Hi Mike, thanks for taking the trouble to point that out I am actually aware of how to face and edge. I just positioned the timber on the machine like that, so could fully see it.MikeG.":2ju5voh6 said:I don't mean to sound like an old nanny, polly313, but that's not how a bridge guard on a planer is supposed to be used. When doing the flat faces of your board it goes under the guard, not between the guard and the fence.
OK cheers.sunnybob":302jihiz said:Its what planers are for. But take the minimum cut each time, the change of grain around the knots will tear out badly if you cut too deep.
OK, as don't expect to machine timber in that state regularly I think I'll be OK. I do have an Axminster planer diamond honing tool and also the planer knife sharpening jig to put on the wet stone grinder.Inspector":i01zxlc2 said:Other than the knot being hard on blades I wouldn't have any issues doing it.
Pete
MikeG.":w2tm2m72 said:I don't mean to sound like an old nanny, polly313, but that's not how a bridge guard on a planer is supposed to be used. When doing the flat faces of your board it goes under the guard, not between the guard and the fence.
RobinBHM":1v799ha0 said:i used to work with a wood machinist that used to have the bridge guard set like that -and it is indeed wrong and dangerous. The bad bit is that pushing the end of the work through leaves the cutters exposed.
Trevanion":2q9k8bw4 said:RobinBHM":2q9k8bw4 said:i used to work with a wood machinist that used to have the bridge guard set like that -and it is indeed wrong and dangerous. The bad bit is that pushing the end of the work through leaves the cutters exposed.
Ah, but it is better than no bridge guard at all like certain people have theirs set up...
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