(handheld) belt sander or (hand held) orbital sander?

[transatlantic]

For one of my first projects, I'm going to be creating a floating breakfast bar. The main work top area will be made from a number of 47mmx100mm rough sawn pine lengths(to keep the cost down) glued togeather. The surface area for the worktop is going to be around 160x50cm.

As I'm buying sawn timber, I want to pick up a sander that will remove material quick. I currently have a 1/3 sheet sander, but I find it pretty slow to remove material.

So I'm wanting to pick up either a random orbit sander or a belt sander. Any recommendations on which to pick? One of my problems is that I generally have to work one handed as I'm disabled. So figure the the ROS would be easier for me.

I don't have a whole lot to spend, so it'll be a value range screwfix job.

ROS : http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb289s ... 230v/46113
Belt sander : http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb290s ... 230v/51603

any thoughts?

 

[Jacob]

Belt sanders have bigger footprint and flatten - so may take longer if the boards aren't flat/level. As compared to a ROS which can follow the bumps and/or flatten. ROS much easier to use one handed as they are smaller and lighter, but do a lot of work nevertheless.

 

[deema]

The two beasts are for different things IMO, the belt sander will rapidly flatten anything you throw at it. My weapon of choice is the Makita 9404. Excellent machine, simply brilliant and a great cost / performance ratio.

The Mirka Veros is my favorate ROS, I have the variable speed with two options of sanding head. Great dust extraction, and incredibly light and quiet with little to no vibration. The ROS is for me a finishing sander and is what I use to take a piece up through the grits if I can't hand plane / scrape the finish.

 

[Andy RV]

If you want to do a substandard job then attack it with which ever sander you fancy. Otherwise just buy planed timber, it's hardly a large area...

 

[transatlantic]

If you want to do a substandard job then attack it with which ever sander you fancy. Otherwise just buy planed timber, it's hardly a large area...

Why would buying sawn wood and sanding it be substandard to buying planed wood?

 

[Andy RV]

Because you're not going to get a flat, straight, square and parallel surface by sanding which will result with gaps and other problems when you glue the lengths together.

Don't get me wrong sanders are very useful tools for finishing prepared timber, however they are not suitable for taking rough sawn timbers and leaving them in a state suitable for gluing to make larger pieces.

Buying good quality planed all round material will result with a much better end product.

 

[blackrodd]

If you want to do a substandard job then attack it with which ever sander you fancy. Otherwise just buy planed timber, it's hardly a large area...

Why would buying sawn wood and sanding it be substandard to buying planed wood?

Perhaps you ought to go to the wood yard and fit some rough sawn pine pieces together, you will possibly appreciate
that "rough" will be the result, A lot of work just to save a copper or two!
Don't forget, if you start off with cr*p timber, that's what you invariably will end up with, a cr*p job!.
Selected, planed softwood would give the best results, glue lines, finish etc.
It's not easy to straighten or work timber with a belt sander as they will seriously work the wood away, not necessarily in a straight line!
Belt sander will work the wood away, can be very aggressive, and Orbital for a nice pre finish surface.
DO NOT Forget to hook up some extraction with this proposed sanding or you're sanding could make you quite ill! Rodders

 

[Bm101]

I'd imagine a ROS would be a lot easier to manage one handed. That belt sander is 4.5 kg over half the weight more than the ROS and designed to be used dual handed. Don't think there's many people who could comfortably use a belt sander mainly one handed. I'm far from an expert but I reckon I'd buy PAR for that size of project in pine if you can find a decent supplier who will get it to you at a good average size and try your sheet sander. For that amount of wood it wouldn't be a fortune, and it might be false economy to buy a new sander instead unless your current one is total tosh. I'd invest in roll of Oakey Liberty green paper at a coarse grade instead and wear a mask and finish straight up with a higher grade or two.
Forgive me if I'm teaching grandma to suck eggs.

Edit, your other option is to see if you can find someone near you who can thickness your glue up for you. That way you don't need to buy new kit at all. Just check now before you do your glue up. I'm talking from experience, I was lucky enough to find a good man willing to help an idiot out doing my 7 1/2 foot long bench top. Big learning curve.

 

[transatlantic]

Thanks for the advice. In my head I was envisioning doing the glue up first and the sanding afterwards. I was naively thinking that the saw mark gaps between the two faces would be closed when clamping the wood togeather. I thought that rough sawn just meant the finish was rough. I assumed it was still straightish/square/parallel

But I guess that isn't how it works. Lots to learn!

 

[Bm101]

Welcome to the learning curve lol. You're not alone by a stretch. Just don't give up.

 

[custard]

Thanks for the advice. In my head I was envisioning doing the glue up first and the sanding afterwards. I was naively thinking that the saw mark gaps between the two faces would be closed when clamping the wood togeather. I thought that rough sawn just meant the finish was rough. I assumed it was still straightish/square/parallel

But I guess that isn't how it works. Lots to learn!

There is lots to learn, but it's all do-able. Pick the right projects to guide your learning, match that to the right attitude, and there's no limits to what you can make.

Good luck!