adding casters to a startrite 275 table saw

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3 Jul 2019
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ive only just got this saw and my question is am i rite in thinking .
ive managed to lift the saw and i put wooden block underneath the saw
there are 1 hole one each corner of the saw i have felt under and i can feel a bracket can i just fit casters to the bottom .
any help would be great as im going to use the saw in my shed and i will need to move it about cheers
Hi, bad connection here at the moment.


The base would be better if the wheels were placed lengthwise as far apart as possible.
Carl Holmgren design principal

Here's my thoughts on what you've just suggested.



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Another point is the pressed steel base is too flimsy to be wheeling around, and you risk damage not only to yourself,
but to the machine aswell, as the trunnion is mounted onto the big biscuit tin.
If you had the DS275, which is the same, but has a sliding table attachment, you would see that the sliding table would not line up with the saw top, if it's on unlevel ground.
i will not be doing that then ill look about for some angle iron and get a frame welded up thanks tom
ive watched one of those videos very very good some great advice there was
I'd look at pallet trucks. If you can't get one low enough fix some permanent blocks under corners of the saw.
Can then use it to move all other machines etc.
The reason i need to move this saw is im putting it in my shed you see .
i thought get in on wheels then i can move it easy you see as im limited for room but i can manage if it can be moved . there is 1inch boards on the floor and ive put plywood on the top so so easy move items heavy .
duncs":3jlyh9av said:
did you make those bases your self tom they look just the job
Aye, I've made bases up for a few machines.
I like engineering designs of different kinds, and think this one has the best principles for a tablesaw. Thanks for the inspiration Carl :D
This one could be improved a few ways...
Apart from a spring catch, what I should have done ( I used a gravity catch for lack of a better word),
I played it safe making the left axle closer to the middle than it needed to be, for fear of the hidden wheel hitting against the dust chute, and it is kind of awkward to move, but so is the other saw I've been restoring, what's sitting on a regular trolley.
I have not measured the castors on the trolley, to see if this plays a role.

The Magic tablesaw is heavier by about 50kgs and this could be the reason, although
I could nearly dance with my 300kg bandsaw on 75mm castors, well it needs a bit of a rugby scrum low push to get started, but easy once it gets going.
Bob Minchin's solution made up from 40, 50, and 60mm box metal :D

One thing about these castors, I think they are 50mm ones, definitely not 75mm,
Is that they are difficult to move out of the workshop, just as I planned.
If there are bumps, chips of wood and such, it won't roll over them, and stop dead.

I put large shopping trolley sized wheels on a smaller bandsaw, which has the same design as Record Power, and another brand called "I wood like" on their similar sized bandsaws.
This is easy to move about anywhere and everywhere, but too tall for the design I wanted, and I wouldn't want a tripping hazard on a cabinet style tablesaw, if I were to put them outside of the cabinet.

ive found some anle iron . What i intend to do is lift the saw in my shed 1st hahaha
ive took the 3phase motor off belts etc cleaned up greased to stop it squeeking .
im going to alter it to single phase using a converter .
once lifted in my shed im going draw round the saw with a pensil and i can see in side now to look where to put the casters . i actually thought have the angle iron about 2inch longer than the saw and attach casters then would be a lille longer for more stability i thought tom
Do you have a 16amp receptacle Duncs?
If you don't have, the max you can go is 2hp, with a 13a plug, but for probably less money
you can hook up a VFD / inverter, and run your motor, which would be easier on your supply
ie your 13a fuses for the machine, and possibly light bulbs.
Keep an eye for wires heating up, whatever motor you choose anyways.

You can easily run your 3hp 3 phase motor with less hassle supply wise, and probably cheaper
in every aspect of life regarding your wallet.


Motor was only taken out from the machine, as the shaft on it was damaged before I had it..

I have a huanyang VFD on my 3hp 3 phase Startrite 275, and have less hassle with it, than my 2hp single phase motor on the drill..which costs about a hundred quid, you can get them cheaper, providing you have patience, or can get a rough guide on the inverters parameters ie basic motor commands.
It's simple to understand for someone with absolutely no knowledge of electrical work.
I have wrote extensive articles on this, I'll see if I can dig them up.

