Multiple Tablesaw abutments and design suggestions

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Iroko loco!
18 Nov 2012
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In me workshop
Hello folks
I've got quite a few things which I'm wanting to sort out with my old Startrite 12" saw,
wanting to add quite a few things for various operations.

Going to start by making a short fence for ripping on my machine, as in Roy Sutton's video,
he mentions setting the distance of the end of the fence to 50mm from the tip of the blade.
Screenshot-2023-7-4 Safe Wood Machining by Roy Sutton.png

I'm wanting to see what options are out there, regarding making a sleeve for the job,
should there be some other clever options out there I've not seen.
I don't mind if it involves a lot of hassle, nor making some hardware up for the job.
Hoping to get some suitable high density plastic material for the job, if I can blag a few slices.
Screenshot-2023-7-4 Multi-Use Tablesaw Rip Fence.png

I need to make a decent crown guard at some stage later on,
having made a mock up overhead version before I had a welder, which might prove handy for planning out
and figure, I'm best to ask what height of a "cleat?" might be the best compromise.
Love to hear some thoughts on that
Screenshot-2023-7-4 Safer ripping with a short rip fence on the tablesaw.png

Now that would all be simple enough, tall fence on one side, and low profile one on the other,
until one mentions a router table involved, which might complicate matters.

Probably will have to update things with some materials which might explain things better,
i.e permanent solutions.

I can mess about with some other stuff until then,
Might cut up some rusty box iron up to muck about with an outfeed.
Not needing anything huge, as I don't have too much space in the shed, and can
clamp down a plank onto the bench if that is necessary.
Plenty of head scratching as I'm thinking of what width to make it, should it also be a great addition to a
router table wing?
Screenshot-2023-7-4 Safe Wood Machining by Roy Sutton(1).png

Perhaps a mashup of some box iron and something like laminate flooring bolted down to it...
I've found the piccy below from google images, seems from some DIY plans,
(which makes one question the objective of why this design was built)
as I've gotta imagine something which would support the work for a router table would be worth the extra few inches.

Perhaps that's something to consider, and think about making an overhead router instead.
I think I might like that better, as I'm not fond of universal/brush motors, not to mention one upside down in a box.

I'm not stuck on any design, as there be multiple caveats with my Startrite machine,
namely a fence rail at the rear, and mobile base foot levers,
and to top that off overhead guard post with VFD cabinet to go somewhere,
but that might be sortable with some sort of swinging design.

I mainly would like to see some ideas for the router table extension wing on a tablesaw,
and whether an infeed table would be some use.

Any suggestions, rabbit holes or complete thread de-railments appreciated,

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Not done any progress with an outfeed table yet, as other things need sorting first,
and not even too keen on making a start on the table wing either, as I like getting the
important bits done beforehand.
None the less, figured that metal was definitely worth salvaging, and having some fun sticking some cruddy old box section together.
A saw cut on each corner, and a club hammer for the thin solid stuff, interesting to see what the elements can do to some welding beads, mind you there are some bits of the stuff whats rusted through.


A nice little starter was this paddle switch, as it was giving off strong Beverly Hillbillies vibes!


Used the other bit of a sturdy spring I had lying around, from one of those compact umbrellas you often see half stuffed into a street bin.
Needed a bit of widening out, it gives just right amount of resistance.

FYI the finish is "broken spray can drippings & scraped off gloss lumps" incase you were wondering. :unsure:

Made a start on the wing section,

And some bits of metal for bolting it down.

My 50 euro welder still goin!
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Few more bits of box iron added since, but not too much as it'll be too hard to adjust later

As you can see here

With that good enough, and avoiding the headache of reorganizing the shed to obtain the
table wing shelf material, I thought I'd have another bash of making a proper VFD enclosure
which I might add turns out will be a good WIP for how not to do it.:ROFLMAO:

Now for starters, that exo-skeleton is too small, but not by more than a few millimeters.
Here's some dimensions I've made out....
This is for a "low profile" application, so DIN mounting rail for easy VFD service/inspection is omitted.

This stainless steel shelf was just about large enough for the job

Mistake no.2, not using a good slitting disc, and cleat clamped to the work for the disc to register against.
Under a mm lost there... no bothers I'd planned for some space anyway.

First bit o bashing, this is for the back.

That side of the folded sheet seemed accurate, even though a bit warped from getting the fold out.

Mistake no.3
I measured from the inside of the fifth fold, when instead I should'a measured from the outside.
This I didn't cop, before cutting out the mitres, so more width was lost.
I'll try to explain in a bit...
Mistake no.4 is using this lazy tool for the job, should have dug out the sliding bevel and rule,
to register against the true edge.


