jointer what am I doing
- Thread starter tomthumbtom8
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The blades must project above the outfeed table, or you will cut a taper. This slight projection will cause snipe on the end of the board, which is characterised by a small area that has been cut slightly deeper than the rest of the board. You can either smooth plane the board to get rid of it after, or allow for it and just cut it off....which is what I do.
There are lots of simple ways of setting the blades, using either very expensive jigs such as the Oneway (the Woodwhisper on uTube did a nice video on various methods) to simply two or three bits of paper under a board. However, the old timers way of doing it and the way a lot of the old machine manuals instruct you to do it is the drag test. I’ve dug out a passage from the Sedgwick PT Planer handbook that explains how it’s done far better than me.
There are lots of simple ways of setting the blades, using either very expensive jigs such as the Oneway (the Woodwhisper on uTube did a nice video on various methods) to simply two or three bits of paper under a board. However, the old timers way of doing it and the way a lot of the old machine manuals instruct you to do it is the drag test. I’ve dug out a passage from the Sedgwick PT Planer handbook that explains how it’s done far better than me.
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You’ve asked about the retaining bolts holding the blades in. These should not be lock tighted in, they need to be tight, and will not undo themselves as they will be at 90 degrees to the arc of rotation and not subject to any torque that will cause them to come loose.
I would Never Ever use blades on a PT that I hadn’t had sharpened professionally or that were not brand new. The blades must be balanced, they need to be exactly the same weight or there is a danger they will cause such an out of balance that at best you wear out the bearings very quickly in the cutter block and at worst they come out to meet you!
There is school of thought that honing blades yourself / in the machine is good practice. Well, unless you know exactly what your doing it isn’t. I believe that the safest practice is to have three sets of blades. One in the machine, one ready to go into the machine and one set at the sharpeners. This for me applies to hobby as well as professional use. Most accidents occur because stuff isn’t sharp and undue pressure is then applied.
I would Never Ever use blades on a PT that I hadn’t had sharpened professionally or that were not brand new. The blades must be balanced, they need to be exactly the same weight or there is a danger they will cause such an out of balance that at best you wear out the bearings very quickly in the cutter block and at worst they come out to meet you!
There is school of thought that honing blades yourself / in the machine is good practice. Well, unless you know exactly what your doing it isn’t. I believe that the safest practice is to have three sets of blades. One in the machine, one ready to go into the machine and one set at the sharpeners. This for me applies to hobby as well as professional use. Most accidents occur because stuff isn’t sharp and undue pressure is then applied.
tomthumbtom8
Established Member
well I'm now armed with a dial indicator (wish the tip had a flat bottom) and a new set of feeler gauge
old set while really good set had to much rust on it.
and a secret weapon (rollup papers) I remembered a conversation with a engineer That I use a thin copper tape and a buzzer to set up my router depth. He uses a rolling paper to set up his milling.
anyway my blades are now 0.03mm higher than the outfeed table at there apex.
I'm happy with the blades now to check the infeed table/bed is level and flat with the outfeed table/bed I think it's called coplanar straight edge on it's way
old set while really good set had to much rust on it.
and a secret weapon (rollup papers) I remembered a conversation with a engineer That I use a thin copper tape and a buzzer to set up my router depth. He uses a rolling paper to set up his milling.
anyway my blades are now 0.03mm higher than the outfeed table at there apex.
I'm happy with the blades now to check the infeed table/bed is level and flat with the outfeed table/bed I think it's called coplanar straight edge on it's way
user22161
Established Member
There's a good video here from the Woodwhisperer - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO746cuRqV4
