Chuck advice please - for Fobco Star

[AJB Temple]

I want to replace the very worn keyed 13mm unknown brand chuck on my Fobco Star pillar drill. This is a morse taper fitting but I am not sure which (if anyone knows, that would help) - probably a No 1. I am not sure how to tell.

Can I fit a keyless chuck? is this even sensible. The current keyed chuck is quite worn.
Do I need Jacobs or some other brand? Any recommendations or advice?

Thanks, AJ

 

[AndyT]

To identify which Morse taper you have, just measure the ends and compare with a chart such as this one - http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Reference/Tapers.php

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks Andy. I know Fobco used at least three different morse tapers.

 

[flh801978]

Fobco' s have a variety of chuck fastenings
If there is a long shaft sticking out from the quill with an extraction hole it will be MT2
If there is a knurled ring above the chuck that you wind down to extract the chuck it will be a j taper actually jarno rather than jacobs ( on the machines i have played with)
This is a short male taper projecting from the quill
Then there's the universal machine which had a myford sized chuck thread to lock cutters in


Ian

 

[AJB Temple]

There is no long shaft and no knurled ring. The MT just taps out I think and the existing chuck come fairly freely off the end of the MT.

 

[flh801978]

Hmmm not seen one like that before...and i have played with lots of fobco stars
Can you post a picture of the quill extended and showing the chuck fitted now?

 

[AJB Temple]

Yes. I will do it tonight when I get home. I might be misleading you!

 

[AJB Temple]

OK, here are the photos of my much loved Fobco.

 

[flh801978]

I'm sure that that one just has a chuck fitted on a short taper on the spindle i.e no morse taper
if you remove the depth stop holder I'm sure there will be a knurled ring with 4 holes in it for a c spanner which if you screw that down will push the chuck off its taper
I say this because theres not enough room for a morse taper up the spindle through the bearings
and theres no ejection slot to put the ejection taper tool in
On some models they did have a mt2 socket but it was on a extended spindle so you lost 5 inches or so above your table

 

[memzey]

Ok - see the collar at the top of the chuck to which the depth adjusted is fixed? Loosen the Alan bolt (you will need an imperial key) and slide it up a bit, with the quill extended down. You will then see a knurled ring with a couple of holes for a c spanner in it. Turn that ring clockwise and it will drift the chuck off of the Jacobs taper arbour. If you don't have the correct sized c spanner to hand not to worry - a pair of mole grips work just as well but do use something like tape or leather to protect the ring from the metal jaws. I'd post pics of mine but I'm a few thousand miles away from it at the moment!

 

[flh801978]

It needs a jacobs no 34 chuck which would be as standard
looking at my original sales catalogue it seems that they were available at some time with a mt1 fitted chuck but i've never seen one only the type 34 and a long mt2 type

 

[flh801978]

Heres scans of the manual it mentions it having a mt1 but i've only seen mt2 ones

 

[AJB Temple]

OK, so you know by now I am not an engineer! Thanks for all of the info. Based on this, if I just get a Jacobs type 34 chuck, will that be a direct replacement?

 

[flh801978]

It should be there's lots on ebay right now some in good condition some not some cheap some eye wateringly high price
If the vendor can remove any arbour that may be fitted you could check the dimensions with yours when you get it off
Or if you want a keyless check the dimensions with that one

 

[AJB Temple]

Is keyless suitable for a pillar drill? The only reason why I am going down this route is that I now find it difficult to tighten the keyed chuck and the jaws are worn. Keyless on my cordless drills works fine, as does my 110v high torque Makita.

 

[memzey]

Personally I prefer a keyed chuck on a pillar drill but if the jaws are mangled then keyed or keyless will be equally problematic. The jaws on my Jacobs chuck are in good condition and I can't imagine a keyless one working any better.

 

[flh801978]

Like Memzey i do Iike keyed chucks on all machines but do have a allbrecht type on my lathe which i use occasionally.
If you find the keyed type hard to do maybe i could make you an extended chuck key 6" long with a t bar on top..?
Ian

 

[AJB Temple]

Hi Ian, that is very kind. When I bought this Fobco, I was aware that it did not have a standard or indeed the best chuck. I always meant to replace it and that time has come. I don't really have a problem with keyed chucks as such (if they are not worn) other than that for some inexplicable reason the tighten direction of turn seems counter-intuitive to me.

Rather than take a punt on used eBay I think I will just stump up for a new Jacobs and new key. I am just trying to make sure I don't buy something that will not fit and that will be properly heavy duty.

 

[AJB Temple]

OK. I have popped the chuck off. It is unbranded and marked 13m/m - JT6. It is a female chuck. Internet searches suggest Jacobs are now all made in China and of suspect quality, with some having a fair degree of run off. So the answer seems to be go for a brand like Rohm, or take a punt on a used US made Jacobs on eBay.

 

[flh801978]

well jacobs are also made in sheffield
thats what was fitted originally
plenty on ebay used and look good
one on a meddings spindle

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meddings-quil ... Sw9~5ZPtXN