a lid I was making but realised that none of the heart wood would show so I gave it a stem which makes it a bit urn like, rather morbid. I went in just over 10cm which was quite difficult with such a tight space to work inside.
I decided that candle sticks would show up the colours better. I've had to cook the pieces in the microwave to get them dry enough to put some wax on.
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Those are gorgeous 😍.
My sycamore log combined with what I'm sure is failing bearings are kicking the cr@p out of me, got it as close to shape as I could, could only turn at slowest speed without it bouncing all over the place as long as I only took light scraping cuts which still left a huge amount of tear out, ive spent 7 hours working on it today and about 4 of those are sanding at 60grit to fine tune the shape and remove the tear out. I now have it to a shape I'm happy with and I've filled all cracks and a few bug holes with a 3d pearlescent stuff I bought at poundland yesterday, it sets like a resin, so far doesn't seem to soak into the wood so should sand back quite nicely.
 
It's big but there's very little weight in it and it's a lot smaller than when I started, there's easily an inch and a half between the piece and the bed, the wobble is only out at the end and I can feel the back bearing pulsing as it spins, a few of my smaller pieces have had tool marks opposite eachother as if the piece was slightly oval, I had assumed it was down to the wood distorting during turning but now I'm not sure, I think I'm going to replace the bearings regardless, at least then I will know for sure.
 
Lefly
that pot is lovly.....can I ask how u got the gree colour....
was it just stain.....?

Stigmorgan,
was there a vid at the bottom of ur last post...got the arrow but no vid.....
just interested....

Plus as it's Xmas, anyone made any of those hollow tree novelties as in Fine Woodwrking....?
 
Lefly
that pot is lovly.....can I ask how u got the gree colour....
was it just stain.....?

Stigmorgan,
was there a vid at the bottom of ur last post...got the arrow but no vid.....
just interested....

Plus as it's Xmas, anyone made any of those hollow tree novelties as in Fine Woodwrking....?
The video is there for me, not sure why you can't play it, it's only 15seconds long
 
Lefly
that pot is lovly.....can I ask how u got the gree colour....
was it just stain.....?

Stigmorgan,
was there a vid at the bottom of ur last post...got the arrow but no vid.....
just interested....

Plus as it's Xmas, anyone made any of those hollow tree novelties as in Fine Woodwrking....?
The color is achieved by coloured resin. I put the block of maple in a vacuum chamber with the color or colors of resin poured in. I weight the wood down so under resin. Then pull a vacuum which sucks all air outta wood. When bubbles slow down turn off vacuum and release lid. Resin replaces air in wood. I then bake at 200f to activate resin. Then I turn it. The softer parts take more resin while the harder parts less or none . This is a box I did for the fireman’s ball as a donation. It was done with two colors to try and create flames,
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The color is achieved by coloured resin. I put the block of maple in a vacuum chamber with the color or colors of resin poured in. I weight the wood down so under resin. Then pull a vacuum which sucks all air outta wood. When bubbles slow down turn off vacuum and release lid. Resin replaces air in wood. I then bake at 200f to activate resin. Then I turn it. The softer parts take more resin while the harder parts less or none . This is a box I did for the fireman’s ball as a donation. It was done with two colors to try and create flames, View attachment 124598
Wow very effective!
 
Just made a bookcase for a Catholic School who wanted the inscribed top and waney edge sides "to make it look like it was coming out of a tree". 3 shelves were mortice and tenon, the rest housing joints. Made from solid olive wood to the customer's spec. A couple of "in work" photos too.
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Took most of today but I got the outside finished, hollowed out as much as I could with is a disappointing 4 inches but I was getting more catches than cuts. Having started the hollowing I can now really see how bad the wobble is, one section of the rim is 5mm while the opposite side is 10mm. Something really isn't right and I can think of 3 possible reasons,
Headstock bearings (I can feel a "pulse" in the back one)
Tailstock live centre bearings (cheap from amazon)
The stand /floor isn't level
So I'm going g to be ordering new bearings in the new year when I'm back from holiday, while on holiday I'll be visiting Yandles and plan to pick up a couple of new live centres and I'm considering removing the stand and bolting the lathe to the cabinet worktop and try find somewhere else for everything stored there


 
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