Best Router

[JonnyW]

Hello all. Sorry if I pick open an old wound.

I've bought a UJK router table (cast iron pro baby) and intend on buying their router raiser - it ticks all the boxes.

What's the recommended router for a router table?

I was looking at the Trend T11, however Makita do a 2100w beast.

Any advice as usual, would be appreciated.

Jonny

 

[MikeJhn]

The router you need is one that fits the router raiser, download the manual and look on page 8, I made the mistake of getting a Hitachi M12V2 which does not fit, but the M12VE does, its a good router and has been since I installed it four years ago, I have put a lot of Oak through it since then, one other thing to consider is the dust box that fits under the table and connects to the fence dust extract port, it does make a difference.

When using the router lift, do ensure you unlock the raiser before trying to wind up or down, doing so with the lock still on can loosen off one of the raising pillars, called a "Lead screw" in the manual, that is the only problem I have had in four years.

Mike

Link to manual: http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf

 

[Wizard9999]

I have the big Triton in my table, very happy with it. Not sure how much the Makita is but I know the Trend is a fair bit more money so may be worth looking at the Triton.

Terry.

 

[MikeJhn]

The Triton does not fit the router lift, I know I tried two different models.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

These Makita models will fit: 3620,3612BR,3600B,3612(C),RP0910,1110C as will these Trend models: T3,T4,T5,T5MK2’,T9,T10,T11

The Hitachi M12VE is 2000W and can be obtained for under £150.00.

Mike

 

[Doingupthehouse]

Have the same table and UJK raiser. I have a DeWalt 625 in mine, but the handles have to be removed, and preferably the plunge springs too. You'll also need a collet extension if you use the DeWalt. I have the axminster extension but want to change it for the Xtreme Extension sold by Woodworkers Workshop as it's a slightly awkward-to-reach two spanner job with the Axminster.

Cheers
Simon

 

[Wizard9999]

I made the mistake of getting a Hitachi M12V2 which does not fit, but the M12VE does

So Axminster did not act on your 2014 review.

Jonny

Other than above the table height adjustment what does the close to £300 for the router lift give you? Doesn't the trend T11 give you that option anyway?

Terry.

 

[MikeJhn]

This NVR switch: http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technolo ... tch-101607 does not fit the open legs of the compact table, its designed for the professional table square legs, however this NVR switch : http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-nv ... 1ph-508295 can be modified to fit the open legs, and it cheaper.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

Right Axminster did not act on my review on their site, shame on them.

The Router lift gives you micron adjustment above the level of the fence, a lock on the lift so the router does not slip down with vibration, no fumbling below the table to carry out any adjustments except for speed, when comparing cost factor in the table and router inserts.

As to collet extensions I can recommend this one: http://musclechuck.com/articles/FactSheet.pdf
but don't whatever you do get this one: https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/produ ... e-xtension it is impossible to get it vibration free with even a moderately sized bit.

Mike

 

[Eric The Viking]

Just for the record, the Tritons (IIRC) and the Trend T11 (definitely) do not need any sort of router lift, as the mechanism is built in. Both types will let you do cutter changes from above the table, although with the T11 you do need to reach under to push the spindle lock button, and prepare it by removing some bits for when it's plunging handheld (no tools needed but it's not described in the manual).

I have a T11 and I like it a lot. Spares are readily available and it has plenty of grunt. If you get one, budget for a second collet nut, which lets you keep both 1/2" & 1/4" collets ready to go (12mm & 8mm collets are also available). The DW 625, Trend T10 and equivalent CMT collets also fit (all are clones of the original Elu, with slight variations). Onyly the T11 has the through table height adjuster though. The others need a lift.

The only real caveat is that there needs to be a roughly 18mm hole for the box spanner for above-table height adjustment (12mm, IIRC). make sure this comes well to the front of the table. There are router plate designs out there, some quite pricey, that put this at the back, meaning it's covered by the fence!!! You can still adjust from underneath if you can't get to the top hole, but it's a lot better to have it right from the outset. For things where the cutter height has to be micro-adjusted, such as box joints, I put a hole in any sled, which lines up with the height adjuster roughly when the sled is at its in-use position, so adjustment is easier.

Lots and lots of other routers are available though. Probably best to look at a few in a good tool shop. You may still want to use it handheld, so the usual things like it being comfortable and with the power switch in a sensible place, etc., all still apply.

