marking gauge, should the blade turn?

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Mistitled though. He doesn't show how to use a marking gauge "correctly" he just shows how he personally uses one and takes about 12 minutes too long in the process. He gets basics wrong - somehow nobody has ever showed him why a marking gauge should be pushed rather than pulled. :rolleyes:

These gauges are pulled. He's holding the gauge at fingertips, though (ouch), whereas they work well held almost like a suitcase handle with the thumb past the fence bearing down on the beam.

Some folks on here with the veritas or titemark gauge are going to go out and try to push it and wonder if you're making an attempt at humor - or wonder why you consider something applicable to pin gauges (though it's confusing as to why pushing those is "right" - they work the same either way) will be the same for wheels.
 
I dont understand why you think it wouldn't cut if it turns? It's a circle, 360 degree sharp. It may cut differently to a stationary wheel, but it will cut.
Does a pizza cutter not turn? Does it cut?

I understand your point but think it would be the case that both cut but the slicing action of the fixed blade cuts more effectively and is more accurate.

Whether it does or doesn’t the Veritas one is definitely fixed and works perfectly being so. Someone may come along and point out that I’m an untalented hobbyist who doesn’t understand how to use one with a rotating wheel in due course though 😉
 
I understand your point but think it would be the case that both cut but the slicing action of the fixed blade cuts more effectively and is more accurate.

Whether it does or doesn’t the Veritas one is definitely fixed and works perfectly being so. Someone may come along and point out that I’m an untalented hobbyist who doesn’t understand how to use one with a rotating wheel in due course though 😉

Well, if you go to the moderators of a forum and complain because you're not getting enough appreciation (adulation) for blog spamming your site, blurt out that you build complicated things and I only build simple things, and the pretend to be publicly humorous about it, I'd probably voice my displeasure. That's what Derek does.

But, we're all basically untalented amateurs. I am, too. Sometimes other people seem to forget that they are also - it leads to strange definitive statements that have a shallow basis and are often incorrect.

(Richard excluded, as Richard's a pro - some others here may be, too).
 
Unless the wheel has bearings it is not meant to turn and any turning that it does do can add wobble and therefore make the line deviate.
My pizza cutter wobbles all over the place.
(Just noticed that this is my first message ! - Since joining in May - never thought of myself as a lurker before.)
First post and we have discover you like pizza 😜
 
But, we're all basically untalented amateurs. I am, too. Sometimes other people seem to forget that they are also - it leads to strange definitive statements that have a shallow basis and are often incorrect.

That’s just not true. There are many talented amateurs on here.

The issue as I see it is that we all (some more frequently than others) think that our way is the only way which is often not the case. Then there’s also the internet induced condition of always needing to have the last word 🤔
 
Well of course it doesn't matter either way if the job gets done but I was taught to mark, e.g. a 3' board, by starting say 9" from the further end and pushing to the end, then to bring it back 18" and join up with the first pass, etc ...
That's similar to my methodology for gauging a long line with the grain, except that I generally do the reverse and start at the end nearest to me, engage the pin and push forward for 300 - 400 mm, lift off, back off a bit, reengage and move forward again, rinse and repeat until I get to the end.

I get the impression that you've rowed back a bit from saying that pulling a marking gauge is wrong. As you say in your later post, "it doesn't matter either way if the job gets done", which I agree with. Slainte.
 
But, we're all basically untalented amateurs. I am, too. Sometimes other people seem to forget that they are also - it leads to strange definitive statements that have a shallow basis and are often incorrect.
(Richard excluded, as Richard's a pro - some others here may be, too).
As I'm aging David, I seem to be moving in the general direction of amateur status rather than full-time professional. I no longer have the drive to work in this furniture game seven days a week twelve hours per day. Nowadays I'm much more choosy about what work I'm willing to take on, and don't even mind if there isn't much work around for a wee while. There are quite a few other users here that are professionals, so you don't really need to single me out for a mention when you want to invoke the pro v amateur discussion (or perhaps argument), ha ha. Slainte.
 
.....

I get the impression that you've rowed back a bit from saying that pulling a marking gauge is wrong. As you say in your later post, "it doesn't matter either way if the job gets done", which I agree with. Slainte.
Except I think you get slightly more pressure and hence more accuracy by pushing (against/along) rather than pulling, and you start each sector in new wood rather than dropping it into the previous mark which may just have slipped off to follow a bit of grain. Nit picky but no more effort and every little helps!
 
