help with identifying a router bit profile please

[johnny]

Regarding your tearout question:

if you must use a router, do the end grain first, then when you do the long grain you remove the tearout. Also use a backer, sacrificial piece of stock on the exit end when doing the end grain.
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I have already considered and mentioned that option in a previous post Eric and I gave the reason for dismissed it . :wink:
I don't think its practical to clamp a sacrificial piece to the exit end because it has a round over and quirk profile and I don't see how you can create support for that.

you clearly don't agree with using a router so I ask you....... given the various profiles on these frames how would you tackle this job

 

[SBJ]

To avoid the break out on the straight cutter, just lead in from both sides, flipping the door in between. Do the first few mm, stop, flip, come from the other side, no break out. On the profile, as mentioned do the end grain first, then go with the grain.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

[Eric The Viking]

Regarding your tearout question:

if you must use a router, do the end grain first, then when you do the long grain you remove the tearout. Also use a backer, sacrificial piece of stock on the exit end when doing the end grain.
.

I don't think its practical to clamp a sacrificial piece to the exit end because it has a round over and quirk profile and I don't see how you can create support for that.

Think about it - your roundover won't really exhibit tearout, as the cutter isn't tearing at anything. The awkward bits are the flat surfaces (the ends and edges/sides of the stiles), when the cutter gets to the long grain. So your sacrificial block will serve at that point.

Which leaves the quirk: I thought you were re-cutting all of the profile, in which case, doing the end-grain first will sort that, too.

A backer piece will work just fine. Try some experiments.

How would I do it? Probably as discussed, either by running a straight cutter first or a hand plane, and then roundover/quirk. It's how I usually do them...

 

[johnny]

Eric thanks for your suggestions

 

[SBJ]

Regarding your tearout question:

if you must use a router, do the end grain first, then when you do the long grain you remove the tearout. Also use a backer, sacrificial piece of stock on the exit end when doing the end grain.
.

I don't think its practical to clamp a sacrificial piece to the exit end because it has a round over and quirk profile and I don't see how you can create support for that.

Think about it - your roundover won't really exhibit tearout, as the cutter isn't tearing at anything. The awkward bits are the flat surfaces (the ends and edges/sides of the stiles), when the cutter gets to the long grain. So your sacrificial block will serve at that point.

Which leaves the quirk: I thought you were re-cutting all of the profile, in which case, doing the end-grain first will sort that, too.

A backer piece will work just fine. Try some experiments.

How would I do it? Probably as discussed, either by running a straight cutter first or a hand plane, and then roundover/quirk. It's how I usually do them...

The doors already have a profile, a backer wont work.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Sorry if I misunderstood - I didn't think the corners were rounded but intended to look like an external mitre... in which case a backer _would_ work.