Dealing with split boards

[glynster]

Sorry to launch another "beginner-stupid" question but I have been offered a few oak boards (kiln dried) some of which are a bit split at the end (10 to 20% of the length). To make usable stock from it is it best to rip a split board either side of the split and discard the centre section to make 2 unsplit but narrower lengths or is it better to crosscut off the split ends? I'd worry that even if I crosscut below the split that the split might re-emerge later.

On the same topic, when a board is waney edged, is it safer to rip a straight edge on a bandsaw and then move to the table saw or is that not necessary?

Thanks, just a couple of the many of thousands of things I scratch my head over each day.

 

[Jacob]

It already is "usable stock". You don't need to do anything to it at all, until you have a project. When you have a cutting list you work out the best way to cut it up .

 

[Mr T]

Most waney edged boards come with end shakes and as Jacob says it depends on what you want to do with it as to how you deal with it. If you wanted a table top then you might do as you suggested, if you want table legs you would just arrange the cuts to miss the shake. It would be a waste turn the shakey area into an off cut.

If you have a sliding table on your table saw you could take the waney edge off by holding the piece on the slider. Alternatively use the band saw. I is risky to rip the edges off free hand on the table saw.

Chris

 

[paulm]

To take off the waney edge, if you don't have a sliding table, you can screw or pin an existing straight edged board or piece of ply on top of the waney edge boardwith the straight edge protruding to the side of the waney edge. This then gives a usable straight edge to run along the bandsaw or tablesaw fence to create the initial straight cut on your waney edge board. Careful positioning of the screws/pins would ideally place them in waste areas on the new board.

Cheers, Paul

 

[paulm]

It occurred to me over breakfast that if you were going to be using waney edge boards quite often it could be worth making up a sled to replicate the use of a sliding table. Made from a piece of ply or similar with a straight edge for running against the fence, and two or three toggle type clamps mounted on the board to hold down the waney edge board on top, save screw holes probably a bit quicker too.

Or mark a straight line with a chalk line on the waney edge board and then hand or jig or circular saw I suppose.

Cheers, Paul

 

[RogerS]

Exactly what I have done, Paul. A piece of 22mm ply, a batten underneath that slides nice and tightly in the mitre slot in the table saw. Then I screw down toggle clamps as and where necessary.

 

[custard]

It already is "usable stock". You don't need to do anything to it at all, until you have a project. When you have a cutting list you work out the best way to cut it up .

+1

But to answer your question, don't worry about splits getting bigger. The damage occurs during drying/kilning, splits rarely propagate much subsequently. But sods law clearly states that if you trim off 100mm from each of the ends of a two metre board to make it "look neat", then you'll soon find yourself needing two 1900mm long thin sections that would have easily come from either side of the split before your exercise in timber housekeeping!

 

[Mr T]

For ripping on the band saw I usually draw a straight line or use a chalk line and saw to the line by eye, on the assumption that I will be planing the edge later.

Chris

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

There's an old adage in storing timber: Keep it as long as you can for as long as you can

For all the reasons above the chaps have mentioned is why. One last one, if your project was a waney edge coffee table then you would keep the edge of course. And for real rustic charm its entirely possible and frequently practiced to epoxy fill the shakes, often with a black pigmented epoxy to make a feature of them. Point is, only make off cuts when you need to.

 

[RobinBHM]

As others have mentioned, dont trim boards until you have a project and cutting list.

Working out board utilisation from a cutting list is actually quite a skill in itself and is a really interesting part of a project.

If grain and colour are important its worth skimming the boards with a plane. Select the longest components first and think carefully before cross cutting boards in case a rip cut first yields a long thin part of the cut list. I mark out with a dark blue crayon.

If you need long parts always eye the boards for bow and twist, its surprising how much thickness can be lost flattening. Oak in thinner boards can be not just bowed but rippled down the board length and hence a bit of a head scratcher deciding which side to surface.

If you are making something with short lengths, cross cutting before face and edging improves flatness - bearing in mind minimum safe working lengths.

So what have you decided to make? and dont forget WIP pics always liked on here

 

[glynster]

Thanks guys, some great advice and wisdom here - really pleased I asked this question as I can tell it will spare me a few rookie mistakes. I like the adage of keeping timber as long as I can for as long as I can - simple and memorable and I can see a good rule to stick to. Thanks also for the other tips of cutting waney edge - notes have been taken