@Doug71 is correct about the pins holding the two tables in a fixed position on one side. I have no idea why the manufacturers did this, but the pins render the adjustment hardware for that side useless, and the two bolts in each table can be removed without affecting the performance of the machine.
Your AW106PT appears to be from the same factory as my former Holzmann, or at least the assembly lines source components from the same foundry. Here is the thread where I documented the fun I had with my P/T before selling it and buying the SCM F30G just in case it helps you on your fun-filled journey.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/holzmann-hob260nl-p-t-issues.134325/
Here is a screen shot from your image showing the two pins that need to be removed. On my Holzmann, two of the pins came out easily, but two had to be drilled. Once the pins are removed, the tables can be fully adjusted.
With regards to the setup, I never paid much attention to the relationship of the tables to the floor, I adjusted the four leveling feet so the machine was not obviously leaning and didn't rock on any corner. The fun begins with setting the tables and knives once you are happy with the placement of the machine.
I recommend identifying the one critical component that cannot be adjusted, moved, or fettled and use that item as the reference for all other settings. In the case of these machines, this is the cutter block. Assuming the bearings are in good order, it will not move in the chassis, so it is the reference point for all other adjustments.
Here is the order I recommend after removing all of the knives from the cutter block and removing the four pins identified above:
1. Set the height and angle of the outfeed table. I think the recommended height above the cutter block is 1mm, but this should be in the manual. You will have four points to adjust, and each adjustment affects the other three. Once you are happy with the outfeed table, you will not be touching it again.
2. Set the infeed table to its highest position and start the same four-corner adjustment procedure to ensure it is level and coplanar with outfeed table.
3. Set the thicknesser table so it is level with the bottom of the cutter block. The front to back angle of the table doesn't matter, but the side to side angle does. You should have four grub screws in the base of the thicknesser pedestal to set the angle. As with the planer tables, each corner adjustment affects the other corners, so make little adjustments until you are satisfied.
4. Insert the knives into the cutter block and adjust them to the correct height and ensure they are parallel to the outfeed table. This is also a good time to ensure the knives don't hit either of the planer tables.
There are different schools of thought on the correct way to do this, so you can do your own research and determine what works best for you. Since my machine had three knives, instead of the more common two knives, I set the blade height so it was as close to exactly the height of the outfeed table as I could get it.
The popular method for two-knife cutter blocks is to set the knives a little proud of the outfeed table because the knives are making only two cuts in the wood with each rotation of the cutter head. I never bought into this, because the two and three-knife cutter heads rotate much faster than I push the wood over it, so I don't have to worry about any scalloping in the surface.
