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Morning Mr Neophyte, they look really comfortable, but that’s a hell of a lot of joints! I like doing laminate work, and people are always impressed and want to know how it’s done, the trick if you didn’t know with that glue is that you don’t touch it until it’s set and then just break it off and remove all traces of it before varnishing, I’ve never known it to open up a joint though, interesting I’ll keep an eye on it next time. I had a problem recently using Evo stick weatherproof, it isn’t at all, so will be using the old gorilla foamy stuff a bit more for outdoor work in future .Ian
Thank you for your advice: I am blaming the glue, but I only had 3 clamps big enough to work, so tried some ratchet straps as well, but I don't think there was enough clamping force to pull it together, despite looking fine in the dry run. Still, blame the glue! I was initially thinking of screws, but the wife said "do it properly", so here we are. Think of it as tenon practice. Re the cleanup, I did as you suggest, but it seems I didn't clean well enough between all the slats. For the laminated parts I plane it all, which fixes everything. You can't plane in between each slat, so wiggling thin chisels and sandpaper was my solution. Next time I will try using pva glue, and do the staining before the glue up. I will still use the polyurethane for the laminates, because it's much better, and it's dry in 3 hours.
 
Taste is subjective so what you like and what someone else likes are rarely going to be in line with each other.
No argument from me about that.
I could have been more polite
Absolutely you should have.
the OP doesn't care about other people's opinions.
That's not what I read, he said he didn't give a fig what you think.

Hopefully you didn't intend it to read the way it did as usually your posts aren't rude or perhaps in Hungary people are more blunt.
My like it comment btw was genuine as I have one of those Jaguar car mascots and as you admitted we all have different tastes.
 
A small tapered leg pot stand for the bathroom palm. Although as the artistic director has put the palm in a gap behind the bath I could have got away with a plastic crate....

IMG_20200909_181433.jpg
 
H
The ongoing saga of bendy wood (lamination) - a sun lounger for the tourists. This is actually a proof of concept, as until someone lay down on it I had no idea if it would be comfortable or not. Luckily it has passed the lounging around test.

View attachment 91812

There are a number of things badly wrong with it: I used the wrong (foaming polyurethane ) glue for the mortice and tennon joints, which seems to have opened them all up. Very gappy. The glue was a nightmare to clean up, and the finish (light oak stained varnish) shows up where I thought I had cleaned up the glue but hadn't. I hand cut the mortices for the legs so badly I would have started again if it was real work. I also stopped work to make a mortice gauge, I was so appalled by my lack of skill, but without a mortice gauge, I didn't mark out the mortice for the gauge very well, so it isn't brilliant. Seems to be a chicken and egg thing. Now I have a mortice gauge, I can make a mortice gauge properly.

Still, we have 64 mortices (60 cut with a router and jig, which on bendy wood was interesting), and lots of table saw practice. Also cutting tenons (or is it tennons?) on table saw, band saw, and a mix of the two gave me some good experience. I do know that I need another 2 slats at the head end, so the prototype (ie the next one) will be a tad longer. I also know I need more experience being accurate, so I need to churn out a few of these.

The really sad thing is that at no point, ever, will I lie in the sun on one of these. Still, tourists like that sort of thing, and bought sun loungers cost a fortune and only last 2 years before the sun destroys them. I am hoping for a better return on investment with this.
Hi, Looks comfy!
Did you consider notching the laminations pre glue up to form the mortices for the slats, rather than cutting them after?
 
No argument from me about that.

Absolutely you should have.

That's not what I read, he said he didn't give a fig what you think.

Hopefully you didn't intend it to read the way it did as usually your posts aren't rude or perhaps in Hungary people are more blunt.
My like it comment btw was genuine as I have one of those Jaguar car mascots and as you admitted we all have different tastes.

You sound like my wife in that you insist on making a drama out of absolutely anything.
 
Incredible for a first project PaulArther, and dovetails, is there a drawer to follow?
Looks like American Ash, I do quite a bit with that, works nicely and reasonably priced. Ian
The panels at the side of the void are two drawers. They’re on runners as I didn’t want visible handles and so I thought the would open better that way. The gap in the middle is for easy access storage. I’m not sure it was really the best option though... maybe next time I’ll do a full width drawer.
 