Found a few, but there are plenty of Startrite 275 VFD threads






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Sorry I read your post incorrectly...
I was thinking you were going to swap the motor out in favour of a single
phase one.
Whilst the motor is out of the machine, it's probably a good idea to give it a clean.
The terminal housing was packed full with sawdust on my Startrite's Leroy Somer motor.
Would have made a good picture, as it retained the shape of the inners like a sand castle.

If you disassemble any induction motor to clean them out...
it's a good idea to mark a line the length of the motor with a pencil, to aid reassembly again.
I made the mobile base larger to accommodate the lifting castor mechanism, as I don't like tripping hazards, the table overhangs a bit anyways so it's not wasted space.
The base is extending past the table extension on the right, to accommodate the VFD cabinet/overhead guard post, and maybe for extra support if I make use of it for a router table.
Not for stability,
As a side note, the other saw is on a close fitting trolley with 75mm castors, and is very stable.
And this is sitting very tall off the ground, too high for use if it were to be setup.

If you don't mean stability, and are concerned about ease of moving regarding changing directions
I can't know for sure, but I'd like to find out if it would work better...
If I I had made the axle on the base closer to the edge, would the weight be disturbed more in
one direction making it predictable or choose a definite path, as it seems to fight itself a bit.
It could just be all down to the size of the castors being 50mm
The other saw is difficult to get going also, but is more predictable.
I don't have much experience with moving the Startrite though, as its been in that spot since.
what ive done to day was take the saw table top off was quite easy makes it a lot easier to lift into my shed . ive took the motor off and gave it a good clean and was easy lifting the base in the shed on my own .
ive cut angle iron ready to get welded then fit casters .
im looking at this its £95.00 on ebay its a SPEED CONTROL 2.2KW 3HP 220V VARIABLE FREQUENCY DRIVE INVERTER VFD 10A CE NEW ive been told it will work my 3hp 2.2kw motor .
question is what about dust will it be ok as i was looking at another company invertec optidrive i got the link for the company off here wow was near £300.00 for one of those .
what i want to do is run it off a 13amp plug
any one any suggestions link etc would be great
ive learnt a lot off this forum theres so many help full people who have the same saw
id be lost with out the help ive had so far off peple thank you every one
I hope someone will comment on this.
Regarding a "dual voltage" motor on the Startrite, if its the same as mine?
I'm not sure if there is any advantage, one way or another,
to get a 380v out VFD?

Other than, you can probably get a VFD suited to use on dual voltage motors cheaper.

Never seen that VFD, so the parameters might take a small bit of figuring out, we can help you with that if you need it, if you can show us the parameter guide.
For instance the Huanyang has over a hundred parameters in the book, although you only have to program in a few, its important that you must set them correctly.

If you study the Huanyang parameters for your saw, (it's in the links),
It probably has the most amount of parameters, compared to any other of the VFD's, that you can enter into a motor for a tablesaw.

Important or not, features that I like, not sure if yours has either of these!...
is the auto shutoff fan on the isacon/askpower drive, but this doesn't have... (I don't think, unless I'm unlucky) a relay, so you have to buy one for a fiver or so.

The relay is for a push button start button, rather than using a toggle switch.
You can still wire in a stop mushroom style, push twistlock button, but it is, I'm sure definitely frowned upon, as when you release the twist lock, it starts the machine too!
You need to flip the toggle switch for safety, and its just confusing and dangerous for random folk in your workshop, that do not know this!

You can forget all of this, and just use a toggle switch for any VFD, but having to flip off a toggle switch on a tablesaw is probably not the safest thing in the world.
Carl Holmgren, has howerer made an off switch, paddle style. which uses a toggle switch,
so it can be done.

