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marcros

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I have a useful set of drills in 0.1mm increments. I have lost or blunted a couple of sizes so whilst I am ordering from UK drills I will get replacements. I don't want a discussion on sizes or usefulness of size increments, I have my reasons for them!

I mainly drill wood, plastics and fairly rarely non ferrous. I have one job to do which will be drilling angle iron to take M6 bolts, so will buy a couple of bits for that.

What should I buy? HSS, Ground HSS, HSS titanium, Cobalt... I don't want many, I am more interested in getting the most suitable than saving a couple of quid.
 
True angle iron or angle steel.

If iron I'd get cobalt as in my very limited experience it's hard!

Cheers James
 
Mark have you considered an HSS step drill?
I have a (discontinued) aldi one that I bought on the off chance. I've used it a surprising amount in unhardened steel.
 
Stainless is a bit of a pain. I've resorted to HSS-Cobalt bits for that and they work when normal bits fail. Use cutting fluid, don't be put off by a bit of smoke even with new drills and keep the pressure on so that they cut rather than rubbing and work hardening.
For steel angle and plate, anything decent will do the job.
SKF Dormer have the reputation. "Jobber" drills are a consumable so consider boxes of 10 in your most used sizes.
Heller HSS-G from toolstation when you need something at short notice.
Osborn drills are nicely made and they do some good looking sets.
 
True angle iron or angle steel.

If iron I'd get cobalt as in my very limited experience it's hard!

Cheers James

oh, no idea. it is currently fence posts holding up some wire fencing. it is a job for the spring, so I will try out Phil's dormers first on this.
 
Stainless is a bit of a pain. I've resorted to HSS-Cobalt bits for that and they work when normal bits fail. Use cutting fluid, don't be put off by a bit of smoke even with new drills and keep the pressure on so that they cut rather than rubbing and work hardening.
For steel angle and plate, anything decent will do the job.
SKF Dormer have the reputation. "Jobber" drills are a consumable so consider boxes of 10 in your most used sizes.
Heller HSS-G from toolstation when you need something at short notice.
Osborn drills are nicely made and they do some good looking sets.

I have a few hellers from TS actually and I do like those. The ones that I need to replace are odd sizes- 7.4mm, 9.7mm, etc. I dont use these few on anything hard- acrylic and ebonite when making pens.

I take your point on jobbers though, I might start to build a collection of a handful in a few common sizes.
 
Marcos, never used U.K. drills but looking at their site I would suggest Cobalt HSS, always pays to purchase well known branded drills or other cutting tools IMO.
A couple of other points, why not just sharpen your worn drills ? the angle iron, is it by chance old bed irons ? If so you will find it very difficult to drill unless you soften the area first.
John.
 
I did the fencing for a v/large Dog kennel business.....hundreds of holes.....
tried them all even proper qual makes....
in the end just went with cobalt but best of all was carbide jobbers.....

what made the job worse, mostley up a ladder/steps....
gave up with batt drills and used the mains variety......
 
Marcos, never used U.K. drills but looking at their site I would suggest Cobalt HSS, always pays to purchase well known branded drills or other cutting tools IMO.
A couple of other points, why not just sharpen your worn drills ? the angle iron, is it by chance old bed irons ? If so you will find it very difficult to drill unless you soften the area first.
John.

I don't know how to sharpen drills, and for the 0.1mm sizes, I wouldn't want to risk an oversized hole. I looked at a couple of sharpener options but it wasn't worth it for the few per year that I get through. I don't have many drills, and after the initial outlay of a set of jobbers, I doubt that I would spend more than a tenner on replacements every couple of years.

The angle iron, I don't think it is bed irons. There is too much of it and it looks like it was a commercial job when done many years ago. I have no idea exactly what it is though, I will try and drill a piece when the drill has some charge in it.
 
I've had a full set of Dormer drills bits for 40 years. Used on mist steel types, alloys and wood. Dormer are very good. I've had to replace some of the smaller ones due to breakage but the remaining are original and they have plenty of life to come. As the old tradesmen used to tell me; keep them sharp and sharpen them accurately and they will last you a lifetime - they are on course to do just that.
 
I've had a full set of Dormer drills bits for 40 years. Used on mist steel types, alloys and wood. Dormer are very good. I've had to replace some of the smaller ones due to breakage but the remaining are original and they have plenty of life to come. As the old tradesmen used to tell me; keep them sharp and sharpen them accurately and they will last you a lifetime - they are on course to do just that.

how have you sharpened these?
 
I'd get the most cleanly ground TI-N coated HSS bits that you can find.

Over here, there's a brand called viking that people would now refer to as being expensive, but they are about $2-$3 a bit in a full jobber set. The flutes on them are clean enough to cut someone and they work well resharpened by hand on a grinder.

I have certain sizes that I use for ferrous metals, but later want to use them in wood, too, and thus cobalt or whatever else makes almost no difference for me as they're getting dull no matter what. If they get dull half as often, but come with a less crisp grind, it's not of use. Bending or loss is more likely to retire a bit for me (but even bent bits of HSS can be tapped back to reasonable straightness if the bend is gradual).

No clue if you have any euro or UK sourcable drills over there - the difference between a $50 imported jobber set and a $80 american made set with flutes that will cut into your fingers is night and day.
 
how have you sharpened these?
I was tought by craftsman and to sharpen them on fine stone grinding wheels. There is a technique that can be mastered with a bit if time and patience. I've seen a couple of YouTube videos that may help. I've used drill sharpening machines and to be honest they do an okay job but I find the hand method more effective.
Buy quality drill bits and you won't go far wrong. They have the correct amount of carbon in the steel and don't need to have other elemets coated to them to make them perform. Dormer is an American company and have a great reputation for their products.

To me drill bits are like chisels, you need to keep them sharp and importantly sharpened correctly and to the correct angle. Good luck.
 
By Chippymint
I've had a full set of Dormer drills bits for 40 years. Used on mist steel types, alloys and wood. Dormer are very good. I've had to replace some of the smaller ones due to breakage but the remaining are original and they have plenty of life to come. As the old tradesmen used to tell me; keep them sharp and sharpen them accurately and they will last you a lifetime - they are on course to do just that.

Mine too I have number, letter & fraction drill sets bought in the 1960’s must have drill 1000’s of holes mostly hand sharpened but now have Swiss drill grinder for small sizes , eyes not so good now ! But still hand sharpen the larger sizes.
 
By Chippymint
I've had a full set of Dormer drills bits for 40 years. Used on mist steel types, alloys and wood. Dormer are very good. I've had to replace some of the smaller ones due to breakage but the remaining are original and they have plenty of life to come. As the old tradesmen used to tell me; keep them sharp and sharpen them accurately and they will last you a lifetime - they are on course to do just that.

Mine too I have number, letter & fraction drill sets bought in the 1960’s must have drill 1000’s of holes mostly hand sharpened but now have Swiss drill grinder for small sizes , eyes not so good now ! But still hand sharpen the larger sizes.

I would be interested to see the grinder.
 
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