extracting mdf dust

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Mike.C":9uti71dy said:
Bill Pentz's recommends using 6 inch ducting on his cyclone. So with this in mind, how many of you will be using this size, and how many will be sticking to 4 inch?Mike

Mike I ran soil pipe before I went to the Pentz site and was not about to upgrade as I have had no problems using blastgates at all ends then going to clear flexible to the machines. I have not got a thicknesser(yet) to test it fully. Mine works fine with 2 blastgates open at a time.
 
Barry Burgess":2wvndj33 said:
Julian I have had no time but hope to find some tomorrow
This is where |I am at


Yep that is pretty big considering it is a scaled down version, looking good though and on castors too!

Spent a while trying to read Bills site last night!! Is there a condensed version. #-o He knows his stuff alright but its hard work getting to the bones of it.
Went to bed very late with a headache :?

Julian
 
Regarding friction in wooden cyclones, here's an agricultural product that may provide a solution. It's a dry film graphite based low friction product. It's called "Slip Plate." It comes in several forms, including one applied like paint.
SLIP Plate can be sprayed or brushed on like a paint, and bonds to any clean metal, wood, concrete or plastic surface. It provides a dry-film surface that will not attract dirt, dust or rust, won't melt, freeze or wash off, and resists most chemicals and solvents. In a wide range of industrial, home, marine and farm applications, offering increased efficiency and extended working life for all your tools and equipment.

Manufacturer's website www.superiorgraphite.com it's used industrially in materials handling as an anti friction coating.

UK suppliers: Gannon Oils www.gannonoils.net who call it Ganslip, part of their speciality range.
It also used to be available from agricultural machinery dealers handling the John Deere brand - look in yellow pages for one near you - this stuff was available as a John Deere spare part - possibly not under the Slip Plate name. It might also be available from larger horticultural machinery suppliers as the stuff is reccomended for preventing wet grass cuttings sticking to the underside of rotary mowers.

I came across it on farm. It ocurred to me then that it might make a useful anti friction coating in the workshop - thicknesser bed, say, especially if you have cast ali, rather than iron - but I have not tried this myself.

hope this helps, Ivan
 
Regarding Barry's design compromise: as you move from Bill's definitive design, the cylone's ability to trap fine dust will decrease, and resistance to air flow will increase. However he does have 3HP at his disposal, and almost anything will have less resistence to airflow than two dustbin lid separators in series!

For those not wanting to become amateur tinsmiths some sheet zinc could be bonded to the ply cylinder, where wear may take place. Zinc (not galvanised steel) is used in the roofing trade, and bonded to the ply (or sandwiched between) could be cut with a non ferrous saw blade.
Then paint with Slip Plate.

Who's got the Tv rights to the Burgess Saga? Thanks for keeping us in the picture, Barry!

regards, Ivan
 
Ivan prey tell how to you fashion a cone in wood???. The cylinder I have no problem with. I take it that you have a large steamer??. I have enough problems making entries and exists from metal to pipe with MDF - the band saw works overtime and often I resort to the router.
What I am trying to achieve is that it will not require much skills to make a cyclone and save all our lungs.
Barry

ps I better go to sleep now so that I can complete the cheapie in the morning and put it to the test!
 
Ivan if you had to make them out of MDF(assuming you did not have a lathe) that would be 41 pieces of 18mm MDF to cut outer and inner circles for. I would rather count sheep - good night.
 
Funny, I was assuming you'd make a wooden cone by making a few rings as support and then line them with thin ply/MDF or whatever. Not strong enough I suppose? Dunno, 99.9% of this thread is way over my head as it is. :oops: Don't think I'm this sort of woodworker. :D

Cheers, Alf
 
That is how i would approach it Alf. The inside could be sprayed with Ivan's slippy stuff.

But how do you escape the Mdf dust while you are making your MDF dust catcher out of MDF! :? !

Which came first the chicken or the egg?

Julian
 
:oops: :oops: I am sure that this is a stupid question to most of you, but how do you work out what the HP (as in say 3hp) of a dust extractor is? :oops: :oops:
One of the extractors that i use only has the following figures on it :2200W, 108 l/sec, (222cfm).

Cheers

Mike
 
Alf":gdjsf70u said:
Funny, I was assuming you'd make a wooden cone by making a few rings as support and then line them with thin ply/MDF or whatever. Not strong enough I suppose? Dunno, 99.9% of this thread is way over my head as it is. :oops: Don't think I'm this sort of woodworker. :D

Cheers, Alf
That sounds good to me. Just did not think about it How any bits of ply would you use??. Just thinking of air leaks If you are forming it from sheet metal you make 3 circle jigs to bend the sheet over.
 
I completed the cheapie cyclone today - putting the inlet into the barrel - the air was blue much silicon and filler. It must be easier to cut it from a flat sheet. I remember Dave L had the same problem when making his cyclone but at least he was using thinner sheet. Then fitted the air ramp and have left it to dry. Like all cheapies I gave it a lick of paint to hide any mistakes.
Hope to connect it up tomorrow and start testing
Barry
 
surely the logical way to make a wooden cone would indeed be
8 or so vertical ply formers, which would of course allow you to
have a nice clean outside support. then how about flexi mdf or
ply inner shaped cone pieces??

point about the connectors etc, where can you now buy
cheapish y shaped connectors so that i can for instance
connect the top and bottom outlet on my 744 to one hose???

i can no longer find what i thought was there on the screwfix site.
paul
 
I hope I'm not raining on the wooden cyclone parade. This is just a thought, I really have no idea; but is it possible that the friction of all those woodchips against wood, could build up enough heat to start a fire? Anyone have any knowledge on that?

Brad
 
Using wood:
I'd rather assumed you'd make up some formers and bend the ply round. Boat builders do it. Where the curve is tighter (in the cone) you'd probably have to cramp it on in sections ("planking", vertical or helical) using Bill's metal cutting pattern for guidance. As you have to eventually remove the formers, a boatbuilder would laminate on a second layer with the joints offset. One boatbuilding technique uses a stapler to help hold the second layer till the glue dries. Ther'd be no point unless you were working to an optimised design.

Plywood:
Silverman list "Flexible plywood", 5mm which can be had especially bendy across either width or length, (minimum radius, anyone?), and 1.5mm birch ply in 1.5m sq sheets for the faint hearted!

Fire!Fire!:
Probably not, as the bloke in the USA who sells plastic cyclones hasn't had one melt yet...
 
Ivan the "plastic" used in the USA cyclone is as smooth as a babies b** - I don't think ply comes close. I would be worried if the cyclone effect would be created - Friction could come into play but that is a pure guess.
I have no metal working skills and using a jigsaw I have butchered the metal to make my cheapie cyclone with bits from Ikea to help - but making it in ply would be a nightmare for me.
I would like to see somebody on the BB try to make one from wood. My views might be biased as I had to to fit the inlet to my cyclone early this morning - the air was blue.
Barry
 
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