Jigsaw problems

[GrahamB]

I've got a makita Li cordless jigsaw that came as part of a set. Don't use it very often but every time I do it causes me problems. I'm sure this is probably down to me doing something wrong but I just cant get it to give me a square cut. Just tried to use it to cut a profile along the edge of a 25mm thick oak board (all in from the edge of the board) and by the time I got to the end the bottom of the cut must have been a good 5-7mm different to the top. What am I doing wrong?

 

[RogerS]

I think that the blade has a lot to do with it. Hopefully someone can recommend a good manufacturer.

 

[Chems]

I've used Bosch blades and they have been very good.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Graham,

It's quite difficult to get a square cut using a jigsaw on thick, hard wood because the blade is unsupported. Some people claim that the best jigsaws with the best blades will do it, but really it's the wrong tool for what you are trying to do. I have a good jigsaw but wouldn't use it to cut 25mm oak.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Gary M]

Your blade has everything to do with it,
I can recomend Bosch T144DP blades.
They are quite a coarse cut but will cut square as long as they are sharp and you let the blade cut at its own rate, ie. dont force it.

2" Beech,

HTH

 

[GrahamB]

Thanks to all for your responses.

Paul, can you advise what I should be using?

Gary, Chems, Roger, thanks for the tip, think it was a bosch blade but poss not the right one, will try the one recommended

 

[Paul Chapman]

Paul, can you advise what I should be using?

The problem with jigsaws is that only one end of the blade is fixed and the other end can just waggle about (technical term ). If the blade is a little blunt that makes the situation worse and, as you have found, the cut quickly starts to go off at an angle. As Gary shows in his pictures, a jigsaw can give a good cut, but usually only if it is a good jigsaw and you use the right blade and change it as soon as it shows any signs of bluntness.

What to use depends on what you have and the work you are doing. A bandsaw, circular saw or router would all be good and would cut at right angles because the blade would be rigid or, in the case of a bandsaw, well supported. For some jobs, cutting oversize and planing to the line might be suitable.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[digitalbot]

Here are a couple of threads that I remember might be of interest

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... highlight=
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... highlight=

 

[matt]

I can second the T144 Bosch blades, having tried many many many different types. Also... does your jigsaw feature an oscillating blade (i.e. it moves aft on the downstroke and fore on the upstroke)? Mine allows me to switch between off, 1, 2, and 3 oscillation levels. "Off" provides the cleanest cut but switch it on and the blade is making a more pronounced cut on the upstroke and therefore more likely to stay straight.

I've cut 30mm Oak with mine and it's been fine.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

Gary M

I think your view may be a bit biased because you show a Bosch GST135BCE jigsaw, which like the Festool jigsaws features an extra low-level blade guide. Those devices (Bosch and Festool) really make a heck of a difference to the ability of the jigsaw to saw thickish hardwood vertically. I know coz' I've also got a GST135BCE...... :lol:

To the OP

I'd agree with the others about blade quality. Stick to Bosch, Festool or Irwin blades when you can find them and don't let them get blunt. For straight work in solid timbers I use (Bosch) T101D and T144DP blades most often. For scribes in stuff life hardwood skirting a good mate introduced me to the Bosch T244D blade a while back. Worked from the undesride this blade produces the cleanest scribes you'll ever achieve with a jigsaw - much better and faster than using a coping saw by hand. Someone posted a description of the process here, al;though I don't use a special foot for skirtings, just cant the foot over 15 degrees or so and saw away

 

[studders]

I think your view may be a bit biased because you show a Bosch GST135BCE jigsaw, which like the Festool jigsaws features an extra low-level blade guide. Those devices (Bosch and Festool) really make a heck of a difference to the ability of the jigsaw to saw thickish hardwood vertically. I know coz' I've also got a GST135BCE...... :lol:

I agree about the Blue Bosch jigsaws, never used a Festool. I had countless DIY types and never got a really decent cut, even using expensive blades. Then I bought a secondhand Bosch Gst, what a difference.

 

[newt]

Of course Paul is well into bandsaws

 

[Paul Chapman]

:lol:

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well I regularly get it in the neck for using the F-word. But I bought a Bosch after using both Festool models and I have no regrets. It isn't often I think F haven't produced the WGT (World's Greatest Tool) but I didn't like the ergonomics of their jigsaws.
S

 

[Rich]

I was advised by a visiting Bosch rep at work that it is Bosch green for DIYers but Bosch blue for professionals and tradesmen, the difference is very noticeable apparently, so is the price, I thought to myself :shock:

Rich.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

the difference is very noticeable apparently, so is the price, I thought to myself :shock:

A true case of you get what you pay for, I'm afraid. The difference between a GST135BCE and the next industrial model down as about £15 to £20 street price and an order or magnitude in cut quality. The difference between the GST135BCE and a DIY jigsaw like the one my sister's husband uses is stellar. Bosch has made a few lemons, but not that many I recall