I've got the 1/4” DeWalt palm router and successfully made grooves in the stiles/rails for a shaker panel door but felt free hand there was both safety and accuracy elements at play. I'm going to try another mock up today but this time using the table saw for the grooves. If that works then my immediate need for a router just comes down to decorative profiles. Something that would work much better on a router table but if I'm not needing to remove large amount of material then the 1/4” may suffice... Until I can work out if I'll get enough use out of a more expensive router table
Basic router questions
- Thread starter Mjward
- Start date
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Doug71
Established Member
A router table really can be as easy as just bolting your router under a piece of MDF and using clamps to hold the fence in place, that is how I've managed for years.
Watch your fingers if cutting grooves on the table saw.......
Watch your fingers if cutting grooves on the table saw.......
MJward,
We have communicated various times, mainly about design. I will be selling my cast Iron router table with a half inch Hitachi router soon, could probably do a deal with a bunch of cutters. The heavy cast top lifts up on gas struts for access to the router. I am on a list for knee joint replacement so standing at a bench is a no.no! Clearing a lot but stored in a barn.
We have communicated various times, mainly about design. I will be selling my cast Iron router table with a half inch Hitachi router soon, could probably do a deal with a bunch of cutters. The heavy cast top lifts up on gas struts for access to the router. I am on a list for knee joint replacement so standing at a bench is a no.no! Clearing a lot but stored in a barn.
This will be todays fun. Will try the table saw and also a very very DIY basic router table. Starting the day with 10 fingers but will see how it goes!
Sounds like a beast of a machine! With arthritis in my knee I know exactly what you mean, I couldn't walk for a week after laying herringbone in the bedroom last month. Getting old is fun!
Recky33
Established Member
LOL, in your wildest dreams it is
Fair enough. A router table is really the only way to go for routing edge profiles. Try and find a fence that takes shims on the outfeed side. Many cutters take off a mm or so so you need to offset the fence to compensate. I've yet to find a two part adjustable fence except the Jessem TA fence and that of course is megabucks.
The Kreg router table fence can be offset using two nylon rods slid into groves but not on the same level as the Jessem or Incra fences which offer very precise adjustments. I tend to just use a large plastic shim behind the outfeed fence which works great but again requires removal and refit of the outfeed fence unike Jessem and Incra.
Not sure I'm picturing the issue/resolution but suspect because I've got zero experience with router tables. Are you saying the shims are used to shift the outfeed fence towards the bit by a mm to account for what it removes from the piece (i.e. keeping it level with the infeed)?
I too have one of the Lumberjack router tables. I am very much a DIY'er and it's been a real step up from a home made MDF/melamine type table. The fence isn't fantastic and it's never going to make it in a pro shop, but for me it does the job.
What is does is offset the outfeed fence by a small amount in relation to the infeed fence. If you were to put a piece of wood along the infeed fence it would now be stoped by the projecting outfeed fence. The outfeed fence is set to the cutter, now the piece of wood being fed along the infeed fence is reduced by the amount of offset and will just run off the outfeed fence. Watch this video and all will become clear
This is the Ryobi router table I have had for years with a Ryobi 1/2" router slung underneath I have done panel raising with it using a CMT 85 mm diameter cutter no problem it has a sliding front bed and the router has a fine adjuster screw for final setting keep an eye on ebay they are on sometimes , The fence is adjustable on both intake and outtake faces
Yes. Some profiles like bullnose cutters take off a mm or so. If you don't set the outfeed fence a mm out relative to the infeed fence the piece will fall off the infeed fence on to the cutter and cause a snipe. Using shims is ok but it can be tricky finding a shim that is exactly the right width. Hard sheets of thin plastic are useful if you can find them.
Looks a very decent bit of kit that!
Mickjay
Learning something new every day!
I find a pack of playing cards useful for shimming the outfeed fence (amongst other things), can get very precise offset.
It really is an awful unit. It doesn't descend an awful lot which meant it was a bit useless for longer router bits e.g. large flush trim bit with bearing on the top. Surface is not completely flat and too small. I ended up bolting a self-made ply surface to it with proper runners. The motor runs ok but it was a little of centre and slightly angled. As with many people, a cog inside the lift mechanism came loose and fell off which meant having to take the whole thing apart to fix. Also, the lift wheel broke so I replaced it with a metal one. In the end, I took the whole thing apart and reinstalled it in a custom made router table, with a shim to correct the angle problem.
Thanks to the recent sale at WWW I decided to get the Incra router lift and AUK motor offer and am so much happier. A much better unit all round. So much smoother mechanism. Lift descends a long way. Motor is smoother and more powerful.
Really wish I hadn't wasted my money on the Lumberjack piece of tat. Definitely a case of buy cheap, buy twice. Strange thing is I have never scrimped like that before and won't do it again in the future.
J-G
Established Member
Well, I suppose that you can only speak as you find. My experience is quite the opposite. If mine should fail tomorrow I would replace it with the same.
