New router lift needed/Sauter Vs UJK?

[Dom Brider]

Hi All

Wondering if anyone has anything to say about sauter router lifts?

I have a cast iron router table with a 230 x 306mm insert size. As far as i can tell my options are the UJK lift or the Sauter.

I’ve seen a few grumbles about the chain/system on the UJK which is off putting. Not seen too much about the Sauter and it’s overall performance.

I’ll be using my old Dewalt 625, I don’t really have the budget for a new router or motor. I’ve got a few Axi vouchers and the UJK is on offer, so it’s by far my cheapest option. Even so, I’m a little dubious about the lift itself and am preferring the look of the Sauter.

If anyone has any experience with either lift I’d really appreciate your input

Ta

Dom

 

[Sideways]

The ujk is rubbish with a dw625. The bulk of the lift mechanism means the baseplate of the router stops well below the insert plate and you are forced to use long cutters or add an extension. Neither of those are good choices.
And changing cutters is a pain too because of poor access. I tried that combo and found it ridiculous.

Do you realise that the mof177e / DW625 is one of the better routers for use under a basic insert plate ? It has the plunge lock on one leg and the threaded support on the opposing side of the router body. When upside down the router can be supported on both sides. You can also get a long height adjuster knob for inverted use.
I would just bolt the router to a plate and save your money. To me the idea of using a plunge router inside a router lift is never going to be a good solution.

And for permanent inverted use, take the plunge springs out of the router.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Full details of the system Sideways mentions, here:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/RouterTableAdventure.html








Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Sideways]

Full details ... here:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/RouterTableAdventure.html

That's a great write up

I should also add that @deema and I had a chance to use a Jessem/Incra lift and AUK tools router motor the other day. It's well made and a good combination. Probably the best on the market (except for the crank handle hex key which is cheap and nasty) but eye wateringly expensive.

 

[Dom Brider]

The ujk is rubbish with a dw625. The bulk of the lift mechanism means the baseplate of the router stops well below the insert plate and you are forced to use long cutters or add an extension. Neither of those are good choices.
And changing cutters is a pain too because of poor access. I tried that combo and found it ridiculous.

Do you realise that the mof177e / DW625 is one of the better routers for use under a basic insert plate ? It has the plunge lock on one leg and the threaded support on the opposing side of the router body. When upside down the router can be supported on both sides. You can also get a long height adjuster knob for inverted use.
I would just bolt the router to a plate and save your money. To me the idea of using a plunge router inside a router lift is never going to be a good solution.

And for permanent inverted use, take the plunge springs out of the router.

That’s great info, thanks. That rules out the UJK for me.

I’ve had my 625 in a router table for the past decade and it’s been great really, just a bit fed up with adjusting the height. I could really do with being able to micro adjust it easily. Looks like the raizer is a good low budget option for this.

Out of interest, why do say this is not a good choice to use a collet extension? I’ve used one in mine for years, I don’t love it but seems to do the job. Am I missing something?

 

[Sideways]

Out of interest, why do say this is not a good choice to use a collet extension? I’ve used one in mine for years, I don’t love it but seems to do the job. Am I missing something?

Just poor mechanics. You are increasing the length of the cutter plus spindle beyond the main bearing and increasing the leverage.
You want to keep the stick out as short and rigid as possible.
If you have something that works, don't worry. Bearings are cheap and easily replaced on these machines.

 

[Spectric]

Collet extensions are a way round a problem that is better solved using other methods. If the issue is just access to change cutters then fitting a muscle chuck can solve the problem. The problem gets worse as the cutter gets longer so if using a trimming bit that is two inches of cut and you have say an inch of extension then you are really asking for vibration. Easy way to visualise the problem is to hold someone up by their ankles and then do the same holding them round the waist and one will be far more unstable !

 

[MikeJhn]

@Spectric Seems you changed your mind on the chuck extension as you now use a MusleChuck I see in later posts.

I'v had the UJK lift for ten years without any problems, engineering wise it's better than all the others I have seen as it lifts from all four corners and not just with one or two lift posts, when you analyse the complaints about them it becomes obvious why some have problems, seems most do not use an enclosed extract box to house the router and lift, IMO a very bad idea.

 

[Spectric]

Seems you changed your mind on the chuck extension as you now use a MusleChuck I see in later posts.

The muscle chuck replaces the standard collet and nut arrangement, it does not fit into the existing collet and it's purpose is not to extend but make bit changing easier as you no longer need to use a spanner to hold the shaft, just a hex key.

 

[MikeJhn]

But it does extend the shaft above the existing collet height.

 

[John Brown]

I also have a "Router Raizer". Bought many years ago(20?), in the US, and still fitted to my Hitachi M12. I've no complaints, but I've never used anything else, so can't make any comparisons.

 

[Peter Sefton]

But it does extend the shaft above the existing collet height.

Our MuscleChuck 2E fits the Dewalt 625, Trend T11, Elu 177 and Festool OF2200 and OF1400, it replaces the original chuck and extends it by around 15mm, not enough to cause bearing issues but enough for above table cutter change.



https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/musclechuck-quick-change-chuck-type-2e/

 

[Spectric]

It still remains one piece fixed to the router, it is not a piece that fits into the existing collet so you have, lets call it a join so must be more rigid and less prone to vibration. I have a muscle chuck on my Triton Tra001 and on a Dewalt 625 in a woodrat and neither causes any issues and both make cutter changes very easy, especially in the Triton as it is a five minute job to remove the old spindle lock indent which then makes the switch interlock obsolete and now with a remote switch there is no more fumbling under the table.

 

[MikeJhn]

Hope the remote switch is an NVR?

The interlock and position of the switch is why I sold my Triton Router, the Triton Router table is a terrible design, despite having the above table raising facility the position of the hole to access this is under the fence, bad design as you can't move the router in the mounting plate.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Received another 5 Star review for the MuscleChuck 2E today, it makes cutter changing soooo much easier.

 

[MikeJhn]

Agreed there is no doubt the MuscleChuck is one of the best add on's you can make to a router, even if not in a table.

 

[gyuunyuu]

I have a question as a nonrotuer table person.

A router table can have a fixed plate, or a router lift. Since it is possible to fiddle with the router to set the bit height, and we would not need to change the bit height when the router is On and running, what is the actual benefit of a router lift which is actually quite expensive component?

 

[MikeJhn]

All the setting of height is done above the table instead of fiddling underneath, getting it not quite right and then getting down on you knees again and again to keep trying to get it set up.

 

[HamsterJam]

I used a small plunge router upside down in a table before deciding to get a dedicated router motor and lift. (I got the Rutland unit and mounted it in a piece of kitchen worktop. Pictures In this post)
I find it is far quicker and easier to move the router (and therefore the bit) up and down by winding a handle than it is to adjust the depth stop and then push upwards against the spring in a plunge mechanism. Pushing upwards also has the disadvantage that it tends to lift the router plate so you really need three hands. One on top to hold the plate down, one to plunge and the third to lock off the plunge mechanism.
Some of this can be overcome with some creativity but a router lift is the easiest.