It was only when I got to about here that I realized my stupidity regarding not measuring from the outside of the fold, so my lines needed to be scooted a millimeter+
but since I'd cut to the line, I needed to go beyond for the mitres to line up, so more space lost.

Got comfy for some cuttin, the knee under is good for tri-angulation

Continued WIP on how not to build a VFD enclosure.

Bit of a de-burrin and quick scrub before bashing.

Starting with the back, first bend went well, and straightened out nicely, this stainless is forgiving stuff really.


Nearly forgot to mention mistake no.5!,
not accounting for the metal lost with the fold,
That is...If you plan on seeing the line proud of the form by a hair, then you loose that,
and probably more with the stretching too, so I should have accounted for that.

Tryin to get the fold sharp with some upwards belts of the hammer

Straightening out things again

Finished the back folding

Using the corner of the lump hammer seems to make things easier

This is a good shot of the sheet metal, what's proud of the ply bench top offcuts,
what's also proud of the bench.
That is important to get a crisp fold.

Just one or two wee taps with the sharpish club hammer edge.

As I was sayin, when the line creeps beyond the ply, then you won't get a crisp cornered fold.

Some timbers behind the former should keep your box sides parallel
A less than sharp bend, as in splitting the difference with my cuts. i.e that new fold line due to my
mistake required differing thicknesses in places.

Wasn't sure how much to leave on the end, so left that for laters

First fold went easy

As did the second

And third

Getting the look of an inverter enclosure now

Lil bit of kerf cutting and filing to get the box a bit more squareish

Fitting the back

Got the mitres welded up, back spot welded, which I could have done better somehow,
but might have desirable qualities not being quite sealed,
Door added and filed thereafter with one eye closed.


Leaving it there for the moment, and not fitting the VFD, ad cutting the window thereafter,
as the box is a wee bit off, and needs to be mounted also

Cosy enough where it is, eager to get the frame bolted down and adjusted before I can continue.

That's about all for now.
For some reason, I thought embellishment and abutment meant the same thing!
Webster says otherwise, I'd change my title if it were possible.

Some more progress made, this counter top stuff had a pile of timber stacked on top.
Was debating to do it with power, but it's tough stuff so I didn't risk it,
and tried sharpening an old hardpoint I had (again, and still unsuccessfully) lol.
Scraped it with the side of a "beater" plane iron, the stuff has to be worked like bone or it'll chip.


A bit of re-designing necessary, as I plonked into every puddle of numpty.

It took offering the top to realize the clearances necessary, and indeed how to level it up/
have adjustable, (I'm going to drop the saw down a few mm's, onto rubber rather than 10mm ply)
and at the same time affix the top without through bolts.

Spent a silly amount of time making that three legged level in two axis, as it kept sagging
cut the leg off and started again.
Shoulda done this before bending and battering it, looks a bit rough in spots now.


Now I can get a wrench in there, and counting myself lucky I didn't tap M12,
as the M10 is nearly too fast.
Things as they stand, awaiting third fixing before proceeding with that.

Back onto the VFD enclosure so...
Bolted down

Had space for the thicker plexi glass after all.



The thin stuff lasted just about long enough to get the big blunt cold chisel in
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Got the VFD mounted, and some lines drawn for the window.
Thought I'd leave cutting the hole afterwards.
Should have probably welded from the middle out, but it'll straighten up when closed.

Finishing touches with the window done in situ with a file,
well as good as I can for now, tis a bit cramped for a good look from afar.

Had a go at making a door catch, thought I had something which would suffice,
but it wasn't as simple as it sounded, haha!
I ended up using an allen head bolt and a few washers,
Things are a one or two time deal to close, maybe a lock washer might do if I'm lucky,
as there's no square portion of the bolt thread for the tab to lock onto.

Need to get some longer wire for it's new location, it's about a foot short.
Might splash out and get hard wearing rubber insulated 4 core flavoured H07RN-F for the job.

Got tidied up and ready for the next job, hopefully I'll be able to get some hefty box iron soon.


Where's Wally spot the accessory game above, strictly for the DS version users out there???

Haven't done a mock up of the possible fence solution, but I reckon I found something with legs on the SUVA crown guard manual (downloadable on the Scott&Sargeant, page 32)
I cannot screenshot it, but took a photo of the screen instead.

I'm thinking a bit of 30x60 box iron I have, with a slot in each orientation,
or infact some 80/20 ali extrusion might give the option of an adjustable high/low fence.
Not taken the fence apart yet, to see if I can drill two holes through it,
I must have a proper dig for info before dismantling, as I recall Deema mentioning some things.

Be nice if that might do the job, been too much grit around to be mocking things up like that.
Fingers crossed.
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