Laminated flooring, possible to cut a tongue for bordering after stove leak.

[Ttrees]

Hello folks
I thought I might throw this out there as a last option kinda thing, just to see if its possible to cut a rebate or profile on laminated flooring with a router setup.
Seems I've got a good base for a nice table setup
A hefty stratford 20kw stove with seemingly non replaceable back boiler, ( I'd love to be corrected on that if I'm hopefully talking nonsense )

Should I not find replacements the same, it's a bit fancier and thicker stuff than the norm.
Seems like routing a profile of some description might be worth looking into...

Guessing it'll be some time before I'd even consider dismantling it, as the joints are likely swollen tight.
Just wondering what you folks think?
Thanks

Tom

 

[Cabinetman]

I’m sorry Ttrees, I’ve read it three times and still not sure what you’re asking, have you had to lift laminate flooring to fix a woodburner? Are you trying to reinstate toungue and groove edges? A pic of the flooring would help as there are many types.
Probably nothing to do with it but I had to cut tongue and groove edges on 18 mil OSB flooring over thick insulation, doable but not a job I would want to do again, The OSB had been cut to access pipework and the floor was going to be tiled so needed to be stiff enough. Ian

 

[Ttrees]

Sorry for being unclear Cabinetman, most of my text disappeared after writing it.
I was mainly questioning about the laminated floor,which I will try an explain,
but throwing in the stove question, just incase it might be possible that the stove man might not want to do an awkward job, which might involve much more than plumbing, (if that's not common thing to do) I'd be up for that, should it be possible.

Now, back to attempt explaining things better.
The click in engineered flooring, I'm guessing isn't too much different from the norm,
but around a third thicker, presumably has a deeper hard skin.

The middle of the floor is in a mess apparently, though I couldn't see anything from the shaky video call.
I think it might be crazed, as well as some ends lifting.

I think there might be a spare or offcut board or two in the shed, so if I can get a box of identical stuff, that would make the job simple.
If I can't, then it may be worth thinking of mixing with something similar (providing identical thickness & tongue profile)

Last straw (depending if I have spare boards, and damaged area not too bad/ say if possibly mostly warped boards which might be encouraged flat again and "hidden" crazed small areas under hifi cabinet/couch etc,

would be to see if I can use some of the outside of the room (undamaged) and see if I could make a border/perimeter one "plank" wide with some similar stuff.

This stuff can look like a dogs dinner if not "clicked" especially end joints can get real gappy,
and thus also chippy,
so I was looking for a solution like creating a similar profile with a router?

I was wondering if this stuff is possible to cut with a router, without spending a fortune going through many bits, and is there any tips needed for the job.

Looks like I might be making a router table from the stove, if it isn't possible to fix.

Thanks for reading
Tom

 

[baldkev]

Hi Tom, do you know what the click in flooring is made of? I.e engineered is usually ply with a top capping of oak etc, and laminate flooring is usually made of a type of resin....
Also the thickness is important.
Depending on what you are actually dealing with when you see it....... Rather than trying to make t and g profiles, how about routing a groove in both sides and machine up some tongues to slot in as you go.
If it is a laminate and has premachined mouldings to lock it like most laminates, it may be best to price up new for them. By the time you've done all that labour, it'd be quicker to replace

Kev

 

[Ttrees]

Thanks Kev
A bit of an update and to clear some things up....
Looks like I've got a heavy duty router base a comin, as the stove is toast.

I should have been clearer, it is that resin stuff, just thicker than usual.
I was wondering if it is machinable as it would be thick enough for a tongue and groove,
should I find something similar, as solid timber would make it look like what it is.

Not wanting to spend too much, looking for a fix, rather than a redo,
and it would be down the road yet.

I mentioned testing the new stove out might make the flooring worse.
I suspect it needs to dry slowly, not for every piece to cup.

I wonder if there's any tips out there for this, say taping up the joints to dry out the center of each
piece might pull the boards into equilibrium,
or at least might not be as prone to possibly catching on something.
Just an optimistic chancers shot in the dark kinda thing.

Cheers
Tom



Tom

 

[baldkev]

laminate does dull blades quickly.....