The panels at the side of the void are two drawers........

See the little set-back they have? Well next time (! :) ) if you were to have a little overhang of the upper body of the piece over the sub-structure you'd go from a 9-1/2 to a 10 out of 10. Just 4-6mm all round is all it needs. There's just a slight awkwardness where the ends with their excellent dovetails sit flush with the aprons below. Not a criticism so much as a critique, because it is a lovely piece.
 
Does that have an apron, or are the legs set directly into the top?

It's a bit of a hatchet job, the legs are just housed in, glued and screwed. It won't take any real weight but it doesn't have to. When I've got a bit of time I might try and make a proper version with some decent wood and aprons but the angles are going to make my brain bleed.
 
H

Hi, Looks comfy!
Did you consider notching the laminations pre glue up to form the mortices for the slats, rather than cutting them after?

No, because that would be clever. Really clever. There would be issues with the glue filling up the mortices, but other than that...can't fault it. The mortice would have to be the thickness of one lamination layer only, but that would be 10mm instead of 12 - I don't think it would be huge problem. The real benefit would be having the mortice exactly in line with the edge of the wood, no matter which way it was bending. I'm going to have to try this. Thank you.
 
No, because that would be clever. Really clever. There would be issues with the glue filling up the mortices, but other than that...can't fault it. The mortice would have to be the thickness of one lamination layer only, but that would be 10mm instead of 12 - I don't think it would be huge problem. The real benefit would be having the mortice exactly in line with the edge of the wood, no matter which way it was bending. I'm going to have to try this. Thank you.
No probs. May I suggest using the plastic straw trick to remove glue from the mortises?
 
No probs. May I suggest using the plastic straw trick to remove glue from the mortises?

Not with PU glue. Leave it until it sets, but before it goes rock hard, then remove with a chisel, scraper or knife. If you try to clean it up with a straw, a cloth, or anything else whilst it is still wet, you'll end up with an almighty mess in quite a hurry.
 
Not with PU glue. Leave it until it sets, but before it goes rock hard, then remove with a chisel, scraper or knife. If you try to clean it up with a straw, a cloth, or anything else whilst it is still wet, you'll end up with an almighty mess in quite a hurry.
Neophyte said he was going to try again with pva glue. My suggestion was based on this
 
Neophyte said he was going to try again with pva glue. My suggestion was based on this

Ah, sorry. I missed that. Obviously he'll need waterproof PVA. The classic way to deal with PVA squeeze-out is to have a coat of the finish on the timber first, pre-gluing, then just wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag.
 
Best Boy's Cheapo Chinese bike's twistgrip broke, nipple pulled through the plastic... Temp repair got him going but left him with a sticky throttle, time for a new twistgrip barrel:

"Oh, they all do that" and "no, don't get the call for 'em" - Grrrr

So:

twistgrip barrel.jpg
Two sawcuts to add - he can do *some* of it, eh?

Dave H. (the other one)
 
Ah, sorry. I missed that. Obviously he'll need waterproof PVA. The classic way to deal with PVA squeeze-out is to have a coat of the finish on the timber first, pre-gluing, then just wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag.
Thank you both for the help. The lamination will be done with polyurethane, because pva sets far too fast, and it also gives a better result with the laminations (it makes them virtually invisible). I will try doing the slats with pva, on the basis that the cleanup will be easier in between all the slats, in the fiddly gaps etc. I was also hoping to put the finish on (or at least the stain) before I glue it together. Is that feasible? (Edit: actually read all of Mike 's answer this time - will apply the finish first).

Currently I am making some new clamps (How to make your own wooden sash cramps) but I had an epiphany yesterday - I have enough clamps (for this job, at least) but they are not long enough, so I will try making some sort of extensions for them as well. It might work. I'm thinking piece of wood with a hole at one end for the clamp head, and a right angled piece to hold on to the work, possibly with a mortice and tenon joint. It's all a voyage of discovery at this point.
 
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