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Stigmorgan

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Hi guys, so at work I am stripping the paint from the walls of a store cupboard in the kitchen due to the old (50yrs old) paint looking like crazy paving, I'm using a heat gun and scraper and it's doing a pretty good job but the plaster behind the paint also looks like crazy paving with hairline cracks all over the place, would it be worth putting on a coat of PVA (being a primary school I have gallons of it available 😀) and letting it seal the cracks up before painting?
 
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def a good move but having probs in the past I always use the water resistance type now.....

on the same subject, if u have a dried out damp stain say on the ceiling a cheap but succsessful way to cover it is plain old oil based primer or undercoat.....those fancy sprays dont always work......
Having rebuilt a lot of old properties often where the plaster and painted wall surfaces are marginal I paint the entire room with undercoat...
it soaks in and holds everything together plus there are no patches of diff colour to cover......
My house is all painted plaster....modern emulsion aint so good at covering so for a couple of rooms that get strong sunlight, hence showing deep into the paint surface they will be undercoated this winter.....
And yes the whole house inside n out gets repainted practically everyear.....sick of it...
thinking of getting a power sprayer for the ext.....any suggestions...dont wanna pay 2 grand....
 
Erbauer ERB561SRG

Anyone tried one if these hvlp sprayers cheaper than the named brands.

Do they cause much spray back.

I have a Santa sleigh to paint at the end of the week.
 
Erbauer ERB561SRG

Anyone tried one if these hvlp sprayers cheaper than the named brands.

Do they cause much spray back.

I have a Santa sleigh to paint at the end of the week.
Pants. You can't beat a proper turbine unit.

A HVLP (turbine) - very little spray\bounce back. What usually lands somewhere else (floor etc) will most likely be "dust", i.e. dried.

What paint are you using?
 
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I would size those walls, leave overnight then put Wallrock paper on top. It covers a multitude of problems like that and doesn't shrink. Also, it's paste the wall, so it's easy to put up.
 
Pants. You can't beat a proper turbine unit.

A HVLP (turbine) - very little spray\bounce back. What usually lands somewhere else (floor etc) will most likely be "dust", i.e. dried.

What paint are you using?
Thick old fashioned enamel.
 
I would size those walls, leave overnight then put Wallrock paper on top. It covers a multitude of problems like that and doesn't shrink. Also, it's paste the wall, so it's easy to put up.
I cant paper the walls, there is racking that's built in around a radiator, to take it out I would have to take it completely apart and I wouldn't have time to rebuild it.

Excuse the heavy breathing, with the door shut to strip the wall behind its like a sweat box in there.
 
Undercoat seems optimum?
That bare plaster, there was only a thin white coat under an equally thin green coat of paint, quite a lot of hairline cracks have appeared so will give it a coat of PVA then see if I have time to repaint, if not then it will have to stay as bare plaster.
 
Is getting a plasterer in to skim it out of the question? With that much flaking, how much more will come off?
They won't even let me buy new paint, I'm having to use tins left over from a job 4 years ago so a plasterer is def not an option, fortunately the plaster has only cracked and not falling off the wall, got 1 coat of pain on this morning, about to put the 2nd on now.
 
In the past I have used textured paint to cover these sorts of defects.

I'm not sure whether this is an accurate description, but I would describe it as a fairly thick flexible coating with particles the size of sand grains embedded. I am not particularly recommending this - but it seems similar to that I have used previously.

Textured paint
 
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