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The Gluelams were ‘glued and pinned’ on installation, so the joins of laminated beam to laminated beam cannot be taken apart I’m told and still be allowable to use as load bearing structures. I stated the dimensions of the largest beams inaccurately in my earlier post, they are 640x280 and very long.
 
Your architect pays for the scaffolding and buys you a mafell portable bandsaw and a wide power plane to reduce the height of the beams in situ (back to the specified size) ?
It depends on how the joints have been formed whether this could work.
 
Huge additional cost I know, and not what you wanted, but could you get the extra room by using steel beams instead of your laminate ones. I'm guessing they could be quite a bit smaller for the same load bearing capacity? Desperate times calling for desperate measures etc. You must be gutted.
 
However the GlueLam has been made too thick, it’s just over 100mm too thick, great for strength
What does the architect say, have the beams been made thicker for any reason such as load / span and are they to drawing ? If not then you have been supplied the wrong beams so you may have a claim against the supplier, a bit unusual in that they have supplied more than asked for though.

You need to get your architect, builder and the beam supplier together for a chat.

Fully agree on not wanting a flat roof, just trouble in waiting. Maybe a lower pitch but not flat and suitable tiles

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What I was thinking is that if the window end is low enough to suit the boss and you have 20° pitch but not enough headroom then raise the outer end of the beams to reduce pitch below 20° whilst gaining headroom, just need suitable low pitch tiles.
 
What I was thinking is that if the window end is low enough to suit the boss and you have 20° pitch but not enough headroom then raise the outer end of the beams to reduce pitch below 20° whilst gaining headroom, just need suitable low pitch tiles.
That’s a really neat idea, thank you.
 
Agree with Spectric's advice, you need both architect and beam supplier in to discuss the potential impact on loading - at shallower pitches snow can become an issue.
 
What I was thinking is that if the window end is low enough to suit the boss and you have 20° pitch but not enough headroom then raise the outer end of the beams to reduce pitch below 20° whilst gaining headroom, just need suitable low pitch tiles.
Nothing like a bit of lateral thinking! Good idea. 30cm up on the low side should equal 30cm down on the high side, assuming the main beam is in the middle.

You can go as shallow as 10 degrees if needed with the right tile: Planum Clay Interlocking Low Pitch Roof Tile - 10° but I wouldn’t have thought it would have that much impact on angle though.

Fingers crossed you find a solution!
 
1 drop the problem on architect (that’s what you pay the big bucks for ) if it’s his mistake he has to pay to sort it
2 get the joiner/roofers together it’s amazing what they can do to fix a problem
Paul
 
There is a way to turn led light into almost daylight, at least from the visibility point of view. I can give details on the matter but only if someone is interested, don't want to spam this post.

Regards,
Brad
I’d also be interested in this as I’m about to convert my windowless garage into a workshop …although compared to the OP it feels maybe inappropriate to call it that. Mine feels a bit more like a Fischer Price workshop by contrast 🤣

@deema have you considered installing any kind of hoist system to help you to move heavy parts around? I’m thinking maybe a track in the ceiling with a winch attached that could pick up a heavy slab by the door and then lift it and be slid to the back of the workshop, or even with a path from machine to machine. If I had your kind of dream budget it’s something I would want to install.

Keep the updates coming though please I’m very envious but equally as fascinated 🍻
 
Sorry to hear your woes Deema and hope you find a solution. If you end up having to bin the gluelam, you could section it up and sell it for the most awesome Roubo workbench tops ;)

Just remember the human mind is great at forgetting travesty, else you'd not get drunk more than once or have more than one child (as a woman). Once your workshop is built you'll soon forget the stress of the build and you'll have the most amazing workshop to pootle in for years to come!
 
A day of further measuring, talking and brain storming with everyone involved and we have found a solution that as with these things has to include some compromises. The construction of the roof is going to be changed to drop it by 6” and by a few other modifications that affect the wall plates and the floor construction it just about retains the internal ceiling height. Everyone involved is pulling together and we have should still achieve the completion dates by working over the next couple of weekends to get back on track.…..assuming weather allows! Phew, I have to say, I was in a low place yesterday!
 
So you have managed to keep the steeper pitch, also sounds like you are making the floor lower or have I misread something. If so make sure you don't end up with any water ingress issues as solving one issue to end up with another is never good.
 
The pitch is reduced from 25 to 22.5, the minimum the selected roofing material can handle for severe conditions. By hanging the rafters rather than birds mouth to the purlins reduced the height of the roof. We are increasing the height of the wall plates by 75mm to give me slightly more headroom. We are also looking at changing the insulation in the roof and under the floor to much higher performing material to reduce the thickness required to both lower the floor and also raise the finished height of the coiling.
To build within permitted development and aesthetically create something my wife is happy with pushed to the very limits the headroom I wanted / needed. So every mm makes a difference.
 

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