 

[AJB Temple]

Good comments from Eric TV. I replaced a big Elu (finally wore out) with a Trend T11 specifically because the lift mechanism is built in. It works very well and the router performs flawlessly. I have used it recently to cut some large end tenons (multiple passes to get 3 inch long tenons) in hard oak beam braces 8 inches wide and 3 inches deep and it had no trouble at all (not that I would expect any). I have a powerful Hitachi 1/2" router as well but the Trend is much less hassle for a router table. The height adjustment mechanism is very good - precise, reliable and extremely easy to use.

 

[sunnybob]

I have a makita in my table. There is a screw thread on the base that allows you to do above table adjustments just by drilling one hole in the base plate. The long screw is included with the makita.
After a LOT of adjusting the thread on that wore a little bit, so I have since made my own lift out of a couple scraps of wood and a piece of threaded stud, operated by a rotating handle on the front of the table (also home made) at a zero cost. It aint rocket science. What youre paying for is the shiny anodised aluminium which no one is ever going to see.

 

[galleywood]

I have a DeWalt 625 in my home made router table.
Height adjustment is via the existing threaded bar on the router - the original nut is replaced by a nylock one - a box spanner fitted with a suitable shaped end is used.
I make coarse adjustments with Woodrat plunge bars, which are also used when the router is out of the table.
Maybe mine works because my table is home made thus giving me access to the nut.

 

[SteveF]

I have gone for the big triton, but as yet unused (xmas pressie)
I thought about the lifts but worked on the theory if they fail or start binding it would be a PITA
the triton is a similar beast to the T11 that it has above table adjustment

Steve

 

[Wizard9999]

The Router lift gives you micron adjustment above the level of the fence, a lock on the lift so the router does not slip down with vibration, no fumbling below the table to carry out any adjustments except for speed, when comparing cost factor in the table and router inserts.

Just for the record, the Tritons (IIRC) and the Trend T11 (definitely) do not need any sort of router lift, as the mechanism is built in.

Thanks Mike and Eric, I have never seen a lift in a table so I thought maybe there was some additional functionality but it does seem a bit of an unnecessary expenditure to buy a lift if the router used in the table already provides for above the table operation.

Just to add to Eric's points on the Trend, when changing cutters in the Trend the spindle locks automatically when raised above the table, but to allow it to be raised like this you need to reach under the table to turn the router off and then to turn it back on afterwards (I leave my switched on and simply turn it on and off in use with the switch on the plug socket).

Terry.

 

[Wizard9999]

Right Axminster did not act on my review on their site, shame on them.

I wonder if it is deliberate, that they only want it to fit routers they sell, to try and increase the chances of people buying a router from them? But then of course it cold work the opposite way and people may not buy the lift of their existing router won't fit.

Terry.

 

[DiscoStu]

I have the Triton TRA001 in my table and use the adjustments on that from above. It works well and there is no need to hold anything underneath in order to lock the spindle. You do have to switch it off though before you can raise it high enough to change bits.

Overall I'm very pleased with it. It's very powerful, smooth and works well. Although we have gone off topic as originally this was about the Axminster lift but with the Triton, Trend T11 and some others you don't need a lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattRoberts]

The Triton TRA001 does indeed come with a lift mechanism. It also locks the spindle when it's raised fully, allowing you to change the bit easily.

The only issue is that the power button can't be left on (and the power remotely controlled), as it stops the router being raised fully. Not a massive issue, you just need to reach under the table to turn it on or off

 

[Wizard9999]

The Triton TRA001 does indeed come with a lift mechanism. It also locks the spindle when it's raised fully, allowing you to change the bit easily.

The only issue is that the power button can't be left on (and the power remotely controlled), as it stops the router being raised fully. Not a massive issue, you just need to reach under the table to turn it on or off

As per my post above, I leave it switched on then use the plug socket switch as the on off for routing, that way I only have to reach under to switch the router off when I want to change a cutter.

But presumably even if using a router lift there is a need to reach under the table to lock the spindle for cutter changes. Or is there a lift / router combo that allows total above the table operation with no need to reach below the table for any reason?

Terry.

 

[sunnybob]

You should not rely on the wall socket switch. It is not made for that purpose. It will fail.

Buy a NVR switch, and bolt it to the table, then either wire the router straight to it, or if you want to remove the router sometimes fit another 3 pin socket on (or in) the table, controlled by the NVR.
That way when you stop the machine both live and neutral wires are disconnected. The wall socket switch ONLY switches the live wire, leaving neutral still connected. Very dangerous to be handling that router under those conditions as a fault on another machine could put voltage down the neutral wire for long enough to damage you permanently.