Best Router

[MikeJhn]

The automatic lock also applies to the Triton, its a real pain to keep getting down on your knees to turn the router off wind the thing up change bits then get down on your knees again to unlock it, on the Triton you do not have the option of leaving it switched on, the lock will not engage if the switch cover is open.

None of this applies with a lift and a muscle chuck which eliminates the need to lock the spindle, no need to reach below the table except for speed changes.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

Right Axminster did not act on my review on their site, shame on them.

I wonder if it is deliberate, that they only want it to fit routers they sell, to try and increase the chances of people buying a router from them? But then of course it cold work the opposite way and people may not buy the lift of their existing router won't fit.

Terry.

Have a look at the manual, the majority of routers that will fit in the lift are not sold by Axminster, so hardly deliberate, not only that Axminster do not make the lift forget who does, but I have seen them on a Canadian thread.

Mike

 

[Wizard9999]

You should not rely on the wall socket switch. It is not made for that purpose. It will fail.

Buy a NVR switch, and bolt it to the table, then either wire the router straight to it, or if you want to remove the router sometimes fit another 3 pin socket on (or in) the table, controlled by the NVR.
That way when you stop the machine both live and neutral wires are disconnected. The wall socket switch ONLY switches the live wire, leaving neutral still connected. Very dangerous to be handling that router under those conditions as a fault on another machine could put voltage down the neutral wire for long enough to damage you permanently.

Thanks Bob, yes I am sure what I am doing is not by the book and I should have made clear that I would not recommend that approach to others.

In terms of "handling the router" the machine does need to be switched off for that operation. To be honest I keep the router unplugged and only plug it on at the point I am about to use the router and then unplug immediately afterwards. But again, thanks for pointing out the risks I will look into the options you suggest.

Terry.

 

[Wizard9999]

Right Axminster did not act on my review on their site, shame on them.

I wonder if it is deliberate, that they only want it to fit routers they sell, to try and increase the chances of people buying a router from them? But then of course it cold work the opposite way and people may not buy the lift of their existing router won't fit.

Terry.

Have a look at the manual, the majority of routers that will fit in the lift are not sold by Axminster, so hardly deliberate, not only that Axminster do not make the lift forget who does, but I have seen them on a Canadian thread.

Mike

Ah, well if Axminster don't make it that is probably the answer, I had incorrectly thought UKJ was an Axminster product. As you said in an ideal world I would have thought they would want it to be compatible with as many routers as possible.

Terry.

 

[MikeJhn]

The problem is the non standardisation of router base plates, have a look at page 9 of the Lift manual and see how many holes are in the adaptor plate already, to put in any more would compromise its strength IMO.

Mike

Link to manual: http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf

 

[Wizard9999]

The automatic lock also applies to the Triton, its a real pain to keep getting down on your knees to turn the router off wind the thing up change bits then get down on your knees again to unlock it, on the Triton you do not have the option of leaving it switched on, the lock will not engage if the switch cover is open.

None of this applies with a lift and a muscle chuck which eliminates the need to lock the spindle, no need to reach below the table except for speed changes.

Mike

Guess everyone needs to make their own call on how best to spend their hard earned cash, but for me £200* is a lot to pay to save me squatting down every now and again to turn the router on and off. I guess this works for me as a weekend warrior, maybe if you are a pro and use the router day in, day out and time is money you could take a different view. When I get so old I can't squat down to do it I can always get one of the kids to do it for me - with house prices where we live I fully expect them to be living with me until they are forty :lol: .

That aside, could you just fit the muscle chuck without the lift? The you can use a router with inbuilt above the table lifting capacity get the muscle chuck above the table and then change bits without having to duck under the table? If that works it would save both wallet and knees in one go.

Terry.

* I get that by taking the £300 for the lift but subtracting about £100 for a decent router table plate.

 

[Wizard9999]

The problem is the non standardisation of router base plates, have a look at page 9 of the Lift manual and see how many holes are in the adaptor plate already, to put in any more would compromise its strength IMO.

Mike

Link to manual: http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf

OK, but now I am completely lost, if putting more holes in it would compromise it why the comment to Axminster to make it compatible with more routers? Sure I am missing something obvious here.

Terry.

 

[MikeJhn]

I was thinking that Axminster ought to make an alternative plate for more up to date routers.

I am afraid that I have already reached the age when I do not want to keep getting down on my knees, but yes you can fit the Muscle chuch without a lift, but if you have a router with the auto locking spindle it will probably not lift high enough to allow access to the chuck until its locked.

Mike

 

[geoffshep]

The whole thing is a compatibility minefield as far as I can see. There appear to be 2 different sizes of insert/lift plate and not many specify whether they will fit certain routers. There are other plates which look like they would fit the UJK top, but the UJK plates do not take the Triton router, unless (I assume) you are prepared to drill a blank plate yourself and take the chance of not getting exactly centred.