I might be tempted to get the cheapest VFD / inverter, that I can find, for my other machine,
but then I'd have to (not really though :lol: )
Make a mobile base for mounting the inverter to.
Saying this, and I haven't even bought a cross cut blade for my Startrite (hammer)

No Tom!... leave that till effen winter
I just can't leave that saw alone :)

hi just copied this and this is what it say mate
Technical Paramer:

1.Inpute voltage:220V±15%(we also stock 110V and 380V+/-15%,please contact us for item stock)

2.Output voltage:220VAC±15%(analogous to input voltage)

3.Input Frequency:48-63HZ

4.Outpute Frequency:0-400HZ

5.Inpute phase:1 phase or 3 phase
the motor on my 3phase saw is 3hp 2.2kw v 220-240/380-415 A thats what on the plate on the motor
im new to all this and the help is brilliant off people
just been looking at the ones you mentioned this one is £95.00
3HP 10A 220V 2.2KW Variable Frequency Drive VFD Huanyang Inverter High Speed

This VFD can be used for constant torque loads(such as hard starting:Air conpressor,HVAC units) and variable torque loads(such as pumps,fans,etc) It can be used as a motor speed control and a phase converter.The inpute for this VFD is 1 or 3 phase as you like.You can control different speed when you use this VFD.Most of our customers bought this VFD from us to use for:Lathes,Mill,car Hoists,Pumps&conveyors,etc.This item use sine wave PWN(SPWM) for the control system and performace excellently.

Technical Parameter
1.Input voltage: 220V±15%(we also stock 110V and 380V+/-15%,please contact us for item stock)
2.Output voltage: 220VAC±15%(analogous to input voltage)
3.Input Frequency: 48-63HZ
4.Output Frequency: 0-400HZ
5.Input phase: 1 phase or 3 phase
6.Output phase: 3 phase
7.Warranty: 1 year
They're all similar enough, if you can program them, buy a relay... which I never have done,
or make the Carl Holmgren thing for the toggle switch.
The only thing with the Huanyang is, it doesn't have the auto shutoff fan thing...
Provided it is actually a fake Huanyang....
(supposedly the "real ones" have the parts for a braking resistor)...
But you won't need a braking resistor anyways, as the arbor nut could loosen on a Startrite 275.
I have had the relay fail on a "supposedly fake" Huanyang.

It could be an Isacon/Askpower drive that you get, which has the auto fan thing
same tech as the ones Jack Forsberg shows, demo in this video, at 17mins
yes mate was just looking and on one of the pictures it shows genuine one and a fake one
Nice options available in the control software. Soft start, dynamic braking and speed adjustments with limits. when i get one im wondering the best place to mount it. i seen the one where its attached to the actual saw but that is the more expensive one i think it all enclosed.
its the saw dust im wondering about as you dont want saw dust getting in side the vfd .
They all have soft start which is fully controllable...i.e
Decide when programing parameters, how many seconds to get motor up to full speed.
and braking for your needs aswell.
Your power supply will dictate to you, what you like best, especially since your using a household plug like me, but I'd also consider the softer starting and stopping an advantage, as its easier going on parts, especially a cheap VFD.
Make a box for the VFD as in threads.
Regarding your mobile base and your last question
I should have learned cold forming for the sheet metal VFD cabinet

A suitable VFD will cost less than a hundred squid.
Making a tin box to protect it from dust is the most difficult part of it, providing you get a brand of VFD/inverter that is familiar with us, so you can enter the values of your motor correctly, like the motor HP and running speed.
I like the isacon/askpower VFD's, as there's an auto shutoff for the cooling fan when not in use.
Folks here to help you every step of the way with understanding and hooking it up, and it is mutually agreed on, as in nobody has differing/conflicting opinions on setting them up, so you can be assured on how to do this the right way only.
There's only the three wires in from the wall, that being....
Live, neutral and earth to the VFD input, and four for the motor output, three hots and an earth, both earths are paired together to go in the same earth terminal, or joined/bolted to the VFD sheet metal box, with another single earth wire stacked onto the two, so a single earth wire can fit into the VFD terminal (some VFD terminals are a tight space to try and get two wires into)

The only dangers to YOU being.... not waiting for the capacitors to drain out before going near these power terminals!...

The only danger to the motor/VFD is not entering the correct values for your motor, and it runs on factory settings, possibly EIGHT times the speed of what it should be running, which would cook your motor.

Do not hit that green button if your VFD is not setup correctly, and do
the parameter reset before entering your parameters.

Don't install a plug between motor and VFD as this can fry the VFD also, if disconnected while running!


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