Except I think you get slightly more pressure and hence more accuracy by pushing (against/along) rather than pulling
I agree because I generally find pushing the gauge easier than pulling, but it seems that some prefer to pull, and if it works for them, that's all that matters. Slainte.
 
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If I asked a question and was shown the limitations of the tool I'm using or was made aware of other possibilities, I would certainly welcome that. What I see frequently is recommendations of what to buy and opinions passed as authoritative statements. David may rub you in the wrong direction some times, but his insights are certainly valuable. I would certainly get pineappled off if I were to get a reply telling me what to post, who does this guy think he is?
 
With marking gauges I confess to making the simple complex - I've got a dozen or more! :oops:

Nah, that's not complicated Jacob, you just have a few more gauges than average. I've got a similar number...

Gauges.jpg

OK, that's a gratuitous drive-by gloat, & like I said, I could live with just a couple, but making them has become a bit of a hobby & good way to use up small but precious scraps (I gave up making pens 30 years ago), & helps cover the cost of my shed habit. :)

...... it's really useful to have several on the job from start to finish in case of omissions and revisions, rather than having to keep resetting one and sometimes getting it wrong.......

Exackery! I may have 3 or 4 out at once on occasion, and it's handy that they're all different so I can keep track of which is what. A couple of 'favourites' get the bulk of the everyday work, while a few, like the panel gauges, turned out to be far less essential than I thought. They come in handy about once a year, but are a luxury most get along just fine without...

And as my eyes fail, my lines get thicker too......
Cheers,
Ian
 
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Nah, that's not complicated Jacob, you just have a few more gauges than average. I've got a similar number...

View attachment 130150

OK, that's a gratuitous drive-by gloat, & like I said, I could live with just a couple, but making them has become a bit of a hobby & good way to use up small but precious scraps (I gave up making pens 30 years ago), & helps cover the cost of my shed habit. :)



Exackery! I may have 3 or 4 out at once on occasion, and it's handy that they're all different so I can keep track of which is what. A couple of 'favourites' get the bulk of the everyday work, while a few, like the panel gauges, turned out to be far less essential than I thought. They come in handy about once a year, but are a luxury most get along just fine without...

And as my eyes fail, my lines get thicker too......
Cheers,
Ian
Hi Ian, if you were willing to sell one of your “surplus” gauges, I would love to purchase it from you. Cheers Robyn
 
I’ve limited experience here, but recently used and liked a circular gauge on a course. My pin style one is old and stiff, and difficult to adjust precisely. The one I ordered (not a Veritas!) has this interesting description:
Newkiton Wheel Marking Gauge Pro with Micro Adjust Function, 1 Bearing Wheel Cutter for Soft Wood, 1 Locked Up Wheel Cutter for Hard Wood, 1 Screwdriver Included (Black)
 
I’ve limited experience here, but recently used and liked a circular gauge on a course. My pin style one is old and stiff, and difficult to adjust precisely. ........
A stiff wooden gauge is easy to loosen - about 30 seconds with a bit of sandpaper.
They are very easy to fine adjust by tightening and then tapping on the bench with one end or the other, then tighten a tad more to keep it set
 
I build "complicated". You eensult me! A duel at dawn. Choose your weapon!!



Lie-Nielsen ....

"Tite-Mark Marking Gauges

Unique micrometer adjustment makes this marking gauge the handiest and most accurate available. Steel shaft, Brass body, fixed circular A2 blade".

The Veritas versions are the same.

Regards from Perth

Derek
They may well not be designed to turn. I'd like to understand why, why it was designed NOT to turn. If it works I'll use it, it was an academic question.
You still haven't explained why you think a sharp wheel that turns doesn't cut.
 
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I understand your point but think it would be the case that both cut but the slicing action of the fixed blade cuts more effectively and is more accurate.

Whether it does or doesn’t the Veritas one is definitely fixed and works perfectly being so. Someone may come along and point out that I’m an untalented hobbyist who doesn’t understand how to use one with a rotating wheel in due course though 😉
It was purely an academic question. I'd like to understand why a fixed blade would work better.
 

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