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Couple of bowls from a wet bank holiday.

Both made from builders offcuts. This one I was told is ash


This one he didn't know. It looked like mahogany until I started cutting. Didn't smell or feel like mahogany and certainly doesn't look like it. Burnished almost to a polished finish just with the gouge. Wish I had more of it.


The graining isn't quite as dramatic as the photo but not far short of it. Any ideas?

Both bowls are 7" dia, 2" high and about 2 mm thick.
 
Bodrighy":1l93v5gl said:
about 2 ml thick.

sorry to be picky but ml is a unit of measurement for liquid .......... I guess you mean 2mm or 2cm ............... (sorry again the scientist in me had to comment)

Very nice bowl by the way :D
 
nickson71":1t1fk400 said:
Bodrighy":1t1fk400 said:
about 2 ml thick.

sorry to be picky but ml is a unit of measurement for liquid .......... I guess you mean 2mm or 2cm ............... (sorry again the scientist in me had to comment)

Very nice bowl by the way :D

No problem pick away. This time of night I am lucky if that's my only mistake :lol:

Edited appropriately

Pete
 
Hey Pete, those look decidedly normal for you :shock:

The second one looks like it might be Sapele with all that twisted grain.
 
CHJ":3sfy5c1n said:
Hey Pete, those look decidedly normal for you :shock:

Don't worry Chas, I also did this


:D

and half a dozen mushrooms from hedge trimmings, yew, hazel and elder. Yet to put them on a base.

Pete
 
Bodrighy":1rlxh5zj said:
Don't worry Chas, I also did this


:D

Pete

Now I think that looks really nice :D - in a strange way,much more visually appealing than the more "conventional" shapes.

Andrew
 
Candlesticks are usually round so I did this instead. It was a piece of beech from a builder and I have smoothed the sides etc without trying to make it nice and square. Using the grip-a-fix really makes a difference.





Comments welcome as ever.

Pete
 
Very polished Pete, the contrast of form with the cleanly turned socket in the rectangular block works well.
 
Forgot to mention, it's 6" long, 3" wide and the glass insert is one of 6 I got for 50p at a boot sale.

Got a couple of triangular offcuts I might have a go with as well. Trying to get a stock of different stuff ready for a 'sustainability' sale I have been asked to do on the 10th June.

Pete
 
A couple of boxes with antler finials.
This one has a turned antler finial soaked in tea (thanks Tam) Approx. 3" dia. 4" tall, sapele bottom, beech top

Need to give the finial a bit more of a polish I think.

This one has the tip as a finial, wood is spalted, 2" dia, 5" tall, unknown wood


and this was an unmarked, ordinairy looking log of hazel with all this figuring and spalting hidden inside. , 7" tall, 2 1/2 dia.


I find making boxes quite difficult. The wood swells when turning and so getting a good fit is realy difficult. Any tips?

Pete
 
Bodrighy":2zzeov1r said:
I find making boxes quite difficult. The wood swells when turning and so getting a good fit is realy difficult. Any tips?
Pete

Pete, swelling will be not only whilst turning, sooner or later humidity variations/natural wood movement is more than likely to mess up the fit if it is tight to start with.

Use very dry dense fruit wood or 'Box', :lol: failing none to hand on your gatherings try to come up with a lid/base interface that centres the lid but has a loose fit,

On my pots I assume they are going to move so I either use a loose taper collar, or shallow rounded groove in pot or lid to assist centering.

Mostly variations on below in the pot top edge, a lid spigot that drops easily into the pot and a rim overhang to engage into the pot groove.

lid.jpg


These then drop easily into the pot and the lid tends to centre itself in the pot recess.
 
Mornin' Pete.

Like those candle holders you posted before. You must have posted them while I was away. :) Do like that hazel vase, my kind of thing. Would look great with a few turned wooden flowers in it.

I must admit I prefer boxes with a lot more detail/fancy bits, but as Chas has said you can make the lid a loose drop in. Or the way I do it is with any wood, dry or wet, I part turn the box pieces, then leave them for a month or two to stabilize. Then back on the lathe and turn to finished size and shape.

What you need to do of course is rough turn a few boxes, then when you come to finish them, rough turn some more before finishing the dried boxes so as you will have some ready for the next session. If you have the patience of course. :lol:
 
Very nice pieces Pete. :D
I started turning another lidded bowl some time ago and that moved whilst turning it.Still their now,might finish it off soon :roll:
How deep have you gone on the vase piece Pete.
Paul.J.
 
Paul.J":1j6azn77 said:
Very nice pieces Pete. :D
I started turning another lidded bowl some time ago and that moved whilst turning it.Still their now,might finish it off soon :roll:
How deep have you gone on the vase piece Pete.
Paul.J.

I went to about an inch off the bottom. Because it's narrow I wanted to leave some weight there. Plus I don't have a gouge that would reach any further. :lol: Need to invest in a longer one.
 
Bodrighy wrote
I went to about an inch off the bottom.
What tool did you use Pete.I always seem to get a lot of chatter going on when i seem to reach about 4" depth. :?
Paul.J.
 
Paul.J":3mybghzq said:
Bodrighy wrote
I went to about an inch off the bottom.
What tool did you use Pete.I always seem to get a lot of chatter going on when i seem to reach about 4" depth. :?
Paul.J.
I use a bowl gouge to dig out most of the wood and then a scraper with changeable heads to clean it up. I found that as long as I go careful and hold it tight against the rest I don't get too much chatter. If it is a wider vessel I use a ring tool once I have got the main centre extracted
 
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