 

[MikeJhn]

The UJK router manual lists over 70 different routers that will fit as standard, the trouble is they do not include some of the popular modern ones available, My Hitachi came with a centerings mandrel and bush to fit the router base, so it would not have been impossible to fit this into the lift, I just did not want to take the risk of compromising the plate, I did try this for size and the new holes could not be positioned in such a manner that they where far enough away from some existing holes for me to be comfortable with the fixing, its all a question of what you are prepared to do vs how much you wish to spend all weighed up against how much time you are prepared to waste/spend on getting it all done, after all its woodworking we are supposed to be carrying out, not metalwork. =D>

Mike

 

[geoffshep]

Yes, I fancy the UJK cast iron top. but that limits the available inserts. I can see that some of the router lifts are great quality but settled on the Triton and got a Kreg plate, planning to make my own table top. But I still like the idea of a cast top to attache to my existing table saw.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Just for the record, the Trend T11 does NOT switch the power on or off when you raise or lower it. The collet only just comes above the top of the plate, but that's easily enough to do above-table changes easily (I do it al the time - can't remember the last time I actually took the router out of the table for that purpose). You do have to reach under to push the spindle lock button, but that's hardly awkward.

And Axminster sell a nice NVR switch with a 13A socket on the side, so you can plug the router into that without altering its power lead.

 

[AJB Temple]

Eric is right as usual. My table has a NVR switch and socket that ensures full electrical isolation of both live and neutral. Spindle lock can be accessed by feel (no peering under the table) and tool changes are easy with the Trend. Probably a lot depends how much use you will give your router. Mine gets used a lot and really if space were not at a premium I would get a spindle moulder. However, if I knew then what I now know, I would not have bought half the tools I have - (I would have bought bigger and better usually).

 

[MikeJhn]

Just to make it absolutly clear the Triton does not switch off and on when you lower or raise it either, you have to do it manually and only then does the spindle lock operate, you must switch the router off and close the switch cover then raise the router to lock the spindle, then you have to open the switch cover to release the spindal lock to allow it to be lowered only then can you switch the router back on, that is three times you have to access the router under the table to change a bit.

The NVR switch is linked too in my post on page one.

Mike

 

[JonnyW]

Firstly thank you guys for your comments. I'm going to take time and read through them properly.

i can't tell you how much all your comments are appreciated.

I'm fixed on buying the UJK raiser as I like the above table adjustment. That's a must. Also, I bought the UJK table and cleverly the insert plate isn't a standard size - I say cleverly for UJK as i have to buy one of their inserts or make my own.

You are right about the routers with the above table adjustments- what's the point in buying that and the UJK router raiser. But as per my non-standered insert plate comment.

I did consider buying the 10mm aluminium UJK insert plate and drilling a hole for the Trend T11 adjustment key, but the key end looks quite large so it would mean I'd have to buy their phenolic insert and use a wood drill bit to cut a hole large enough. I just don't know how I'd cut the hole in an aluminium insert big enough for the Trend key.

However there are routers with an above table adjustment key that has a smaller end that I could cut in he aluminium insert using a metal drill bit.

I'll take time to go over the suggestions and have a look.

Thank you once again.

Jonny

 

[Roughcut]

You shouldn't have any trouble drilling Aluminium with a HSS drill Jonny.

 

[JonnyW]

It's getting a HSS bit big enough for the end of the Trend T11 key.

Jonny

 

[Wizard9999]

Just to make it absolutly clear the Triton does not switch off and on when you lower or raise it either, you have to do it manually and only then does the spindle lock operate, you must switch the router off and close the switch cover then raise the router to lock the spindle, then you have to open the switch cover to release the spindal lock to allow it to be lowered only then can you switch the router back on, that is three times you have to access the router under the table to change a bit.

Mike

Struggling with your maths here. Switch off and close cover, raise collet and make changes, open cover and switch on, lower collet. If it is connected to an NVR (and I guess ideally unplugged as well) why do you need to only switch on as a third step?

As others have said, it really isn't that hard to just reach under the table, once you have done it a few times you don't actually need to look at what you are doing. You're happy to have spent money on a router lift and use it to save you having to reach under the table, that's your choice and it works for you but come on don't over egg the pudding and try and make out it is a more of a hassle than it actually is.

Terry.

 

[Wizard9999]

...However there are routers with an above table adjustment key that has a smaller end that I could cut in he aluminium insert using a metal drill bit...

Jonny

If you were to conclude the Triton would meet your needs I believe the hole required is 13mm. This link shows the process, which I found helpful to an extent. Though I think he put the hole at the back so it would be behind the fence, better to rotate the router 90 degrees and have it in front of the fence IMHO*.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n9pUI_Z00T4

This is with the Incra plate which I also have, but sure the process would be no different with a UJK one.

Terry.

* Sure somebody will be along shortly to point out that putting the adjuster at the front means the switch is a bit further back, whereas the installation shown has it at the front. But as per before even with the switch further back I do not find it hard to access.

 

[JonnyW]

Thanks again.

Terry I agree with the over egging comment. I'll pin my colours to the mast and admit I've never owned a router table before. I've spent hundreds of hours routing things that for safety reasons, should've been done on a table. So it feels like the right time to progress onto a table - also, my wife has a bench seat project for me, that involves Shaker drawer fronts. So a table is a must.

I can't remember who commented, but the router table and all its bits and pieces, personifies personal preference. However it's the compatibility and what you are prepared to do to get it to work, that's the issue. And more importantly, what you're prepared to do whilst working at the machine.

Going under the table to press the spindle lock during bit changing isn't a problem and wouldn't bother me. What is a no brainer is the ability to fine tune bit heights without constantly going under the table. That's why I liked the UJK raiser - very very accurate. And that's why I bought their fine adjuster for the fence. It's the fine tuning of the bit to the work piece I would like to do above the table.

Jonny