So you had a water leak? Probably take it up to properly investigate and take the stove out at that point. Dehumidifier with windows closed or open windows and doors etc, plenty of air flow without dehumidifier.
Some laminates are water resistant, others are not so good.... until you get a look at it you won't know what you are up against. How about replacing with a roll of vinyl? Is this a customer house or a place you rent out?

 

[baldkev]

The above reply was bearing in mind a resin based laminate doesn't react the same as wood so speed of drying shouldn't make any difference. If they wave warped, it'll probably stay that way...

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I'm not entirely sure of the problem being described, but trying to put a largely "invisible patch" into a click floor will be at the very least time consuming, and probably not possible unless you can find matching flooring.

Even if you know what it is from the markings on the existing boards, the manufacturers may have discontinued the range.

You may have two realistic options:

• put in a deliberately contracting patch - this could look like "by design" rather than "inadequate repair"
• replace the lot - unless the room is very large, or the replacement very expensive per sq m, or your time is inconsequential

 

[Ttrees]

I should describe this a bit better, its my parents house, and they have a new stove got already,
The laminated click flooring is suspended on a timber floor, and the water from the back boiler leaking
puddled in the center of the room. (forgetting about the floorboards for the moment)

I have seen a picture since, but still unclear of the extent of the damage.
With the bits needing to be replaced, I was going to see if I can take all the good boards from the outside of the room, lift it all out and replace those in the middle of the room.

Obviously, its not likely that a new box of laminate flooring will match,
so was thinking a contrasting timber on the perimeter
wouldn't look too bad, seen it before on a mates house and it looked tasty, and would match better with the furniture and skirting.
Would also solve any high traffic damage in future.

However, should I not be able to find the same locking profile,
it might require some work with a router so likely looking for wider flooring the same thickness,
so the flooring is tied in, as I think its butted onto the skirting, but unsure of this.

Not trying to make a sort of inlayed patch in the center.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers
Tom

 

[baldkev]

Hi Tom, yep much clearer. The flooring ought to come up to allow everything to dry and so you can evaluate what you've got. Are they near you?
Maybe the perimeter could be biscuit jointed to the laminate? You would need to cut the edges back to a flat/ 90°.
Or, make a 'threshold' piece, with a rebate at the bottom to cover the edge of the laminate. The lowest I usually go is 4mm in oak for the oversailing part of the rebated threshold.

 

[Ttrees]

I won't be touching it until it dries out, as it's likely swollen at the joints, and I'm guessing it would all curl up if it were possible to do so without damage.
I was hoping I could get a profile that would suit, ie will stay put and expand at the wall, rather than a tongue, (unsure if this laminate runs underneath skirting at the moment)

I suppose if all fails, a stepped profile could be worth trying on some scrap, and less so a half tail profile.
Just putting it out there should it be possible to rout the stuff and not go through 20 bits,
or multiple circular saw blades, should it be possible to rig up something for a cheap circular saw.
Time is of no issue, and the folks are close by, so anythings possible in that regard.

Thanks
Tom

 

[baldkev]

I haven't tried routing laminate, but worth a test run to see? Router bits can be sharpened using diamond plates (credit card types are good, trend work well, others are available)
The key is to not run it until it gets so hot you are burning through. Short rubs, leave to cool and when needed, freshen up the edge with the diamond plate. Certainly worth a go

 

[Sandyn]

Is the property insured? this would normally be an insurance job.

 

[baldkev]

Is the property insured? this would normally be an insurance job.

An excellent point!!!

 

[clogs]

T trees....
most likely ur boiler will be fixable....
have done it few times on antique stuff....
it just takes hell of a time to get em apart plus the broken screw/bolts...
the real old'un's and qual stoves used Brass fasteners....
anyway get a copy tank made from 316 Stainless steel...

even decent modern stoves are made of paper....think Chinese.....
the last decent stove I fitted came from Norway...it was made there...cast Iron and Vitrus enamal....all castings were qual....a work of art actually if u like that kinda thing...
still plenty of wood burners there....
it cost roughly 4 times the price of models in the UK....
Germany used to make good'uns but not seen any for a while.....
I have a realy nice old one for my next house....going off grid......
It has a cracked top plate but will get a new one cast....
it's got a back boiler and to pretty to chuck out....