Bandsaw Problem.

[shedhead]

I have an Axminster AWBS bandsaw. It has started to cause me problems with cutting. When i try to cut a straight line i have noticed that the blade starts to bend a little. By the time i have got half way through the cut the speed starts to slow, and i can smell burning. I have had to back up the blade in the cut as i can not continue and the cut has wandered so far off the straight.

I have checked the tension of the blade and the position of the guides. They all seem to be in place. I have also kept the blade guide about 10mm above the cutting height for blade support.

Could this problem be just that the blade needs replaced. I have not done a great deal of cutting on the bandsaw in the 10 months i have had it. Could it just need replaced.

 

[stevebuk]

hi dermot
most of the time when the bandsaw blade veers off line is because its getting too hot and flexing, it gets to hot because the feed rate you are using is too quick, or the blade could be blunt.
I would be tempted to get a new blade.

 

[shedhead]

Hi Steve
Thanks for your quick answer. I will have a go with a new blade tomorrow, and see what happens. When you sy the fed rate is to quick, do you mean that i am pushing on the wood too much.

 

[stevebuk]

yes dermot, i have done it before, trying to push hard and get the wood through quicker, but it the end it ruins the wood because of the distortion with the blade.
Let us know how you get on, and get a blade thats right for what you are doing.

 

[eddie_t]

Hi Dermot,

You hit the nail on the head with change the blade, buy a decent one, your machine will perform much better (Axminster will only supply a chinese quality blade, sorry did i mention quality).

Also spend a bit of time looking at the blade guide setup, a bit of time setting this right will make a difference.

Hope this helps,

Eddie.

P.S. If your struggling to find a blade try K.R.Saws in coventry ask for lynn, they only supply german quality blades, you might have to order 3 or so, but i think you can mix and match.

The reason i recommend them is when i was working in the aluminium industry, i had various machines for cutting plate and bar upto 2 foot thick (No mean feat) they suggested blades and brought them personally
with a selection of pitches and rakes (And for the tough stuff they even had a custom grind sent from germany for us) so i can't recommend them enough.

 

[devonwoody]

did a google on k r saws.

http://www.krsaws.co.uk/

 

[Paul.J]

Depends on what type of blade you are using Dermot,and what you were cutting,and how you have the saw set up.
As said get good quality blades,the Axcalibur blades are pretty good,and the amount of teeth per inch TPI,also matters.
Make sure your bed is set at 90 degrees to the blade,if it isn't this will cause binding when trying to cut straight.
What were yiu trying to cut :?:
Also have a look at the Wood Whisperer.He does a good how to,for setting up a Bandsaw.

Here it is Dermot.

 

[penman]

I get my blades from Stiles and bates http://www.stilesandbates.co.uk/CMS/web ... 918579739D
and have never had any problems with them.

Malcolm

 

[jpt]

The other question is have you been using it to cut circles?

If you have this will ruin a blade very quickly, when cutting curves and circles the pressure is on one side of the teeth and can ruin the set of the teeth. So the next time you want to cut a straight line you will find the blade goes anywhere except a straight line.

If you want to cut your blanks into perfect circles keep a seperate blade for doing this. I dont bother anymore I just cut the corners off and put it on the lathe which makes it perfectly round very easily.

john

 

[shedhead]

Hi
Thanks to all for help given. When i bought the saw from Axminster i bought 3 assorted blade sizes. Guess i only bought 3 x the trouble.
As for cutting circles. Yes i got some large spalted beech a few weeks ago. I cut them into discs to aid seasoning.
I think i know where i have gone wrong.

I am not to sure what i am doing when changing a blade. I think that i have to possition the blade guides both side and back with a pound note.

I think i read somewhere that when setting guides use paper money then pull it out when blade guides are in place??????????

Or have i was i dreaming this!!!!

Dermot.

 

[shedhead]

PauL
l have now just noticed your recommendation Woodwhisperer.
I have just watched and learnt a lot.

Dermot.

 

[OPJ]

Another thought - how thick is the wood you are cutting and, is it seasoned?

If there are any stresses within the timber (more likely with thicker, wider or boards/blanks with a higher moisture content) then the kerf you've sawn can close up on the back of the blade and cause it to 'bind', among other things similar to what you have described.

Cut several wedges in advance and store them close to your bandsaw. All you need to do is stop when it starts to struggle and drive one or two wedges in to the kerf to keep it open. With a bandsaw, there's no risk of kickback (unlike a table saw).

 

[shedhead]

I have been cutting semi seasoned branch wood around 4 inch thick max. What i noticed is at the end of the cut the last few mm of wood would snap as if under pressure. I think you might be on to the problem Olly

Dermot.

 

[shedhead]

Just an update on Bandsaw.
Thanks to all that helped me along with the saw problem. After all it was only a simple blade change, but heck i could not have done this without all the advise given to me.

The fact that that blade did not cut straight happened so quick made me think that there was something else happening to the saw.
Anyway thanks again. I have changed the blade and she is working great again.