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Is This Timber Safe To Do On Surface Planer?

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sunnybob

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Its what planers are for. But take the minimum cut each time, the change of grain around the knots will tear out badly if you cut too deep.
 

MikeG.

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I don't mean to sound like an old nanny, polly313, but that's not how a bridge guard on a planer is supposed to be used. When doing the flat faces of your board it goes under the guard, not between the guard and the fence.
 

pollys13

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MikeG.":2ju5voh6 said:
I don't mean to sound like an old nanny, polly313, but that's not how a bridge guard on a planer is supposed to be used. When doing the flat faces of your board it goes under the guard, not between the guard and the fence.
Hi Mike, thanks for taking the trouble to point that out :) I am actually aware of how to face and edge. I just positioned the timber on the machine like that, so could fully see it.
Thanks again.
 

pollys13

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sunnybob":302jihiz said:
Its what planers are for. But take the minimum cut each time, the change of grain around the knots will tear out badly if you cut too deep.
OK cheers.
 

pollys13

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Inspector":i01zxlc2 said:
Other than the knot being hard on blades I wouldn't have any issues doing it.

Pete
OK, as don't expect to machine timber in that state regularly I think I'll be OK. I do have an Axminster planer diamond honing tool and also the planer knife sharpening jig to put on the wet stone grinder.
So if blades pick up any dullness I'll fall back on them.
Cheers.
 

RobinBHM

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MikeG.":w2tm2m72 said:
I don't mean to sound like an old nanny, polly313, but that's not how a bridge guard on a planer is supposed to be used. When doing the flat faces of your board it goes under the guard, not between the guard and the fence.
i used to work with a wood machinist that used to have the bridge guard set like that -and it is indeed wrong and dangerous. The bad bit is that pushing the end of the work through leaves the cutters exposed.

always do faces on wide boards with the bridge guard all the way across
always edge boards with the bridge guard to the side

the gap between workpiece and guard should be a bit less than a fingers thickness (I shall let ones imagination work out why!).

ps I appreciate the OP has already stated it was for photo purposes only, I just wanted to endorse what Mike G said in case anybody else came across this thread in the future.
 

Trevanion

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RobinBHM":1v799ha0 said:
i used to work with a wood machinist that used to have the bridge guard set like that -and it is indeed wrong and dangerous. The bad bit is that pushing the end of the work through leaves the cutters exposed.
Ah, but it is better than no bridge guard at all like certain people have theirs set up... :oops:
 

Doug71

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Trevanion":2q9k8bw4 said:
RobinBHM":2q9k8bw4 said:
i used to work with a wood machinist that used to have the bridge guard set like that -and it is indeed wrong and dangerous. The bad bit is that pushing the end of the work through leaves the cutters exposed.
Ah, but it is better than no bridge guard at all like certain people have theirs set up... :oops:
My bridge guard stays on but is generally set so I can flat and then edge without having to adjust it, a bit of blade exposed at times but not too bad.

I could not use it with out the bridge guard at all, very scary :shock:
 
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