HOJ
Established Member
I don't mean to pry but what did you spend a 5 figure sum on?
Help needed on Band saw setup - Record Power Sabre 350
- Thread starter BigDean
- Start date
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Ha ha. A few grand converting my garage to be a nice room, then band saw, table saw, mft system, dust extraction, planer/thicknesser, domino, track saw, etc Then wood! Then theres the hand tools…..
I was all the gear no idea, now all the gear a tiny idea
I was all the gear no idea, now all the gear a tiny idea
Teeth facing backwards or wrong way, How to reverse the teeth of a bandsaw blade -
hoping to see some photos
hoping to see some photos
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
If yer still having trouble, then the scribing beam would tell all.
The wheels need to be within tolerance for the beam not to pick up an error
You'll know what that tolerance is, by rotating the wheel and seeing if the pen lands on the same spot/line.
0.5 mm on my 24" wheels translated to a 4mmish error, what only looks like the tracking was adjusted.
A suitable width blade needs to be installed whilst using the beam, (for the upper wheel not to tip) and tracked as such as not to scuff the timber.
Once that is checked/fettled ,then you should be able have a consistent datum line of the upper wheel.
I'm leaving out that "other" line, as most saws aren't adjustable in that regards,
so you better cross yer fingers and have a looooooose drive belt (motor bearings only take but a second to get destroyed)
Acutally co-planar now, and not possibly 4mm out
Using the same piece of timber what fits in the chassis for aligning the adjustable lower wheel to suit the upper non adjustable one.
Don't pinch the shaft if moving the lower wheel, so a bolt loosened in both axis to do so,
loose blade and tighten again etc.
I left out filing the face of the wheels to do this alignment, as I've left out the motor stuff,
since you don't have a Centauro.
Doesn't mean you couldn't Centaurolize your machine, should you deem the saw really worth doing so.
Unpleasant reading perhaps, and not intended as a challenge or suggestion...
but that's how you'll get to know your machine,
or why it might be misbehaving, should the tires be reliable.
Tom
The wheels need to be within tolerance for the beam not to pick up an error
You'll know what that tolerance is, by rotating the wheel and seeing if the pen lands on the same spot/line.
0.5 mm on my 24" wheels translated to a 4mmish error, what only looks like the tracking was adjusted.
A suitable width blade needs to be installed whilst using the beam, (for the upper wheel not to tip) and tracked as such as not to scuff the timber.
Once that is checked/fettled ,then you should be able have a consistent datum line of the upper wheel.
I'm leaving out that "other" line, as most saws aren't adjustable in that regards,
so you better cross yer fingers and have a looooooose drive belt (motor bearings only take but a second to get destroyed)
Acutally co-planar now, and not possibly 4mm out
Using the same piece of timber what fits in the chassis for aligning the adjustable lower wheel to suit the upper non adjustable one.
Don't pinch the shaft if moving the lower wheel, so a bolt loosened in both axis to do so,
loose blade and tighten again etc.
I left out filing the face of the wheels to do this alignment, as I've left out the motor stuff,
since you don't have a Centauro.
Doesn't mean you couldn't Centaurolize your machine, should you deem the saw really worth doing so.
Unpleasant reading perhaps, and not intended as a challenge or suggestion...
but that's how you'll get to know your machine,
or why it might be misbehaving, should the tires be reliable.
Tom
I've just signed up for the 1 hour Record Power bandsaw workshop with Yandles in November. Here's the link. I dare say they can answer your issues. Record Power Focus Weekend: Bandsaws - Yandles
Thanks for that. I did that one, which convinced me to buy the machine, but to be honest, with 12 people in a room for 1 hour, it was more of an overview than any in depth calibration.
Thanks Tom, really appreciate your comprehensive reply. Looks like I have even more to learn!
I bought a Record B250 a while back and it set up OK with the bladee supplied. My first project was a bandsaw box and it turned out good. The blade is still going and can cut thin (1/8") and accurate pieces for miniature crafting.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
No bother, but worth noting it's not comprehensive without the motor,
and could well damage it without consideration,
Bearing or similar to clear a protruding shaft.
I made a plate for my motor, as motor castings are made from some kind of alloy which
might not like being shimmed!
It's certainly not the suggested method either, but rather intended as a no compromise guarantee kinda thing, which would highlight whats at fault.
Tramming the wheel, ( with masking tape to protect paint job)
would likely show up either a wheel with discrepancy, or infact the tire which could be checked
also, should it be bonded flush with the face of the wheels, what may be out,
then the apex of the camber would likely be variable.
There is other methods of troubleshooting, ala Rikon guide and Laguna for example
but the tires need be good nick to find that out,
and might get a machine with misalignments running well (discounting longevity)
Worth noting the blade needs to be honestly suited for the machine,
and not the pretend figures in which the manufacturers might suggest.
You know that's baloni if they don't state the type and gauge thickness of the speculated width,so generally go the next size down, unless the machine spec is wildly optimistic.
This is for ball park adequate tension, and the "white finger test" deflecting the blade to check.
Presumably nothing new to someone who's been troubleshooting without result.
All the best
Tom
any progress?
Thanks for following up, but as above, after switching to the Tuff Saws blade, it seems to be much much better. It will get a more comprehensive workout next week.
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