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Making Shaker Style Doors

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Charlie Woody

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Hi

I need to make some Shaker Style Doors for my daughter's wardrobe and was thinking of doing them on my Woodrat (as I really need to learn to get to grips with that piece of kit). Rails and Stiles will be 19mm oak, with 7mm oak veneered (both faces) mdf.

Just being looking on Wealden's website and see that they have part no T4344 at a cost of £77.60.

This seems a lot of money - I know that people on here rate Wealden very highly - but I was wondering could I achieve the same result with part nos T1407S @ £19.70? I realise that I may have to make a number of passes to achieve the depth of groove I will need.
 

RogerP

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I'm in the midst of making a couple of dozen kitchen cabinet doors and have been using the Wealden T4000-1/2 Combination Bit. Works extremely well, it's very easy to change to and from stile to rail settings - just change the bit height. Not cheap at almost 60 quid - I think Axminster do a cheaper version.
 

Charlie Woody

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Hi Roger

Just looked at your recommendation. I did n't want either the Roman Ogee or or Classical profile, which was why I looked at the T4344. However both sets are outside my budget!

Do you think I could get away with using the T1407S?
 

Charlie Woody

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Thanks Chems ...... just concerned that they are Imperial, but my materials will be dimensioned in Metric.
 

9fingers

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Have you got a half decent table saw? Get yourself a flat top ground blade for it for less than half the price of that cutter and you can make those simple rail and style joints with ease.

I've not got a woodrat but each time I see one they seem to me like a solution looking for a problem. I know some folk swear by them but ....

Bob
 

xy mosian

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I have something similar to make. I will be using mdf throughout, but if it helps. My method is likely to be:- 6mm slotting cutter to groove rails, trim the panel thickness to fit, and groove the rail ends to use a loose tenon affair. All done with one cutter.

xy
 

Charlie Woody

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Hi Bob

Does this involve removing the riving knife and crown guard on the saw? If so how do I do this safely? The blades I have are from Cutting Solutions ... don't know if they do the type you are suggesting?

Hi XY
What make & part no cutter will you be using?
 

clk230

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worth doing a search on ebay for router bits still some bargains tobe had
 

9fingers

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Charlie Woody":1mqbxthd said:
Hi Bob

Does this involve removing the riving knife and crown guard on the saw? If so how do I do this safely? The blades I have are from Cutting Solutions ... don't know if they do the type you are suggesting?
If your riving knife is taller than the blade - yes it has to come off - so does the crown guard.
You are only cutting part way into the wood so kick back due to pinching is very unlikely indeed.
Use a decent push stick and a feather board to hold the work against the fence. and never stand in line with the blade anyway.

I got my FTG blade from Doug. It has a 4mm kerf so just offset the wood by 1mm from centre and pass it though the saw once each way round for a 6mm groove.

If you fancy a day out from Devon - come up to Romsey and I'll show you how to do it.

Bob
 

Chems

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Charlie Woody":5vten6pb said:
Thanks Chems ...... just concerned that they are Imperial, but my materials will be dimensioned in Metric.

3/4 inch is just 19mm the same as our standard 18mm stuff is normally about 3/4 inch.
 

Benchwayze

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Charlie.
I have a set of profiling router cutters, with a half-inch shank. I got them on offer with a router years ago and to date I haven't used them. Not saying I won't, but if the profile is what you are looking for, you are welcome to borrow them for the cost of postage.

Is that any help?

Regards
John (Birmingham) :)
 

Charlie Woody

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Hi Bob

That's a very kind offer - many thanks. I think the veneered both sides MDF comes out at 7mm, so if the offset is 1.5mm will this give the correct groove?

Chems

Fair point - thanks. However I have now 2 other possible solutions from Bob & John.

John

Another kind offer!

What type of profile do your cutters produce please?

Guys you have all being very kind and helpful, many thanks.
 

9fingers

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Charlie Woody":5smgepk7 said:
Hi Bob

That's a very kind offer - many thanks. I think the veneered both sides MDF comes out at 7mm, so if the offset is 1.5mm will this give the correct groove?
I'd possible go for a 7.5 mm groove to save any tight spots when assembling and a sliding fit for the tenons say 7.3-7.4mm
This saves having to use lots of force with clamps and leaves a little room for glue.

So about 1.75mm offset with 4mm kerf but in practise, I'd do a trial cut by feel and then lock off the fence to run the batch of grooves and all stiles & rails. Then cut the tenons to fit and finally the panels.


Here are some I made for the workshop a few years back




hth

Bob
 

9fingers

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No problem Charlie. It is an open ended offer.

John is a fine chap - I've met him on a few occasions now.

We are pretty friendly bunch here :lol:

Bob
 

Benchwayze

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Charlie Woody":103pysmz said:
Hi Bob

That's a very kind offer - many thanks. I think the veneered both sides MDF comes out at 7mm, so if the offset is 1.5mm will this give the correct groove?

Chems

Fair point - thanks. However I have now 2 other possible solutions from Bob & John.

John

Another kind offer!

What type of profile do your cutters produce please?





Guys you have all being very kind and helpful, many thanks.
Charlie,

My pleasure.

The profile is an Ogee profile. If they are of use, you are welcome to try them.

John :)
 

Benchwayze

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9fingers":2sn1i8pp said:
No problem Charlie. It is an open ended offer.

John is a fine chap - I've met him on a few occasions now.

We are pretty friendly bunch here :lol:

Bob
:oops: :oops: Mutual Bob... :lol:

Mind you, I am not so sure Shakers used fancy mouldings... But the offer is still there Charlie. And don't forget... 'You're only supposed to fix the B****y doors on!' 8)

Regards John
 
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